So I'm driving home from a quick errand the car goes into limp mode with Reduced Power and service active handling I can barley go 5 mph but get it home code P2135 was pulled . My so cleaned the MAF it idles fine. Is it most likely the pedal sensor gone bad?

 

 

It is most likely a TPS sensor or wiring issue…if don’t have much experience using a DVOM you can just replace the sensor but you have a 50-50 chance…are you using a code reader or a scan tool ??…with a factory level or similar aftermarket scan tool this is easy to diagnose…with a code reader the best you can do is erase codes.

 

If you feel like running through the diagnostic steps..................
Bad TPS requires replacement of throttle body.


P2135 Circuit/System Testing
1-Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the throttle body. Allow up to 2 minutes for the ECM to completely power down.
2-Ignition OFF, test for less than 5 ohms of resistance between the low reference circuit terminal C and ground.
⇒ If greater than 5 ohms, test the low reference circuit for an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.

3-Ignition ON, test for 4.8-5.2 volts between 5-volt reference circuit terminal E and ground.
⇒ If less than 4.8 volts, test 5-volt reference circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.

⇒ If greater than 5.2 volts, test the 5-volt reference circuit for a short to voltage. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.

4-Verify the scan tool TP sensor 1 voltage is less than 0.1 volt.
⇒ If greater than 0.1 volt, test the signal circuit terminal D for a short to voltage. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.

5-Verify the scan tool TP sensor 2 voltage is greater than 4.8 volts.
⇒ If less than 4.8 volts, test the signal circuit terminal F for a short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.

6-Install a 3A fused jumper wire between the signal circuit terminal D and the 5-volt reference circuit terminal E of the TP sensor 1. Verify the TP sensor 1 voltage is greater than 4.8 volts.
⇒ If less than 4.8 volts, test the TP sensor 1 signal circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.

7-Install a 3A fused jumper wire between the signal circuit terminal F and the low reference circuit terminal C of the TP sensor 2. Verify that the TP sensor 2 voltage is less than 0.1 volt.
⇒ If greater than 1.0 volt, test the TP sensor 2 signal circuit for a short to voltage or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.

8-Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the ECM.
9-Test for less than 5 ohms of resistance on all TP sensor circuits between the following terminals:
• ECM C2 signal circuit terminal 65 to TP terminal D

• ECM C2 signal circuit terminal 63 to TP terminal F

• ECM C2 5-volt reference circuit terminal 3 to terminal E

⇒ If greater than 5 ohms, repair the affected circuit for open/high resistance.

10-Test for infinite resistance between TP sensor 1 signal circuit terminal D and TP sensor signal circuit terminal F.
⇒ If less than infinite resistance, repair the short between TP sensor 1 signal circuit and TP sensor 2 signal circuit.

11-If all circuits test normal, replace the throttle body.

 

You can get just the TPS sensor (OEM) from Rock Auto for around $96.00...no need to change the TB.

 

I had a P2135 code recently and it proved to be caused by the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. Replaced it with a low-cost one on eBay, but was not happy because the first 10 percent of pedal travel was dead. I then bought a genuine GM one from GM Parts America. Yes, it is more cost, but it is working great. The genuine GM pedal sensors are getting hard to find. I believe they are discontinued. If you find one, buy it.

 

Well since the OP did not provide his year model...which drives me crazy from those seeking repair advice......I based my reply on my 2007 LS2 experience, which I believe does not have a replaceable sensor.

I need to learn to ignore requests for help from those who think every C6 is the same, so no need to add your year/engine.

 

YES !!…you are 1000% correct…I at least need to know the model year minimum and if it’s auto or manual and what engine…sometimes I can look at the OP’s previous posts and he may mention at least what year…drives me crazy too…there are changes to these cars year to year…anyone reading this PLEASE fill out your profile with this info.

 

My apologies I usually post in the C6 Zo6/ZR1 section. 2009 ZR1 750whp..

 

Update: So I looked around the engine bay and found the vacuum line was unplugged from air intake. I plugged it in drove to gym car ran fine but the engine light was still on. 90 minutes later restarted the car the engine light was gone and the car is running fine...thoughts?

 

Look up the term "drive cycle"