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Default Lost Power
I changed the head unit in my 05 C6. Direct bolt in unit. No wire cutting. when I went to hit the ignition to check it out, I had no power to the dashboard. No ignition, door lock, power windows, door switches, instrument panel, etc. I have dome lights, horn, fuel door release, power seats, steering column moves in and out. Replaced the battery as an internet suggestion. Didn't change anything. Re-installed the factory head unit and nothing changed. Any suggestions?
When you changed the HU did you disconnect the battery first ??...if not I'd look for a blown fuse possibly...if you have a 12 volt test light start checking fuses and if you can get the ignition into RUN even better...check the underhood and IP fuses...if the test light only illuminates on one fuse test point the fuse is blown or you can simply remove them and check.
When you changed the HU did you disconnect the battery first ??...if not I'd like for a blown fuse possibly...if you have a 12 volt test light start checking fuses and if you can get the ignition into RUN even better...check the underhood and IP fuses...if the test light only illuminates on one fuse test point the fuse is blown or you can simply remove them and check.
I will double check. I checked every fuse and relay under the hood. Every fuse is good with a multimeter. Every relay has between 79-89 ohms resistance. 9v battery switches every relay.
I looked at power and grounds for your 05 in Service Info and see no common circuit which is not working properly affecting everything you see…I’ll have to look further…maybe see what else is NOT working…I’ll be changing out my newly purchased HU tomorrow or the next day and I’ll see what I may find…do you have a decent scan tool and not a code reader where you may be able to see what modules in the car that you can’t communicate with ??…and by no power to the “dashboard” do you mean the instrument panel is completely dead ??…and by “no ignition” I’m assuming it’s a no start…can you enter ACCY mode or RUN MODE…no lights on the start switch ??…with electrical it’s good to be very specific…and when you said “etc” it’s good to know what the “etc” are that are inoperable.
As an experiment I “took out” my serial data bus by applying 12 volts (short to power) to pin 2 on the DLC which is the Class 2 Serial Data Bus…the bus is “fault tolerant” so no modules were harmed in this experiment…LOL !!…I had no ignition, no IPC, radio, power windows, and door switch inop but the windows would index…if you have a voltmeter access the DLC (where your scan tool connects to) and see if you have 12 volts at pin 2…you can use pins 4 or 5 as grounds for your voltmeter…to see if the bus is “shorted to ground” use your ohm meter and with the battery disconnected see what resistance you have between pin 2 and 4…should be more than 350 ohms but usually way more…I have over 4000 ohms on mine which is a good data bus…just a guess here…either one will cause what you are seeing…if you have the radio wiring accessible see if you have 12 volts on the light blue wire on pin 15 shown below or check for a short to ground there also…might be easier to check there than at the DLC…see what happens with that connector unplugged…were you using a PAC wiring interface harness ??…and yes my seats and fuel door work.
Was pin 2 checked with the battery connected ??…I should have made that clear…on a good class 2 you should see the voltage fluctuate as in the video below…to check for a “short to ground” is when the battery should be disconnected because you are using a ohm meter.
Was pin 2 checked with the battery connected and start switch in RUN ??…I should have made that clear…on a good class 2 you should see the voltage fluctuate as in the video below…to check for a “short to ground” is when the battery should be disconnected because you are using a ohm meter.
the ignition switch doesn’t switch to anything. The green light is on when the dome lights are on. That’s all that happens.
the ignition switch doesn’t switch to anything. The green light is on when the dome lights are on. That’s all that happens.
Forgot about the ignition not working…can you take 2 pictures of what you’re seeing voltage and resistance wise…do you have a scan tool ??…with the radio harness disconnected see if all your symptoms go away.
At least you have good multimeter and it’s true RMS !!…mine isn’t true RMS !!…no short to ground between 2 and 4…that’s good !!…you have a voltage picture ??
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Lost Power
