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2011 c6. I have had tge car a few months and put about 500 miles on it. Installed new headunit about 2 weeks ago and new battery yesterday. Car will shift into any gear with engine not on, once cranked i can only get it to go into 3rd and 4th.
Ive checked the torx on the shifter and it was tight. Where is my next step?
ETA results:
Just finished swapping the clutch MC. Everything appears to be operational now. Did a short test drive and no issues, everything worked as it should.
Last edited by Chris4x4Gill2; Nov 24, 2024 at 09:46 PM.
I suspect your battery install is completely unrelated. You may have misplaced something when putting the center console back on. Seems like a good place to start. If it is only going into 3 or 4, then its possible the shifter movement is fowled left and right
Thats what it is acting like. Car only has 11k miles on it.
I am starting to suspect clutch master cylinder, i went back and cranked the car and after a few minutes it started to improve. Still a struggle to get into 1st and reverse but would go, it was going into the others fairly easily.
I am going to drain/fill fluid first and see what happens.
I suspect your battery install is completely unrelated. You may have misplaced something when putting the center console back on. Seems like a good place to start. If it is only going into 3 or 4, then its possible the shifter movement is fowled left and right
Console is not installed currently. Took it back out to check the torx on the shift arm. All looked good.
when you do get it into gear running, does it feel like the clutch is dragging/pulling the car with the clutch engaged? I'd do the full shifter alignment and retorque since it's apart, torquing both the shifter housing bolts and the clamping arm bolt
Try bleeding the clutch master cylinder. I think I'm gonna have to soon replace my clutch master cylinder it does not have the updated one. Mine is mostly a weekend driver and maybe every couple of weeks when it doesn't want to shift gears ( it wants to pull off with the clutch pedal on the floor) I can bleed the clutch master cylinder and it works perfect. It does not leak and stays on the full mark in cylinder. PS when it happens its almost impossible to put it in any gear other than 3rd & 4th.
Console is not installed currently. Took it back out to check the torx on the shift arm. All looked good.
The torx screw that connects the shifter to the shift rod must be very tight. There is a recess in the shift rod to provide space for the torx screw to go through, but there is play between that screw and the shift rod, so you must tighten that screw quite a bit to make sure there is no slippage between the shifter and the shift rod.
when you do get it into gear running, does it feel like the clutch is dragging/pulling the car with the clutch engaged? I'd do the full shifter alignment and retorque since it's apart, torquing both the shifter housing bolts and the clamping arm bolt
It does not. It seems works normally once in gear but i havent driven it.
Try bleeding the clutch master cylinder. I think I'm gonna have to soon replace my clutch master cylinder it does not have the updated one. Mine is mostly a weekend driver and maybe every couple of weeks when it doesn't want to shift gears ( it wants to pull off with the clutch pedal on the floor) I can bleed the clutch master cylinder and it works perfect. It does not leak and stays on the full mark in cylinder. PS when it happens its almost impossible to put it in any gear other than 3rd & 4th.
Thats the plan for this evening. I read other threads with similair statements. Sounds like the master cylinder is a known weak point.
It does not. It seems works normally once in gear but i havent driven it.
Sometimes it's hard to tell. Needs to be on a level (no uphill) surface and the clutch should not feel like it's engaging until the pedal is off the floor a bit...
Master cylinder had very small amount of black fluid in it. I sucked that out, wiped it out with a clean towel and refilled with synthetic DOT4.
No noticeable change after, it will go into all gears but it feels like the clutch isnt working until its all the way to the floor. Like even with the pedal all the way to the floor, the clutch isnt engaging.
Last edited by Chris4x4Gill2; Nov 13, 2024 at 05:50 PM.
You may be right. I am going to bleed the clutch to get that old nasty fluid out and see if tgat fixes it. If not ill be looking at a new MC.
Is the "upgrade" you mention a factory version or aftermarket?
Factory. I don’t know the part number off the top of my head, but you should be able to find it by searching the forum. My car was getting a bit notchy to shift, especially when cold, so I had mine replaced this spring before a track day. The clutch feel was much improved after. If I were you, I wouldn’t mess with the existing MC, just get the upgraded part.
I think I'm gonna have to replace my clutch master cylinder as well! I was looking at the one from Summit Racing its listed for Super Charged engines and has a bigger bore. I was surprise to see one for a Super Charged engine but it has a bigger bore so I'm thinking about it and the price is not much higher. I was thinking about the Tick brake master cylinder. Does anyone have a opinion on the bigger bore for super-charged Corvettes from Summit?
C6 6speed not shifting while engine on.
