I have a new to me 2005 with 104k miles on it. Just did a 2500 mile road trip without issue and the last stop before coming home I get an error message about shifting into reverse at shutdown.

Got home and did not realize the car locked itself into ACC mode and killed the battery. Currently jump starting with a heavy duty set of cables and the car won’t crank. Cluster goes dark when I hit the crank button but there’s juice in the battery.

is there a special method to jumpstart the car?

Also, I understand I have to replace the sensor for the transmission, but is there a way to disable it?

 

Installed a brand new battery and it still won’t start. Keeps acting like it’s not seeing the key fob. I’ve tried putting the key fob in the slot in the glove box without luck. Seems to recognize it if I waive it around in front of the glove box, the cluster lights up.

When I hit the button to crank the engine, the cluster goes dark and nothing happens.

 

If the car is new to you read the owners manual…read the notice below !!
…also make sure your new battery is FULLY charged and may be a good idea to replace your FOB battery…a fresh battery will read 3.2 volts…make sure your battery terminals are tight…things like cell phones, cell phone chargers and other electronic devices can cause RF interference with the key FOB.

 

The FOB goes into the back up antenna slot this way…even with a dead FOB battery the car should start.

 

OK. New battery - make sure it's charged. Are you still getting the "Shift To Reverse" message? If so, consider replacing both the of the reverse sensors on the transmission.
Keep us posted.

 

Will bank that you have problems at the starter solenoid with the no crank problems.

Its where the alternator and battery cable connected together on the starter solenoid terminal, and could be if car has headers and no heat sheild on starter termial, then terminal that the the cables connects together has cracked off/or the terminal nut has come loose, or the plunger ring and contact rings on the solenoid have worn out.

New starter solenoid is $24 off amazon, and heat sheild less than $20 if headers and need to install starter heat sheild if one is not in play.

Short of that ,and no power to starter solenoid on its coil side, then could be crank relay on bottom of BCM has gone bad.



Here, the solenoid terminal has cracked off, so starter motor is not getting power when the solenoid coil is energized, and the Brown wire with tan clip, is the wire you want to check to make sure that the solenoid is getting power when the BCM is sending the run command to energize the starter relay in the engine fuse box as well.
Note, BCM will only run the starter for 5 seconds ,and if engine is not started in that amount of time, BCM will time out sending power to the starter.


As for getting to starter wiring if stock manifold are in play, then mirror from bottom of the car, to see the terminals with the battery disconnected in the first place.

The replacement solenoid will be ACDelco p/n 10503939 or Waiglobal #66-161.

Run crank relay is on the bottom of BCM, as indedicated by dashed lines.
[img]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/640x480/c6_console_fuse_box1_eb807b580249ca2cc84 9da75b55f7985bd1469a2.jpg[/img]

As for problems with the Fob, could be loose nut on starter solenoid that is not allowing the alternator to charge the battery correctly, or could be that you just need to remove the center bezel, to get to the RCDLR to either clean the connectors or pins, or may need to pull the board to deal with some cold solder joints on it on it header pins, or could be that someone swapped out the standard bulbs in the dash to LCD's or you added something aftermarket to the car that is putting out RF noise instead, and this is what is blocking Fob signal to the RCDLR.


And before you do any of the above, disconnect the battery cables from the battery, touch the cables together away from the battery, and reconnect the battery. This will do a hard reset on all the car modules, which any of them may have low voltaged glitched when the car was tried to be started with battery too low in the first place.

 

Tried the fob slot with both. Both batteries are good.

Plugged in with a high end scanner, Cleared all body codes and it started right up. No more reverse message either

 

Glad to hear you're back on the road again!

 

I have a 2005 manual and the "put car in reverse" message will only appear when you shut it down and you haven't put it in reverse.The door release button won't work if you don't park in reverse so that is a good reminder to do so. Some find this a big issue but it will only take a short while before parking in reverse becomes a habit. Enjoy your new ride.

 

I don’t mind it but when the car is truly in reverse but it doesn’t register it’s a pain.

 

Replaced the reverse light switch. Car is acting up again. Will not crank. Error message saying shift into reverse.

If I crawl under the car and jumper the wire at the sensor reverse lights don’t come on and dash still says shift into reverse.

tried manually putting voltage to the starter with the car in run and no luck.

stuck on side of road. Need help

 

Wanted to add that with the starter jumped it cranks but will not fire even though car is in run

 

Here’s a video

 

Do you at least have a 12 volt test light and a DVOM and know how to use it ??..unfortunately we can't diagnose your car for you over the Internet...if the car cranks jumping the crank relay we know the "load" side of the starting system is functional...you have to worry about the "control" side....will it start with the FOB in the glovebox "slot" ??...that backup antenna where you put the FOB has to work whether the FOB is good or not for the car to start...if testing is over your head find an auto electric shop as they are the most knowledgeable.

 

Fob is in the slot.

12V+ at the reverse light switch on the trans. In theory the computer is seeing the reverse light switch as good

 

Can you remove the connector at the clutch and see if you have continuity across the switch when you engage it ??...just because you have 12 volts going to it doesn't mean it's going across.

 

 

The reverse light switch or clutch pedal switch?

 

Why you messing with the reverse light switch ??...it has nothing to do with the car not starting.

 

Clutch pedal...look at the wiring diagram....we can see if you are getting power to the ECM fuse at the BCM when the start button is pushed...you will need 2 people to do this...use a test light at the fuse....we may need to check if the backup antenna is good...you will need a voltmeter for this using the AC VOLTAGE scale.