So I had a broken shifter cable on my 05 C6 unfortunately I hired somebody to do the work and they disconnected the exhaust at the manifold.
When the idiot told me he had to cut the exhaust to drop it down I said I've heard enough you can leave and I went ahead and finished the repair myself.
well to my fault I wasn't aware of that the exhaust was broken loose below the manifold and started the car it ran for about 2 seconds and shut down. Now it does the same thing and it's showing the PCM po601 code and the O2 sensor code po135. I'm a pretty knowledgeable mechanic as I'm a master electrician and worked on and built racecars for quite a while as I'm 62 years old. I've checked all the wiring harnesses have they exhaust all tightened up and back together but it's still doing the same thing and throwing the same codes. First question is how can I reset the PCM.
I've already disconnected the battery and the fuses and let it reset it overnight and still comes up the same and only runs for a couple seconds. The car ran fine with no codes or any check engine lights or anything on prior to this issue and the exhaust being taken apart and started. any inside or experience with this sort of issue would be a great help thanks.

 

Iirc you need to drive the car for the codes to clear. At least 50 miles or so.

 

It won't stay running longer than 2 seconds or 3 seconds

 

Have you checked all the wiring around the areas the guy you hired worked on? Also, have you tested the battery to make sure it has a sufficient charge? How about the wiring on the O2 sensor, or any grounds that may have been affected? P0601 isn't necessarily an issue with the PCM.

 

Yeah I put a new battery in it replaced all the terminals checked all the wiring on everything I'm going to go ahead and start verifying the grounds.
what is the procedure for testing the sensors and see if they're actually bad which would be odd that they have a menus but worth a try before I start purchasing about a lot of stuff

 

The reduced power message comes on on the dash also. And the steering column and shifter do not lock in place when the car is off

 

That's a good question for @Dano523

 

Appreciate the input I'm going to go and check the transmission shift lever location sensor, and the cable adjustment, just was trying not to have to put the car back up on the jack stands and crawl my old butt under there but going for it .

 

The steering wheel does not lock but the shifter should lock when in the Park position. Does the shifter go all the way in the Park position? There should be a shift indicator that shows orange indicating what gear (P R N D S) you are in. It may not be fully in the Park position and require a cable adjustment to get the shifter to lock. Or the gates in the shifter mechanism or not releasing and allowing the shifter to lock ( you will need to pull the top section of the console off to get to this)

 

Are you able to communicate with the ECM with your scan tool and see “live data” ??…if car was not in P or N the car would not even start…you need a better scan tool than your Innova to check all inputs as far as being able for the car to start and see if you can also communicate with the BCM…as far as the P0601 I’d check the ECM power and grounds and as far the P0135 which is B1S1 heater circuit code I’d clear the code first before checking the wiring …it’s just a power and a PWM ground…with an amp clamp you should see 0.25 to 1.375 amps….you need a 12 volt test light to check the PWM ground…you’re a master electrician so I shouldn’t have to explain how to check both circuits….there is a big difference between house wiring if that’s what you do vs automotive electrical systems…if you need advise how to check let me know !!…I use a 2 amp headlight bulb to check these circuits and it all depends on the current flow in that particular circuit…if you need the ECM power and ground pin outs let me know...BTW, there is not really an ECM "reset" that I know of…I’d also check to see you are getting a 5 volt reference voltage from the ECT, MAF, and TPS sensors…if you see that you can assume the ECM is “alive”.

 

All modules have a battery feed and ignition feed and ECM has one ground…check both fuses also…the P0135 may be related to a power or ground feed to the ECM but can’t say for sure and unfortunately the ECM’s internal “circuit design”is proprietary information…ignition 1 relay 44 not only feeds the O2 sensor but also the ignition1 voltage to the ECM…maybe you should check ignition1 relay…that power feed comes from ETC fuse 9 from the relay…you should see an Ignition 1 power feed data PID possibly on that scan tool…another Ignition 1 voltage power feed comes from the RUN/CRANK relay and is fed from ECM fuse 12.

 

P0160 HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 2 ECM

P0135 HO2S Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1 ECM

Of the two, and the reason that the motor is shutting itself off right after it starts, is the bank 1 problem.
Bank 2 sensors only monitoring the cats themselves, but bank 1 sensors are used for the ECM in closed loop.

So motor is starting, bank on1 sensor for the P0135 is not able to heat the sensor up enough so it can burn off the excess fuel from rich start up, and has the motor running way too rich, and why it shutting off. The fact that is a performance issues for the heater, either heater circut not getting the O2 sensor hot enough, or you have a wiring problem with not enough voltage to heater side on the sensor, or problem with the ground side of heater circut not allowing the full power to heater side of circut to heat it up correctly.

On bank 2 sensor 2(rear sensor down line after the cat), ECM is getting no feed back that sensor, either same problem above, or sensor it broken instead.

So problem P0135, maybe dropped the X pipe after pulling the exhaust and killed the sensor in that section, but P0160 sensor the one before the cat, and the cat not having to be removed, either grounding problem for the sensor, or they burnt/cut the sensor wires instead.



And WTF on cutting the X pipe out? Does this car have an after market exhaust system that someone welded the headers to X pipe.
On standard exhaust, if the down pipe after cats to X pipe nuts are rusted/snap off, you just cut the bolts off, and replace the them in the end. Hence remove bolts from downpipe after cats to X pipe, allow X pipe to slightly drop, loosen X pipe to muffler clamps, so you can pull the X pipe towards the engine to drop it out.

If you have headers that the collector sections are slip fit both ends, the kind of the same, but will need to push the X pipe and mufflers back to back of car to slip the X pipe off the header collector (or just unbolt the muffler pipes if after market mufflers, since they are not one piece like OEM mufflers, then it pretty much the same for removing the X as well.

And a better one, was the shifter cable itself snapped, or what is just the end grommets on the cable that needed to be replaced instead?
Unless shifter cable itself is snapped and it needed to be replaced in it entirety, no reason to drop the X pipe and tunnel sheild, since you can get to both ends of the cable to just replace the shifter cable end grommets.

 

Never heard of a bad O2 heater circuit causing a shutdown on a Corvette or any other car…excess fuel is unburned fuel and the O2 sensor if anything will see a lean condition not rich since it senses oxygen and not fuel….to check for yourself remove fuse 6 that powers both upstream O2 sensor heater circuits and see if your car stalls when trying to start it.

 

Also realize that P0601 is a shared trouble code across multiple modules. GM bulletin #05-06-04-060. This was done by the SAE in 2005.

So also check your wiring around the transmission. The diagnostic flowchart that C5 Diag has is basically the same for the TCM as is for the ECM.

 

Want to thank everybody for all the response and the valuable knowledge that I've gained I'm still working on the problem but I'll certainly share it when I find it thanks again to the community let's get doing some burnout soon