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Get 555 timers from ebay 10x 50x of them or 100x etc.. very cheap examples all over ebay to play with
Then look up some increasingly useful examples
Here is a variable delay, like to make a turbo timer circuit or fuel pump prime with a little dial you can change the run time https://elonics.org/adjustable-auto-...uit-using-555/
The point of this is to take control over your vehicle, your exact situation, your learning how to solve problems by introducing your own circuits integrating with the vehicles instead of having to buy 'black mysterious boxes' that do things for you.
Using the 555 you could make dimmers and noise devices, alarms, drive leds, run fuel pumps and fans for timed periods, or any automotive relays, control lighting and electrical
it never hurts to learn about basic rc circuits
here is my example of relay driver transistor box less than $5 of parts that runs a couple automotive relays for fuel pump and fan
I run it from an arduino instead of a 555 timer I've coded some basic security features into the controller in order to run the fuel pumps/starter. It also runs the pumps longer before cranking than the OEM ecu so I don't have to key on, key off, key on, crank to get a full prime before cranking every time which was really annoying. I found this issue with the dead head fuel rails during hot re-fire they rail would drain for whatever reason when it sits and double key was getting old.
Here is my first attempt at making a oil/trans temp sensor setup with fan controller , because the OEM ecu does not control transmission fans or monitor oil temp in my gen3 application so this was really welcome
Again to dive the automotive relays, 2n2222 darlington pairs
little LED screen shows temps and fans and allows changing settings
To calibrate I used a hotplate
Just record temperature vs ADC input and curve fit for an equation , then one equation runs in the code to determine oil and water temp from the cheap sensors
With these cheap parts you gain control knowledge over fans, temp sensors, pumps, lights, security features, whatever you can imagine
This is actually a pretty good way to go about doing it, but with all the electrical issues that C6s are known to have I don't want to go around cutting into the stock wires. Especially in the engine bay. I tried to look up different time delay switches and even 8866 fuse relay harnesses to avoid cutting into stock wiring but couldn't find any.
Typically in OEM fuel systems the OEM relay is insufficient anyways. Normally when you buy a car with a powerful engine you will upgrade and replace the original fuel pump relays anyways. So during this necessary process, which I consider necessary(cwhatididther), thats when you would include the 1 extra trigger wire for the arduino/555 timer to engage the upgraded fuel pump relay however you see fit (button/switch/keyon/whatever trigger you want). That way you kill two birds with 1 necessary mod
For my fuel system with internal powerful pumps in the 600rwhp/each range I like this box from OEM SAAB vehicles
This oem water proof box contains 1 60amp OEM relay which can easily support a walbro450 or similar fuel pumps for 600-800rwhp gasoline apps.
It also has extra relays 40amp for other nearby equipment like water injection pump or fans or whatever. I jumped one of them to the arduino for theft/security and extra fuel pump prime time application for example.
Anytime I 'upgrade' wiring in any vehicle I always try to find an OEM solution with OEM apparatus like this one. To ensure 200k 500k miles of reliability
I look forward to your results, didn´t know that you have access to the fuel line in the left rear wheelarch behind the fenderliner. What I do know that there is also the locoation of the 4-line plug powering the fuel pump and transmitting the fuel sending signal. I cut mine out and soldered the 4 cables with watertight sealant because this little plug was the reason I (unnecessarily) did the whole fuel pump job.....
I apologize for the late reply but I was doing a whole lot of trouble shooting. I was going to install the external check valve on the feed line between fuel pump feed line and frame feed line but the stock line started peeling at the tip. Long story short I was able to get the stock line installed without it leaking so I didn't get to test that theory with the check valve near the end of the tank.
I extended the fuel pump prime to 4 seconds and had no luck either. My next choice is to install the more expensive ac delco pump as well.
Let me ask you, did your extended crank issue go away after installing the more expensive ACDelco pump? What pump did you go with originally when you first replaced it? I know you said your issue was the $5 plug but I would like to know if your extended crank issue go away with the more expensive ACDelco pump. How did you know your plug was bad? Did it just not turn on at some point? I know my crank, starter relay and fuel pump are all turning on when they're commanded to so I don't think my issue is electrical. I'm able to see on HP TUNERS that when I start up the car the fuel pump command DC is 99.6%
starter relay says "on" and crank request says "yes."
