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I'll change my HB from original one to a new Dayco PB1117SS unit.
In the same time, I want to cahnge the original chain tensioner (my car has 75'000 miles).
I've read here that I can change from LS3 tensioner to a more reliable LS2 dampener.
However, I'm just a bit affraid about too more play in the chain with possible risk of an offset timing ... I've seen on rock auto that the AC Delco chain is the same for both engines, but other parts (gears) have not the same GM part number.
Other point : can I disassemble the timing chain cover without changing the oil pan gasket ? I have already the timing chain cover gasket, but I just don't want to remove the oil pan !
I’m also wondering if I shouldn’t leave everything in place. It seems that the people who have problems with the LS3 tensioner are those who race the car on track (not my case !) and/ or have changed their camshaft (not my case again): is this correct?
Thanks.
Chris
C5R chain is what you want, Powerbond SFI unit is the HB you want. Yes you can do the job with the oil pan in place just put a little RTV in the corners. the tensioners with the little ramp and spring have proved problematic, the plastic BOWTIE is just fine, you will have to move the steering rack to pull the HB.
I don't want to change my chain until it is really necessary... (I assume a chain will last about min 125'000 miles).
Plastic Bowtie is the LS2 dampener, right ? I agree that the LS3 tensioner appears weak...
I removed the sterring rack : not an easy task for me ;-)
I thought about it this weekend... It’s actually easier now that the rack is outside!
What is the C5R chain number? Is it available at Rockauto (or others)? I know that it is necessary to change directly the complete kit with the gears.
I’ve read a lot of posts today about replacing:
- chain guide
- chain
- oil pump
It seems that the best solution is to put:
LS2 chain guide
Katech C5R chain
Melling M295HV oil pump, for my engine with many miles and with not very high oil pressure. I also added a Z06 oil radiator that could further lower the pressure.
However, I still have questions:
Must the oil pump be dismantled to remove the chain and chain guide ?
Can we change the original chain for a Katech without changing the gears ?
I'll change my HB from original one to a new Dayco PB1117SS unit.
In the same time, I want to cahnge the original chain tensioner (my car has 75'000 miles).
I've read here that I can change from LS3 tensioner to a more reliable LS2 dampener.
However, I'm just a bit affraid about too more play in the chain with possible risk of an offset timing ... I've seen on rock auto that the AC Delco chain is the same for both engines, but other parts (gears) have not the same GM part number.
Other point : can I disassemble the timing chain cover without changing the oil pan gasket ? I have already the timing chain cover gasket, but I just don't want to remove the oil pan !
I’m also wondering if I shouldn’t leave everything in place. It seems that the people who have problems with the LS3 tensioner are those who race the car on track (not my case !) and/ or have changed their camshaft (not my case again): is this correct?
Thanks.
Chris
Originally Posted by chris383
I’ve read a lot of posts today about replacing:
- chain guide
- chain
- oil pump
It seems that the best solution is to put:
LS2 chain guide
Katech C5R chain
Melling M295HV oil pump, for my engine with many miles and with not very high oil pressure. I also added a Z06 oil radiator that could further lower the pressure.
However, I still have questions:
Must the oil pump be dismantled to remove the chain and chain guide ?
Can we change the original chain for a Katech without changing the gears ?
It's a street-driven car with a stock cam. You don't need any of that stuff.
At 75K miles, most people changing a front pulley will replace the front main seal while they're in there and call it a day.
If this is just preventative maintenance, think carefully about the trade-offs. If you screw something up in those tight quarters you could end up with a leaker, or with an oil pickup that sucks air. Don't get me wrong, it's all doable--I've done it--but I wouldn't recommend it as part of a routine 75K mile service. Not unless something is wrong.
Lifter failures are much more common than cam chain failures. If I wanted to make sure my LS3 lasted well into the 6-digit mileage, I'd pull the heads and install link-bar lifters along with a new cam and all the stuff you're talking about. But that's a bigger project.
It is true that on the one hand, I think that changing the parts deemed "weak" for better or new originals is a good thing from a certain milage and/ or age.
But it is true that I do not know well the LS-engines and it appears that the change of the tensioner/dampener is more complicated (for me) than expected and especially, as you say, it is quite risky that I have problems after reassembly...
I noticed that a large number - if not all - of the people who had chain/tensioner problems made modifications on the motor, for example of the UD pulley type (for reasons that escape me...).
I think I’ll do what you say: change the distribution housing seal and install my new HB.
This seal seems rather delicate to take out according to the workshop manual.
And its installation requires a rather large tube (dia 2.75'').
Remains the problem of the oil cooler Z06 addition...
My cold oil pressure is 40 psi and 30 psi hot - 28 psi very hot.
I finally adopted an intermediate method: I opened the timing cover to inspect the condition of the tensioner.
As it appears to be in good condition, I decided to not change my tensioner in order not to risk anything with the oil pump.
I now have a question for the lid assembly:
I bought the tool to center the lid.
I also understood that it is necessary to put RTV at each corner where the cover meets the oil pan.
What I’m wondering is:
-Should something be put on the rubber part of the cover gasket ? I was thinking of putting oil on it, but I think it might disrupt the RTV in the corners...
RTV does not seem to me too adapted either with the rubber.
- How to tighten the cover screws on the block and on the oil pan. I read that you must first tighten the block, but then you are not sure that the cover presses on the seal of the oil pan...
DONT tighten the oil pan bolts first! I made that mistake and had to do it again. If you tighten the oil pan bolts first, it will pull the cover "off center" of the crankshaft and cause the crank seal to leak.
ok, but is the sealing done correctly in this case?
It is necessary to add a little RTV under the cover, in my opinion (also marked on the instructions of the centring tool).
About this, I took the tool that is used with the crank seal. In the same manual, they say that it is better to use the type or the centering is done without the seal and add it after, which seems to me actually better.
Last edited by chris383; Mar 10, 2024 at 01:22 PM.
Hello,
I will come back to this subject.
I had everything up again, but I got a code P0016 when I tarted the engine.
Reading the posts here, one of the causes could be the cam sensor.
So I bought a new one and tried to get out the old one. But it really did not want to go out and of course, the plastic broke without being able to extract it...
I had to dance to disassemble it again to get it out: it was really hard to hold in the lid.
I now have questions :
- does the cover seal (with a "U" shape) have a mounting direction? I read this, but I have serious doubts because the rubber seal looks very symmetric on the metal plate.
- Should this cover seal be lubricated? With what: engine oil? Other?
- Can the chain guide be changed without removing the oil pump? I don't think that...
LS2 dampener on LS3 engine
