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hoping someone can help me with this. 2005 c6 manual 45k miles. Had the engine rebuilt recently. Got her back in & everything was good on first start up until it warmed up & went straight into "reduced engine power" mode with a cel. Scanned codes & they came back with 6 codes initially. Cleared the codes & the second i started her up it came right back. Did a throttle relearn procedure that's in the scanner & did the same thing immediately. When the car is in acc mode the throttle body & acc pedal have complete signal to each other but as soon as it starts up it'll throw the code & run rough. The throttle body loses complete signal from the pedal. If it's cold it will not do until it's warmed up. I've checked all my ground wires & they are all good. I cannot wrap my head around this. Battery was out of the car for roughly 6 months while the engine was being rebuilt so it didn't get any power for that period of time. Battery is practically new & was on a tender for a few days before going back in. Any ideas? New accelerater? Throttle body? I'm stumped!
Dude, if I don’t understand what you’re saying how am I going to help you ??…and I’m not getting hostile so or insulting you so best to find an auto electric or diagnostic shop in your area…there is NO golden bullet in this diagnosis…good luck and BTW turning wrenches and diagnosing require 2 different skill sets.
That's why im on here. I'm not an electrical guru when it comes to cars. Can I figure it out with help? Sure. With help that is. Obviously I can turn wrenches like the rest of us but just thought I could get some help from the corvette community with this issue. Like I said I appreciate whatever help I can get.
Silver Blade TBs are a bit notorious for this… TPS becomes erratic when warm/hot. I’d recommend opening up the cover and spraying contact cleaner on the potentiometer whenever you get the error. Otherwise, you’ll need to replace it.
Thank you. I will do that today & see what happens. I just think it's really odd that it's only going into reduced engine power when it's warm. My thought was if it's an electrical issue like a ground it would do it immediately upon starting everytime. I will take it apart & get some cleaner. Thanks.
Silver Blade TBs are a bit notorious for this… TPS becomes erratic when warm/hot. I’d recommend opening up the cover and spraying contact cleaner on the potentiometer whenever you get the error. Otherwise, you’ll need to replace it.
ok so i ended up buying a new dorman throttle body. Was cheap enough to justify the purchase & figured if it didn't work i could just return it. The issue still remains though but now when it goes into reduced engine mode the car isn't stumbling just has reduced throttle & will actually stay running like normal. It's opening up too 100% throttle position when the accelerator is pressed just takes a while to raise the rpms. Also I'm only throwing one code (P2135). I did read somewhere that it needs a throttle relearn procedure done & it consists of driving the car up to 44mph, idling for 3 minutes, shutting it off for 60 seconds then letting it idle for another 3 minutes. I also read that there is no relearn procedure for these. Either way I feel like I'm in the right direction with it atleast running "normal" when the reduced engine light is on. Would you think that the accelerator pedal could be bad?
Aftermarket Silver Blades have different TPS than GM models. Their TPS settings are also different and even vary quite a bit from unit to unit… this tends to cause REP. There is probably a seller on eBay that would let you loan a used GM unit to find out for sure.
I have seen quite a few youtubers talk about these & they replace just the sensor on the TB. I decided to just replace the whole thing but didn't know an aftermarket one would be different. I'm just curious what would cause this considering the car ran perfectly fine before the lifter took out my timing, I took the engine out, rebuilt it & put it all back exactly the way it was before. The TB sat in a closed tote for 6 months & then all of the sudden it doesn't work? So temperamental lol. I miss the days of cable driven TBs. Much easier to diagnose. I do have an accelerator pedal coming tomorrow so I'll throw that on for s&g & if that doesn't work I'll just return both of them & put the oem ones on. I will open the original TB & clean that with some electronics spray like you suggested.
relearn the crank sensor? First time hearing this. Im not sure if my scanner can do this function or if i would even need a scanner to do that. Would you mind telling me how to do this before I search this procedure?
If the crank sensor was bad wouldn't throw a code for that? Also think it would be misfiring like crazy if it would even start. I've been wrong before though.