When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I already got to take the top end of my Corvette C6 apart to fix what I think is a lifter problem. The heads have to come off, but I’m intending to leave the bottom alone. is there any real advantage to buying new heads without changing the cam or should I just go ahead and machine the originals any input I would really appreciate as I am a novice
If you have a lifter problem, chances are you have a cam problem too. Do you care about going faster, or just wanting to fix what's broken and carry on? What engine do you have and how many miles are on it? Do you have access to 93 octane fuel? Do you have to go by the book to pass emissions in your state?
I have 2007 Ls 2 I do not have ez access to 9: octane. Car has 100 k on it I wouldn’t mind more performance as long as I have the car apart, but really I just want to do the right thing as I plan on keeping the car. I don’t want to add performance at the expense of reliability.
Also cars been firing a cat code since I bought it so in order to register and I had to do some finagling in my state, it needs to be smog every two years
In your situation, I'd do a valve job and clean up mill of the heads to insure true surfaces. I'd probably replace the valve springs and seals too as well as use new or rebuilt rocker arms. They have to disassemble the heads for the valve job. Doesn't cost any more in labor to put them back together with new springs and seals. I'd use Caddy racing lifters and stock LS2 head gaskets. I'd probably replace the timing chain while you're there.
you can probably buy a set of CNC heads for what it will cost to clean yours up. It is a lot of work though, I'd try and be really sure you have a lifter problem before I'd tear it apart
you can probably buy a set of CNC heads for what it will cost to clean yours up. It is a lot of work though, I'd try and be really sure you have a lifter problem before I'd tear it apart
for sure. I’ve had 3 dif people listen. I think I’m gonna take belt off. And start it.
It really isn’t horrible but I’m a head case !
Old motorhead has made some good suggestions. I'd also add a couple of things. One would be to call Tony Mamo at Mamo Motorsports. Best customer service in the country, and you wont find a more knowledgeable, passionate-about-his-work guy anywhere. At 100,000 miles, I'd probably replace the oil pump and agree with motorhead about timing chain. Now for the rabbit hole, aka-"while your in there"; there'll never be a better time to install a mild cam, or whatever grind you may want. When it comes to cams, there is really just one thing that is absolutely essential. That is to be totally honest with yourself as to how you use the car. A wise old mechanic told me the following almost 50 years ago. I was putting together a 350 sbc for my full size Blazer, with a 3.08 gear. I told him Crane has a new kick *** racing cam I'd love to have. He looked at me and said "are you gonna race it, or are you gonna drive it?" Ended that pipe dream, quickly. Glad I listened to him. Best of luck.....
keep the LS2 heads send them to KATECH in Ohio for porting and a refresh, then their done when you do a cam, you will do the cam.
What does Katech charge for that? I know Tx Speed will do it for about $850. CNC port, valve job, mill as much as you want, clean and assemble with your valve springs and seals. I had that done to my LS3 heads. Very pleased with their work.
So I was wondering if you guys could help me figure out approximately what I should pay for a a rebuild of the top end, including what should be done, lifter, lifter, trays, machine, heads, etc. no real upgrades just rebuild. What should I pay in a day and age for a good on the shop to do all of that?
As it turns out roler on 7 is the culprit.
I expected at least.
cam has some scarring. Irritating
can you guys please give me some advice.
should absolutely replace or no
if so should I consider cam more performance
can I do that without expecting dependability issues.
what would be a mature (lol) sane idea in terms of overall build. If I wanted to slightly enhance performance. I will beat on it occasionally but no racing or track
I do not do this everyday as a professional
I’m just a guy that likes cars.
appreciate in advance any experienced input
As it turns out roler on 7 is the culprit.
I expected at least.
cam has some scarring. Irritating
can you guys please give me some advice.
should absolutely replace or no
if so should I consider cam more performance
can I do that without expecting dependability issues.
what would be a mature (lol) sane idea in terms of overall build. If I wanted to slightly enhance performance. I will beat on it occasionally but no racing or track
I do not do this everyday as a professional
I’m just a guy that likes cars.
appreciate in advance any experienced input
Absolutely replace that cam. I'm going to go with one of Cam Motion's mild cams if a lifter and cam are my only problems. Still don't know the extent of the damage yet in mine. https://cammotion.com/camshafts/mild...-ls2-cams-6-0/
You will also need appropriate valve springs, GOOD lifters (I'm going with Johnson 2116R so I can be done with them for good), pushrods and might as well get a timing chain, oil pump (Melling High Pressure) and good harmonic balancer.
Cam Motion has install kits to get all that's necessary and most of the highly-recommended optional stuff into your shopping cart. They also show valve spring recommendations for each cam on its product page.