I have a bone stock 2013 c6 m6 corvette with around 110k miles on it. I’m wanting to do a cam install and was wanting help picking out the parts and figuring out what’s best. I’ve landed in wanting to do a BTR stage 3 cam. As of right now I’m looking at a kit offered by MichiganMotorsports.

here is all I’ve gathered

BTR stage 3 cam kit(cam/springs/retainers/push rods/timing cover & water pump gaskets/ crank bolt)-https://www.michiganmotorsports.com/...7-btr-cam-kit/

C5-r chain/3 bolt conversation - https://www.michiganmotorsports.com/...AaAtiUEALw_wcB


CHE Trunnion kit - https://www.michiganmotorsports.com/...EaAtFBEALw_wcB


is there anything I’m missing besides an exhaust system from the headers back. Is there anything in the cam kit I shouldn’t use? Thank you guys I would really appreciate the input and guidance!

 

That cam wont work with the stock stall, youll need an aftermarket convertor. I would also for sure do lifters while your there with that kind of mileage. Johnson short travel link bars, buy once cry once.

 

You will definitely need a stall converter with that size of cam. As far as the lifters. That all depends on if you want to pull the heads. You will also need a custom tune.

 

I apologize, I meant m6.

 

i apologize, i meant m6.

 

oh then your good, rock and roll... just do the lifters.

 

That cam has 13.5 degrees of valve overlap, just something to think about if you drive on the street......

 

With that mileage a few other parts I would definitely add to the list is a new harmonic
balancer, new oil pump and new lifters with new lifter trays.

Also, you mentioned exhaust. I would definitely add a set of long tube headers and x pipe to the build.

 

I would also replace the lifters with some Johnson 2110R's and new GM lifter trays at that mileage. And so because of that you will also need head gaskets and head bolts (I would go with ARP).

As for the cam, why so big? If it were me, I would go with the Cam Motion Titan 2 LS3 cam. Will be easier to drive and much less stress on the valve train so much better reliability. And you will get 90 to 95% of the performance.

Also, skip the cam kit. Buy the cam, springs, etc. and wait on the push rods. There is no way to know for sure before hand what pushrod length you will need. So a cam kit with 7.400 length pushrods is a shot in the dark. You really need to measure otherwise it is a gamble. So get a pushrod length measuring tool.

Other parts would be a harmonic balancer bolt (ARP ftw), front cover gasket, water pump gaskets just in case. A flywheel locking tool and an HB installation tool are also highly recommended.

 

yeah fair point, I never understood why these cam kits come with pushrods. I guess a lot of people dont bother to check pushrod length to set preload, there was a time when I didn't but... too critical of a thing to overlook I feel.

 

I try to estimate the pushrod length I need when I have changed my cam and lifters or went with a different thickness head gasket. You can get pretty close. Typically, an aftermarket cam will have a smaller base circle of the cam lobes versus a stock cam. And the base circle is usually an amount smaller that is the difference between the new cam's lift and the stock cam's lift.

But I always measure. It is particularly important on a Johnson lifter such as the 2110R's. They have about half the plunger travel as a stock LS7 lifter and have a specific and pretty tight spec for the preload.

 

What pushrod length did you end up using with your Johnson 2110 lifters?
And what exactly is your set up? I know you had told me before but I can’t remember exactly.
btw I just got my car back from the shop from having the new heads and cam put in and I’m so happy because the car sounds so much better than it did before. That loud ticking noise that I couldn’t get rid of is gone and the car is so much more enjoyable to drive. I ended up using the 7.400 push rods with the new set up on my Johnson lifters and I know the installer didn’t measure so I’m probably going to pull a rocker off this weekend and measure just to make sure I’m not running too much preload because like you said it’s really critical on those lifters. I’m running stock untouched 821 heads, factory head gaskets, cam motion titan 2 cam and the Johnson 2110R lifters. I’m hoping my current preload is somewhere between .035 and .050 but I won’t know until I measure. I wonder what the absolute maximum preload you can run on those lifters is without being in the danger zone?!

OP - definitely do new lifters and at a minimum get a good quality set of GM LS7 lifters, but I agree with Space, it’s worth the money to get the Johnson lifters and to have peace of mind. I would strongly recommend changing that stock oil pump with that many miles on it also. A stock replacement is perfectly fine. As far as that BTR stage 3 cam I know it’s extremely popular and a lot of people love it but it’s a pretty good size cam with a lot of overlap. If it’s a daily driver and you’re looking for really good drivability you might want to shop around but if it’s a weekend toy Then with a good tuner I wouldn’t hesitate to put that cam in

 

If I remember correctly, I had only changed from stock lifters to the Johnsons on the stock LS3 cam so needed a 7.350 length pushrod assuming a stock preload of 0.080 and going to a preload of 0.035. I believe after the install, I measured right at 0.040 preload. After that, I changed to the LS9 cam and LS9 head gaskets which are slightly thicker. When I measured for pushrod length with that setup, there wasn't any significant change so I was able to keep my existing pushrods. The thing about the Johnsons is they designed them as a true drop-in lifter. While the preload is less than a stock lifter, the plunger dept was changed that exact amount. So if all that you are doing is changing the lifters and nothing else, pushrod length should stay the same.

Glad to hear that the new heads fixed the ticking problem and your car is running good. Definitely worth checking to make sure you have the right length pushrods. It's difficult to find accurate information but the Johnson's are supposed to have about the same plunger travel of the stock lifter. So about 0.200. So technically there is a lot of margin for error. But I assume that internal design of the Johnson requires that shorter preload for a reason. Likely the plunger and oil flow through the lifter are significantly different than stock and so too much preload would likely affect the proper functioning of the lifter. I don't know the physics of how oil flows in and out of a lifter but I'm sure proper function of a lifter requires a certain cushion/reservoir of oil under the plunger to properly dampen valvetrain vibrations. And that will depend on the internal design. Same should be true in a stock lifter. Probably could or would lead to increased wear and tear on other engine components. Likely accelerated valve seat and valve wear if the opening and closing events aren't "cushioned". Probably could also affect the proper amount of pressure of the rollers travel on the cam lobes. I'm sure there are engineers out there who could shed more light on this as I am just guessing.

As for your setup, assuming you went from a stock LS3 engine to the Titan 2 with the Johnsons, lift is increased by about 0.044 on the intake side and 0.062 on the exhaust side. So the base circle of the cam will likely have been reduced requiring a longer pushrod. But Preload will be about 0.045 less with the Johnsons. But the Johnson's also have a little bit deeper cup. I would bet you may need a longer pushrod, 7.425. Just guessing so definitely check.

 

Okay, I have now gathered a new list of parts and stuff based on your guys recommendation.

Cam : Cam Motion Titan 2 LS3 Camshaft (222/230-113+3) 3-bolt, 5150 Steel Alloy Camshaft ($399.99) - https://cammotion.com/camshafts/tita...TRhDLiLLVTlw6C

Push Rods : (Undetermined) - not yet determined as would need to take measurements

Springs/Retainers : BTR PLATINUM LS DUAL SPRING KIT - .660" LIFT - SK001 with Titanium Retainers ($309.99) - https://briantooleyracing.com/btr-pl...HLGHSb_lRQ9NIz

Gaskets/Crank Bolt : BTR Cam Gasket Kit -w/ ARP Damper Bolt ($65.99) - https://www.michiganmotorsports.com/...hoCTMEQAvD_BwE

C5-R Chain/ 3 Bolt Conversion Kit : Katech C5-R Timing Chain with Cam Sprocket, ARP Cam Bolts, Crank Gear, and Dampener ($239.99) - https://www.michiganmotorsports.com/...hoCTMEQAvD_BwE

Trunnion Kit : CHE – Trunnion Kit ($239.99) - https://gwatneyperformance.com/che-t...RoCLu0QAvD_BwE

Lifters : Johnson – Set of 16 Drop In Slow Leakdown Rate Lifter (2110R) ($766.32) - https://gwatneyperformance.com/johns...hoCFaYQAvD_BwE

Lifter Trays : (Undetermined) - I know I need OEM, but cant find any that clearly state that. I was thinking of doing the ACDELCO ones (a link would be greatly appreciated).

Head Gaskets : (Undetermined) - need help on which exact ones to get (a link would be greatly appreciated).

Head Bolts : (Undetermined) - I know I need ARP head bolts but I see so many listed and need help on which exact ones to get (a link would be greatly appreciated).

Harmonic Balancer: (Undetermined) - need help on which exact one to get (a link would be greatly appreciated).

As stated, I still need help finding some parts, but if you guys don't mind taking gander at this new list and telling me what you think, what should swap out, or if there are any other recommended parts that would be greatly appreciated! I would be doing all the labor/part installs by myself, so if there are any tips/tricks/things to be aware of, I would love to know! Also, how much should I expect the tuning to cost? Thank you guys for the input!

 

Lifter trays: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...BoCYrMQAvD_BwE

Head gaskets: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12610046 You will need two of these.

ARP head bolts: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-3610

HB, I would go with an ATI or a PowerBond. Is your car a base model or a GS? The reason I ask is it will make a difference as to the appropriate part to get.

As for the rest you parts, looks good to me.

 

it is a base c6. Thank you for the input!

 

PowerBond Race: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=5512&jsn=616

ATI: https://www.jegs.com/i/ATI/085/91726...hoCS6MQAvD_BwE

The Summit Brand balancer is also good: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...RoC6oYQAvD_BwE

I personally have the PowerBond Race but mine is the version for a dry sump. But any of these would be excellent.

One thing to note, is that which ever HB you get, if it has a key way, you will need to fill that with some RTV to prevent a possible leak.

Another thing, it is not a bad idea to pin the HB to the crank as well. It is never a bad idea to do this when increasing power levels. And it's another of those "while you are in there" things. And if you ever contemplate getting a supercharger, it will be ready to go. Pinning Kit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...hoCUl4QAvD_BwE

 

Sounds good, I will pull a rocker off today and check to see where I’m at on preload. I went from a BTR stage 2 cam to this Titan 2. On the BTR cam I wanna say I was around .050 on preload last time I checked. I assume it’s going to be about the same with the Titan 2 cam but I’d rather be safe than sorry. I’d rather keep the preload at.055 or less.

 

Thank you for the input and links, much appreciated! Any idea on how much i should expect to pay for a tune or what number I should search for?

 

Dyno tunes typically run between $400 and $800 depending on the mods.
With a BTR stage 3 cam and full exhaust on a M6 LS3 car I’d say you’d make somewhere around 475-490 rwhp