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Problem found unfortunatey. Wrong reluctor wheel.
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Hi guys. I identified the connector, it was for the oil pan sensor.
However I’m not getting an RPM readout nor oil pressure. 0335 code says missing signal.
I have reseated the oil pressure switch connector twice now, no luck.
E40 ecu, 2005 C6.
Ideas and thoughts appreciated. Thanks!
Last edited by Russdawg1; Jul 31, 2024 at 02:06 AM.
The Tach gets its signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor so if you have a CKP DTC it’s either a wiring issue or a bad sensor…I’m assuming you have a P0336…that’s something you’ll have to diagnose…your oil pressure issue is something different…what color wires is that 3 wire connector you pictured ??
The Tach gets its signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor so if you have a CKP DTC it’s either a wiring issue or a bad sensor…I’m assuming you have a P0336…that’s something you’ll have to diagnose…your oil pressure issue is something different…what color wires is that 3 wire connector you pictured ??
the connector is actually for the pan sensor. Didn’t match because I forgot to swap them out.
still have rpm and oil issue. I have a 0335 code which means missing signal? Thinking about just swapping both sensors out since they’re both old anyways.
the connector is actually for the pan sensor. Didn’t match because I forgot to swap them out.
still have rpm and oil issue. I have a 0335 code which means missing signal? Thinking about just swapping both sensors out since they’re both old anyways.
P0335 is a sensor “circuit” DTC and 0336 is a sensor “performance” one…similar codes…oil pressure sensor is also a 3 wire sensor…either bad sensor or wiring…if you decide to replace stick with OEM…if you decide to change the sensor you have a 50-50 shot it’s the sensor !!
I swapped the crank sensor out, and I still have 0335, but now in combination with 0340. Car refuses to crank. Just turns off until I left off the clutch now.
Forums lead me to believe voltage issue since its unlikely the camshaft sensor magically went bad.
I swapped the crank sensor out, and I still have 0335, but now in combination with 0340. Car refuses to crank. Just turns off until I left off the clutch now.
Forums lead me to believe voltage issue since its unlikely the camshaft sensor magically went bad.
Was your crank sensor OEM or some junk from Amazon or EBay ??…if you have both DTC’s set I would check your wiring.
Was your crank sensor OEM or some junk from Amazon or EBay ??…on the LS1 engines the crank and cam sensor share the 12 volt reference…if you have both DTC’s set I would check your wiring…LS1 uses a 1X reluctor and the LS3 uses a 4X.
Replacement was from autozone, pulled out what appears to be OEM, and new.... So smarter me must have replaced it before I put the motor in. Duh.
I resat the starter plug and 0340 went away. Just back to 0335 and cranking again. So the sensor didn't do anything unless both the installed one AND replacement are bad, lol. I wonder if since its a new motor and its never been started before it just needs to be attempted to be turned over. I'm only trying to crank it to check oil pressure atm. No spark/Fuel/etc. Something about a crank relearn? But according to that info sheet, 0335 is missing a lot of signals, not just a few.
I checked the loom and all the wires look intact. Annoying.
Do you know what voltage the oil switch produces? I think ill just run a battery onto the leads to see if the wiring is good/computer sees anything going on. Have the sensor but its a bear to install obviously so would like to avoid swapping it out.
What “starter plug” are you referring to ??…if you want to just crank the engine over without starting just do a “clear flood crank”…hold the gas pedal to the floor while starting to just crank the engine…you need to do a “crank relearn” if replacing the crank sensor…don’t know what you mean by crank sensor is missing “a lot of signals” ??…are you using a labscope ??
What “starter plug” are you referring to ??…if you want to just crank the engine over without starting just do a “clear flood crank”…hold the gas pedal to the floor while starting to just crank the engine…you need to do a “crank relearn” if replacing the crank sensor…don’t know what you mean by crank sensor is missing “a lot of signals” ??…are you using a labscope ??
sorry, was just spitballing quickly before I had to leave.
starter solenoid has a connector on the harness. That’s the plug I was referring to.
yes I’m just trying to crank the motor to see if oil pressure builds and identify any issues (like this crank sensor code and missing oil pressure) didn’t know about the flood clear start, is it better to do it that way rather than leaving the injectors unplugged or does it make no difference?
No I’m not using a lab scope but I guess I may have to if I can’t figure out what’s going on. Missing a lot of signals = missing multiple crank pulses as indicated by the code.
Clear flood crank is just easier to do !!…if you back probe the signal wire while cranking the engine you should see if you see maybe 2-3 volts that fluctuate if there is a signal from the sensor…you won’t see 12 volts since a DVOM averages the voltage plus there is a on/off signal…I’d also check for the 12 volt reference and reference ground with a test light connected to battery positive…if no crank sensor signal the Tach will not move while trying to start the engine.
Clear flood crank is just easier to do !!…if you back probe the signal wire while cranking the engine you should see if you see maybe 2-3 volts that fluctuate if there is a signal from the sensor…you won’t see 12 volts since a DVOM averages the voltage plus there is a on/off signal…I’d also check for the 12 volt reference and reference ground with a test light connected to battery positive…if no crank sensor signal the Tach will not move while trying to start the engine.
Found the issue btw. Thanks for your help.
Worst case scenario too. Wrong reluctor wheel when engine was built. And I didn't pay attention.