Well if some of your remember I had installed a brand new factory clutch and after a 5 minute drive I had zero pedal resistance and clutch would not disengage. Well after a bunch of back and forth with vendors and manufacturers due to “iffy part numbers” I ended up getting a refund and yanking the whole clutch kit out.. told the shop to just go ahead and order the factory replacement from where ever they normally get theirs.. we’ll the new clutch was installed very next day .. they test drive it for 20 minutes and called it done. I picked up the car last night , everything worked fine all the way home ( 1hr away), parked it in front of my house so I could open the gates. Came back out about 5 minutes later and when I turned on the car the clutch would not disengage. Pedal has resistance , feels a little spongy but not that bad and I literally have to use two hands to get it in gear while the car is running.. shop is sending a tow truck to pick it up in the morning however they already have started to say they have never seen anything like this happen.. has anyone run into this issue before ?

specs: 600hp ,568tq
GM/LUK clutch kit
tick master cylinder w/ bleeder

extra info .. before all this the car came with a worn out McLeod clutch with lightweight flywheel. But it worked , I just didn’t like the feel of the very little effort to disengage/engage clutch at the top of the pedal.

 

My guess, either master was not adjusted correctly, with the correct amount of no restaince at top of pedal push, and this caused the slave to end up over throwing the TB forward too far to bend the hell ouf of the pressure plate release fingers, or you have a leak in the remote bleeder system that is allowing air to come in to the system, with the slave not being throw far enough to correctly disengage the clutch instead.

here is how the tick C^ master cylinder is adjusted, since it cylinder is id wider than the oem unit, and will push more fluid to the slave is its not installed and adjusted correctly.
https://www.tickperformance.com/cont...structions.pdf

As for remove bleeder, could be a problem with the way it was installed on the slave to cause a leak there, or father up its line instead.

 

Finally the horror is over . Shenanigans with the 2nd clutch have been proven to be air in the slave .. it was bled again with the remote bleeder and all is good now .. thanks for the input