Billet couplers
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Billet couplers
All you 6l80 guys that have gone to billet couplers, did you have any issues? Was told, torque tube would need to be adjusted, but can not find any info on procedure. I believe this was the issue that caused my crank to be pushed forward. Would like to hear if any of u guys have had this, or any problems after the couplers
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Joined: Jul 2021
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All you 6l80 guys that have gone to billet couplers, did you have any issues? Was told, torque tube would need to be adjusted, but can not find any info on procedure. I believe this was the issue that caused my crank to be pushed forward. Would like to hear if any of u guys have had this, or any problems after the couplers
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Race Director
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Road coursing side of the works (M6 trans), but the problem with running even the 6 shooter couplings (solid would be much worse),
Is not enough damping for the bolts when you end up jumping the inner apex curb on the way in, or the way out over and over again, and can cause the rear coupling bolts to snap from the torque jarring when the tires grab again under load.
So for this side of the math, the polys work better, since the do have the extra damping to absorb the torque jarring during such, to prevent the rear coupling bolts from snapping when you are running a M6 trans.
As for couplings themselves, since even the oem couplings have inner sleeves that holds the yokes to the same point for the connections, there is not difference between solid or oems when it comes to in/out of the drive line from the outside of both couplings, since that is always held at a constant instead. The only thing that the non solid couplings do, is allow for dampening on rotation between the end yoke mounting points (and as stated, to prevent the bolts from impact shearing in the first place).
Is not enough damping for the bolts when you end up jumping the inner apex curb on the way in, or the way out over and over again, and can cause the rear coupling bolts to snap from the torque jarring when the tires grab again under load.
So for this side of the math, the polys work better, since the do have the extra damping to absorb the torque jarring during such, to prevent the rear coupling bolts from snapping when you are running a M6 trans.
As for couplings themselves, since even the oem couplings have inner sleeves that holds the yokes to the same point for the connections, there is not difference between solid or oems when it comes to in/out of the drive line from the outside of both couplings, since that is always held at a constant instead. The only thing that the non solid couplings do, is allow for dampening on rotation between the end yoke mounting points (and as stated, to prevent the bolts from impact shearing in the first place).
