Vertically aligning timing cover....
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 12,859
Likes: 4,658
Vertically aligning timing cover....
Around 4 years back I tried aligning the front cover. Side to side wasn't a problem. But up and down was. It is hard to compress the pan gasket rubber enough to locate the vertical alignment, because the alignment tool doesn't want to go into the cover. It's damn hard to lower the cradle enough to access the oil pan bolts on the C5/C6. In any case, the pan and the cover both tighten against the same gasket, stopping when they contact the aluminum that the rubber is bonded to. Which should align the cover vertically. I eventually stopped my slow leak with Blue Devil Seal Swell. I'd rather not use it this time. Anyone have any ideas on this? Thank you....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 468
I am not sure how the factory got it right every time, because I sure can't 🤣
I have given up on the alignment tools, and I use the main seal front and rear to align the cover. I use a straight edge from the oil pan rail to the lower flange of the front/ rear covers to ensure I am no "better" (proud,above) than the oil pan surface
2 different engines now, I haven't been able to get the rear cover to even get to flush, it's been below flush by as much as .047"
Enter Permatex Ultra Grey. Torque cover to spec (18ft/lbs) to block, apply fat bead (3/16-1/4") on the lower flange to oil pan sealing surface then torque on oil pan
If you're not pulling the pan, you'll need to use RTV in the lower corners anyway, so just add a bead on top of the oil pan gasket and let the seal center/align the cover
I've done this above 2 processes for several cam swaps in my Tahoe and 3 different engine builds in my C5 and I've been leak free every time. When I used the alignment tools on engine #2 in the C5, had a rear main seal leak because the cover got "pulled" down and wasn't concentric with the crank and the seal wasn't able to make up the difference and it leaked
I have given up on the alignment tools, and I use the main seal front and rear to align the cover. I use a straight edge from the oil pan rail to the lower flange of the front/ rear covers to ensure I am no "better" (proud,above) than the oil pan surface
2 different engines now, I haven't been able to get the rear cover to even get to flush, it's been below flush by as much as .047"
Enter Permatex Ultra Grey. Torque cover to spec (18ft/lbs) to block, apply fat bead (3/16-1/4") on the lower flange to oil pan sealing surface then torque on oil pan
If you're not pulling the pan, you'll need to use RTV in the lower corners anyway, so just add a bead on top of the oil pan gasket and let the seal center/align the cover
I've done this above 2 processes for several cam swaps in my Tahoe and 3 different engine builds in my C5 and I've been leak free every time. When I used the alignment tools on engine #2 in the C5, had a rear main seal leak because the cover got "pulled" down and wasn't concentric with the crank and the seal wasn't able to make up the difference and it leaked
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,491
Likes: 806
From: West coast CA
Around 4 years back I tried aligning the front cover. Side to side wasn't a problem. But up and down was. It is hard to compress the pan gasket rubber enough to locate the vertical alignment, because the alignment tool doesn't want to go into the cover. It's damn hard to lower the cradle enough to access the oil pan bolts on the C5/C6. In any case, the pan and the cover both tighten against the same gasket, stopping when they contact the aluminum that the rubber is bonded to. Which should align the cover vertically. I eventually stopped my slow leak with Blue Devil Seal Swell. I'd rather not use it this time. Anyone have any ideas on this? Thank you....
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 12,859
Likes: 4,658
Ideally you would install the covers before installing the oil pan. Use an alignment tool if the crank seal isn't pre-installed. With the pan off, clock the front or rear cover so the gap to the bottom of the block is equal on both sides. If the engine is out of the car, temporarily install the bell housing. Then dab the four corners with RTV and install the oil pan. That ensures the crank seals are centered and the bell housing mounting surface is flat.
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