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Hey guys I have a 2005 manual trans c6 corvette. I am having a no crank no start issue.
WHAT I DID SO FAR:
I got a new battery and replaced a loose terminal in the battery with a new one but no start.
I pulled the starter relay, the ignition relay and fuel pump relay out to test them directly from the battery and all of them make a click noise when I do so.
I pulled the starter out of the car and connected it to the battery, I can show a video of how I did this, the gear pushes out and spins like it should so the starter motor and solenoid on it are both working as they should.
SOME ADDITIONAL INFO:
This no crank no start issue happened after I was driving it hard and went to start it the next day.since then I have noticed the following:
The ignition fuse looks good visibly and have tested it for continuity with my multimeter and it’s good.
With the car in accesory mode the pins that you place the ignition fuse in, in the BCM ( footwell of passanger seat) are receiving 12 volts ( checked with multimeter) but other fuses are not: particularly the ecm and a fuse both below and above it. I tried to turn on the car after finding this out and, these fuses where getting power, I’m not sure if that’s normal, or if at least the ecm fuse in particular should get power before others.( could this indicate a bad BCM or is it a thing where power to the ecm fuse is only supplied when the car is started cuz that’s when it’s actually needed)
When I plug in my obd even though the battery shows good and car is in accessory mode, it shows as good status but I am unable to connect to the car and this was not happening prior to the no start no crank issue.
As a norm my key fob isn’t sometimes detected but I am able to turn on the car by placing the key inside the key slot of the passenger side glove compartment. This is how I was able to put the car in accessory mode, but as of today a few days later the car will not detect key fob even if I put it in the slot, and my battery is 3.1 volts I tested it.
I know the next thing I should probably do is check to see if I’m getting both constant power to the starter, and to check if when I attempt to turn it on if the signal to actually turn it on is being sent.
Which is most probable to be the cause based on information so far and what should I check first? : Switch on the transmission, clutch pedal switch, ignition switch, bcm/ecm. Also please let me know how I can conduct the check test or if it’s possible to test the switch/system/component etc without having to buy a new part…. Or is it something else I should worry about checking first? A lot of times ppl say hey this could be the cause like tdr, but I don’t actually know how to test it or where to find it for example so even if it seems simple to you pls let me know…
I don’t know what you mean by when you plug in your scan tool it shows it “good status”…what is good status ??…so with your scan tool it says “can not communicate” with the car ??…if you have a communication issue the car will not start…no crank…no start… no nuthin !!
Below is the Information Bus for your 2005…there are a few checks you can do with your DVOM…you will be looking for 60 ohms between pins 6 and 14 of the DLC with the battery disconnected…you will also be checking for voltage at both pins 6 and 14 with ignition on.
I don’t know what you mean by when you plug in your scan tool it shows it “good status”…what is good status ??…so with your scan tool it says “can not communicate” with the car ??…if you have a communication issue the car will not start…no crank…no start… no nuthin !!
I mean the battery status says is good but you know when your ignition is not turned on for instance the obd tells you make sure ignition is on, the car is obd 2 compliant etc and doesn’t communicate with your car, so it’s not communicating with the obd even when accessory mode was on
I mean the battery status says is good but you know when your ignition is not turned on for instance the obd tells you make sure ignition is on, the car is obd 2 compliant etc and doesn’t communicate with your car, so it’s not communicating with the obd even when accessory mode was on
Please take a picture of what you see with your scan tool.
Please take a picture of what you see with your scan tool.
I which I could do that but my key fob is not being detected even when I placed it in the key slot in the glove compartment ( and with a cr2032 battery with 3.1 voltage) so I can’t even put it in accessory mode😭. I unplugged my Bluetooth charger, i placed my phone outside the car and I unplugged the battery for a minute, went back in the car same issue
I which I could do that but my key fob is not being detected even when I placed it in the key slot in the glove compartment ( and with a cr2032 battery with 3.1 voltage) so I can’t even put it in accessory mode😭. I unplugged my Bluetooth charger, i placed my phone outside the car and I unplugged the battery for a minute, went back in the car same issue
It thought you said the car was able to be put in accessory mode ??…try the resistance check I mentioned above…what fuses are not being powered ???..if this is over your head I’d highly suggest you flatbed the car to an auto electric shop.
I was able to put it into accessory mode yesterday when I checked this stuff, but all of a sudden I can’t…
I’ll pick up on this tomorrow!!…you check fuses with a 12 volt test light…if fuse is powered and test light illuminates on both test points the fuse is good…you can have a good fuse but that circuit may not be powered…test light does not illuminate on both test points.
I have a 2005 MN6 sp. Mine had a similar problem. I got in the car, push down clutch and hit Start push button. The dash went blank for ~ 20 seconds with a no crank no start. Checked all grounds. Checked most fuses. Checked BCM and ECM plugs. Founds nothing unusual. GAVE up and had roll back take to dealer. The solution for my car turned out to be BOTH reverse position sensors on the transmission were bad. The tech replaced these and problem was fixed. Good luck with yours.
I’ll pick up on this tomorrow!!…you check fuses with a 12 volt test light…if fuse is powered and test light illuminates on both test points the fuse is good…you can have a good fuse but that circuit may not be powered…test light does not illuminate on both test points.
Hey I appreciate it the help was out of town, just got back, so ready to get started on it tomorrow, gonna try to the key fob issue going
I have a 2005 MN6 sp. Mine had a similar problem. I got in the car, push down clutch and hit Start push button. The dash went blank for ~ 20 seconds with a no crank no start. Checked all grounds. Checked most fuses. Checked BCM and ECM plugs. Founds nothing unusual. GAVE up and had roll back take to dealer. The solution for my car turned out to be BOTH reverse position sensors on the transmission were bad. The tech replaced these and problem was fixed. Good luck with yours.
Gotcha, I wonder if it is easy to check and if there’s a way to test the sensor, hoping it is cheap, thanks for the input