2005 Corvette - weird electrical problems
Those answers are really going to determine the outcome of this thread.
Sorry to hear of your troubles. It certainly is frustrating to deal with random issues that appear to have no rhym or reason





I have 05 for last 15 years I have learned when the battery gets weak, I have problems, if I replace the battery, problems gone till next time.
I also can say had the car checked in the beginning for electric problems since batteries don't last very long in my car and look for good warranty cause every 26 months I have to replace it.
I have 05 for last 15 years I have learned when the battery gets weak, I have problems, if I replace the battery, problems gone till next time.
I also can say had the car checked in the beginning for electric problems since batteries don't last very long in my car and look for good warranty cause every 26 months I have to replace it.
Those answers are really going to determine the outcome of this thread.
Sorry to hear of your troubles. It certainly is frustrating to deal with random issues that appear to have no rhym or reason
Today when we called to check, he indicated that he took all the connections loose under the passenger side, connected them back, and none of the electrical issues are showing up now. However, now the transmission is slipping when you really 'get on the gas' - his words. So, we plan to go pick it up from him, and try to find a corvette specialist, unless there's something simple in those wires under the passenger feet that could be affecting the transmission. We're so bummed. It's corvette-driving and car show weather, and we're ready!
I have 05 for last 15 years I have learned when the battery gets weak, I have problems, if I replace the battery, problems gone till next time.
I also can say had the car checked in the beginning for electric problems since batteries don't last very long in my car and look for good warranty cause every 26 months I have to replace it.
I did a quick reply with tons of info, but it said a moderator would have to approve. We did change the battery and battery cables. The messages show up on the DIC - active handling, traction control, struts inoperable, low fuel, anti lock break system, etc. We turned it off, then tried to start it back, and it didn’t want to start back right away. It finally did, but was driving terrible. Transmission wouldn’t shift, brakes were doing weird things…we got it to Auto Zone, but for some reason they couldn’t code it. At that point, it wouldn’t start back at all, so we had it towed home. We got it home, and it started right up so we could drive it off the tow truck. The next morning, we had it towed to service. This was around March 10-11.





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Last edited by C5 Diag; Jun 14, 2024 at 07:01 PM.
Possible to have a short in the main harness at the ecu?
If that seems to be the source of your problems, I would certainly start there.
Bad grounds and faulty modules can be a nightmare to diagnose. I feel for you for sure on this one, but sounds like you might be able to localize to the main harness area at the ecu or the ecu itself maybe.
Possible to have a short in the main harness at the ecu?
If that seems to be the source of your problems, I would certainly start there.
Bad grounds and faulty modules can be a nightmare to diagnose. I feel for you for sure on this one, but sounds like you might be able to localize to the main harness area at the ecu or the ecu itself maybe.
Well, after being stranded one day when the car wouldn't start, wouldn't see the FOB, no unlock/lock, etc ..... I found the solution to my gremlins to be removal of the battery tray and a good cleaning of the grounding connections underneath, along with electrical contact cleaner and dialectic grease on every major fuse connection in the box by the battery. Knock on wood, but I haven't seen a single issue since. Given your symptoms, I would suggest cleaning / greasing all the ECU connectors as well.
Not saying this will fix your issues, but if you search this site you will see a history of weird electrical issues due to the crazy sensitive components on a car that has limited metal contact points. Most circuits on modern cars operate on low voltage / milli-amp feeds, so anything that inhibits a minor amount of voltage / amperage will affect the car.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Start by disconnecting the battery,
Now go into cubby hole in passager side, and disconnect the two blue connectors on the BCM, and the center red connector with bolt, to use spray contact cleaner on them to clean the connector on both the connector side and the BCM pins,
Next, before reconnecting the connectors, make sure that you have slack on the wiring loom via that comes back under the carpet back in the cubby location, that when passenger if pushing their feet down on the carpet, not putting so much tension on the wiring loom, that is causing problems back at the BCM connector. Hence if needed, you can pull the carpet up, to back pull on the loom under the carpet, to add more slack on the cables back up at the BCM connector, that when someone is pushing down on the carpet with there feet, not causing problems with the cable So tight at the BCM, to cause connection problems there.

Once these are completed, then re connector the battery, reset the time on the radio, then make sure to re-index the windows.
To do the windows, just roll the windows one at a time all the way up, and keep pressure on the button for 4 seconds after the window is all the way up. You should hear a slight click after about 3 seconds each side and its the window module resetting for the all they way up index position.
.
Well, after being stranded one day when the car wouldn't start, wouldn't see the FOB, no unlock/lock, etc ..... I found the solution to my gremlins to be removal of the battery tray and a good cleaning of the grounding connections underneath, along with electrical contact cleaner and dialectic grease on every major fuse connection in the box by the battery. Knock on wood, but I haven't seen a single issue since. Given your symptoms, I would suggest cleaning / greasing all the ECU connectors as well.
Not saying this will fix your issues, but if you search this site you will see a history of weird electrical issues due to the crazy sensitive components on a car that has limited metal contact points. Most circuits on modern cars operate on low voltage / milli-amp feeds, so anything that inhibits a minor amount of voltage / amperage will affect the car.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Start by disconnecting the battery,
Now go into cubby hole in passager side, and disconnect the two blue connectors on the BCM, and the center red connector with bolt, to use spray contact cleaner on them to clean the connector on both the connector side and the BCM pins,
Next, before reconnecting the connectors, make sure that you have slack on the wiring loom via that comes back under the carpet back in the cubby location, that when passenger if pushing their feet down on the carpet, not putting so much tension on the wiring loom, that is causing problems back at the BCM connector. Hence if needed, you can pull the carpet up, to back pull on the loom under the carpet, to add more slack on the cables back up at the BCM connector, that when someone is pushing down on the carpet with there feet, not causing problems with the cable So tight at the BCM, to cause connection problems there.

Once these are completed, then re connector the battery, reset the time on the radio, then make sure to re-index the windows.
To do the windows, just roll the windows one at a time all the way up, and keep pressure on the button for 4 seconds after the window is all the way up. You should hear a slight click after about 3 seconds each side and its the window module resetting for the all they way up index position.















