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You ALWAYS want to use an OEM sensor or any sensor on the car for that matter even if it means buying it from a dealership…need to know the year as you can see the OE part numbers are different from say an 07 (15904068) and an 08 (15865791).
You ALWAYS want to use an OEM sensor or any sensor on the car for that matter even if it means buying it from a dealership…need to know the year as you can see the OE part numbers are different from say an 07 (15904068) and an 08 (15865791).
Thanks! The vette is an 06 base. I was looking at the delfi (sp) but not sure if i can find the correct one. I believe that is what is currently installed, but could be wrong. I saw Amazon carries it, but won't deliver it to Kalifornia for some reason.
Thanks! The vette is an 06 base. I was looking at the delfi (sp) but not sure if i can find the correct one. I believe that is what is currently installed, but could be wrong. I saw Amazon carries it, but won't deliver it to Kalifornia for some reason.
You DON’T want to be ordering a MAF sensor off Amazon…only EBay is worse !!…call your dealership !!...and you never go by what’s installed…some idiot may have installed the wrong one previously !!
My Alldata doesn’t show the OEM part number for an 06…call your local dealership with the VIN and they will tell you…why are you replacing it ???
I keep getting a lean condition. Cleared the codes a few times, checked for air leaks, and cleaned the sensors with maf cleaner and the codes eventually return. O2 sensors seem to be working so I am looking to replace to maf thinking that's the issue.
You DON’T want to be ordering a MAF sensor off Amazon…only EBay is worse !!…call your dealership !!...and you never go by what’s installed…some idiot may have installed the wrong one previously !!
I would rather not call my local dealer, they are not very good and i have had quality issues with them. Is there a parts store on line that sells oem that you could recommend?
I keep getting a lean condition. Cleared the codes a few times, checked for air leaks, and cleaned the sensors with maf cleaner and the codes eventually return. O2 sensors seem to be working so I am looking to replace to maf thinking that's the issue.
If you are getting lean codes (P0171 and 0174) it can be a few things so don’t start shotgunning parts…if you have your scan tool look at your long term fuel trims at idle…now raise the RPM to about 3000 RPM…if the short terms go negative and the long terms slowly decrease you have a vacuum leak…this is engine diagnostics 101…if fuel trims are low but INCREASE as you raise the RPM you have either a dirty MAF or a fuel delivery issue like a weak fuel pump…dirty MAF sensors usually manifest itself as fuel trims that are negative at idle but increase as RPM’s are increased…if it is a vacuum leak you can use Brake Kleen trying this when the engine is cooler (fire risk) and spray about the intake runners and intake bellows downstream of the MAF and if the fuel trims go NEGATIVE you found your leak…you can squeeze the brake booster hose because that can be an issue…I prefer using propane or my smoke machine to accurately diagnose this.
I would rather not call my local dealer, they are not very good and i have had quality issues with them. Is there a parts store on line that sells oem that you could recommend?
You can try Rock Auto or my preference is NAPA if I’m working on someone’s car but the dealership doesn’t have that part…NAPA’s counter people are better trained than a Pep Boys or Auto Zone !!
If you are getting lean codes (P0171 and 0174) it can be a few things so don’t start shotgunning parts…if you have your scan tool look at your long term fuel trims at idle…now raise the RPM to about 3000 RPM…if the short terms go negative and the long terms slowly decrease you have a vacuum leak…this is engine diagnostics 101…if fuel trims are low but INCREASE as you raise the RPM you have either a dirty MAF or a fuel delivery issue like a weak fuel pump…dirty MAF sensors usually manifest itself as fuel trims that are negative at idle but increase as RPM’s are increased…if it is a vacuum leak you can use Brake Kleen trying this when the engine is cooler (fire risk) and spray about the intake runners and intake bellows downstream of the MAF and if the fuel trims go NEGATIVE you found your leak…you can squeeze the brake booster hose because that can be an issue…I prefer using propane or my smoke machine to accurately diagnose this.
That's great advice, thank you for explaining in some detail what to test and look for.
I recently had a simular problem with my '08. I cleaned the sensor with spray cleaner and no code for 1400 miles. Sprayed again, while on a trip and it got me home (600+ mile) without a code. I bought a new GM oem replacement from RockAuto for $66. It arrived in 3 days. AutoZone wanted $99 for the same part.
thank you. I'm not sure what I'm looking at, these freeze frames were taken a couple months back when the last code came on. Looks normal to me? Of course like you suggested I need to look at the idle data as well for comparison.
If you are getting lean codes (P0171 and 0174) it can be a few things so don’t start shotgunning parts…if you have your scan tool look at your long term fuel trims at idle…now raise the RPM to about 3000 RPM…if the short terms go negative and the long terms slowly decrease you have a vacuum leak…this is engine diagnostics 101…if fuel trims are low but INCREASE as you raise the RPM you have either a dirty MAF or a fuel delivery issue like a weak fuel pump…dirty MAF sensors usually manifest itself as fuel trims that are negative at idle but increase as RPM’s are increased…if it is a vacuum leak you can use Brake Kleen trying this when the engine is cooler (fire risk) and spray about the intake runners and intake bellows downstream of the MAF and if the fuel trims go NEGATIVE you found your leak…you can squeeze the brake booster hose because that can be an issue…I prefer using propane or my smoke machine to accurately diagnose this.
This info was very helpful. So at idle all trims are low, at 3k rpms everything goes up, except short term bank 1 which goes negative. So would this be a dirty MAF or fuel delivery problem? Odd that only one parameter when negative on Bank 1.
looks like it was the MAF. Changed it out and short term fuel looks better when the rpms are at 3k. Cleared codes and will drive it around to see if they return. Thanks everyone for the info, learned about fuel trim in this exercise.
