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Just had builder tell me crank was pushed forward causing a spun bearing. Under 1k mile new motor, did torque tube rebuild also, and used billet couplers.. wondering if anyone else has had this issue, or any issue while swapping to billet couplers. Car made no noise. No vibration.
Just had builder tell me crank was pushed forward causing a spun bearing. Under 1k mile new motor, did torque tube rebuild also, and used billet couplers.. wondering if anyone else has had this issue, or any issue while swapping to billet couplers. Car made no noise. No vibration.
Just had builder tell me crank was pushed forward causing a spun bearing. Under 1k mile new motor, did torque tube rebuild also, and used billet couplers.. wondering if anyone else has had this issue, or any issue while swapping to billet couplers. Car made no noise. No vibration.
Bearing Oil starved, bent crank, twisted block with mains not tram to each other, or squish too tight between mains to crank Journal.
Thrust main bearing is on the center cap to control crank fore/aft in the first place, and if building is blaming problem on crank thrust that spun a bearing, then it should have been the center main cap that had the problems.
So pull center cap, since if crank was able to walk that far past spec for forward or aft movement in the firs place, then sides of center main bearing should be total *****, if crank was in spec to begin with.
And back to oil starved, if old motor blew, and you did not replace the cooler and lines, parts of the motor could have still been in them, broke free to either end up in bearing, or to cause oil pump vavle to stick open, to drop pressure.
So if new oil cooler and lines to weed out old debris into the new motor, and motor has problems this fast with normal break in, then builder missed checks in the build that cause the problem in the first place. But no builder is going to warrenty a race motor, since just to may ways for owner to blow it up to start with instead.
Spun bearing
