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Hi, I have 2009 Base C6, Automatic car. I wanted to upgrade my pads and rotors for autocross adventure and mainly spirited club driving events. I read a few articles on this forum and allot of information an opinions by several good sources. It was really informative and educational, I was thinking just upgrade my JL9 rotors to DBAs 4000 or 5000 series rotors with Carbotech Bobcat 1521 pads. Plus, brake fluid change it out my DOT 3 fluid to DOT 4 or a higher racing type heat capacity fluid with stainless brake lines. I believe this will meet my expectations for improved braking under these aggressive conditions and budget constraints. I wanted to see if any of sources have any other suggestions for other upgrades and sources for these items? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Mel
What tires, since brakes are only going to be as good as the increased grip to the ground. Without increasing tire grip, just means your going to lock the tires up quickly/get into the abs system with less pedal pressure with better brakes.
And if you think that the stock jl9 brakes are not stopping you fast enough now, then when was the last time you power bleed the brake fluid, including cycling the abs pump to get the old water soak fluid out of it as well.
Short of say better performance tires, and maybe R compound tires to make better brakes work correctly,
if your running A/S tires, then Prestone dot 4 will have high enough dry heat boiling point and autozone duralast pads will fine for what your doing on parking lot tracks.
If you want to go larger rotors, then J55 rotors and just the oem J55 brake brackets will push your Jl9 calipers out to work with the larger J55 rotors.
As for brake pads, Carbotech Bobcat 1521 will work with most parking lot autocross tracks with summer performance dot tires, but if running longer autocross dedicated tracks and more than one lap at a time, then pads with higher working heat ranges would be better.
As for rest of car, change out shocks to DRM's, change out swaybars to Z51, and change out front trans spring to Fe3 for the trans type in the car, so front end is not over diving into every corner on weight transfer.
What tires, since brakes are only going to be as good as the increased grip to the ground. Without increasing tire grip, just means your going to lock the tires up quickly/get into the abs system with less pedal pressure with better brakes.
And if you think that the stock jl9 brakes are not stopping you fast enough now, then when was the last time you power bleed the brake fluid, including cycling the abs pump to get the old water soak fluid out of it as well.
Short of say better performance tires, and maybe R compound tires to make better brakes work correctly,
if your running A/S tires, then Prestone dot 4 will have high enough dry heat boiling point and autozone duralast pads will fine for what your doing on parking lot tracks.
If you want to go larger rotors, then J55 rotors and just the oem J55 brake brackets will push your Jl9 calipers out to work with the larger J55 rotors.
As for brake pads, Carbotech Bobcat 1521 will work with most parking lot autocross tracks with summer performance dot tires, but if running longer autocross dedicated tracks and more than one lap at a time, then pads with higher working heat ranges would be better.
As for rest of car, change out shocks to DRM's, change out swaybars to Z51, and change out front trans spring to Fe3 for the trans type in the car, so front end is not over diving into every corner on weight transfer.
Hi, I'm currently running Michelin Super Sport tires. I'm currently in the process power bleeding the brakes and cycling the ABS system. I did acquire the front and rear Z51 sway bars for the car as well. But, I need to install them still. However, my auto shifter and cable has left me stranded in park for now. I placed my order for new shifter and shifter cable. I'm looking at installing them this weekend. If everything arrives in time. I really appreciate the information that provides more insight on other areas of improvement for near future upgrades. Again, thank you and everyone that has chimed in on my brake questions.
If the cable is still fine, but grommets for the ends are shot, then you don't need to replace the entire cable, just the end grommets.
As for once you have the new grommets in the cable, before you install the cable end on the trans lever post, remove red cover/pop open the cable length adjuster, put trans lever into drive by hand, shifter lever into drive, then close the adjuster to that cable length, then slip the red hood piece back on.
Also, when swapping out the front trans spring to FE3 to resolve the front end diver issues under braking, make sure to get the FE3 front trans spring for automatic trans car. The trans adds more weight to the car to the tune of about 100lbs, and the FE3 trans spring for auto, is slightly stiffer than the FE3 trans spring for the manual transmission cars.
If the cable is still fine, but grommets for the ends are shot, then you don't need to replace the entire cable, just the end grommets.
As for once you have the new grommets in the cable, before you install the cable end on the trans lever post, remove red cover/pop open the cable length adjuster, put trans lever into drive by hand, shifter lever into drive, then close the adjuster to that cable length, then slip the red hood piece back on.
Also, when swapping out the front trans spring to FE3 to resolve the front end diver issues under braking, make sure to get the FE3 front trans spring for automatic trans car. The trans adds more weight to the car to the tune of about 100lbs, and the FE3 trans spring for auto, is slightly stiffer than the FE3 trans spring for the manual transmission cars.
Dano 523,
I really appreciate your input and sharing your knowledge with us. In addition, I did purchased extra bushings as well. I'll check back with you when I'm ready to look for FE3 auto trans spring for the car. Again, Thanks.
C6 Base Brake Upgrades
