Offset lifter
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Instructor
Joined: Aug 2022
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Offset lifter
got my heads off and noticed that the lifter in the right is sort of not square , is this a problem ? I didn’t even mess with the lifters or tray. Should I try to correct it and place it square like the one on the left?
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Problem, yes and no.
The no part is that the lifters are under pre load to being with by the rockers and push rods, so clip does not come in to play when everthing is to gether.
The yes part, when lifter is remove, then could end up with the retainer clip flying out, to allow the lifter assembly to unload.
So on that note, something like a drill press, where you can clamp the lifter down at is roller shaft side, then install a drill bit backwards in the chuck to use the press to slowly press the piston down in the body, then reset the retainer clip back in its groove.
Also to note, go slowly pressing the piston down, since it filled with oil, and the oil will have to flow between the sides of the pistons od, and the ID of the body, which is a tight tolerance (read may not be able to press the piston is just by hand to get it downward to reset the clip).
HD lifter and all it parts,
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 209
Likes: 27
Problem, yes and no.
The no part is that the lifters are under pre load to being with by the rockers and push rods, so clip does not come in to play when everthing is to gether.
The yes part, when lifter is remove, then could end up with the retainer clip flying out, to allow the lifter assembly to unload.
So on that note, something like a drill press, where you can clamp the lifter down at is roller shaft side, then install a drill bit backwards in the chuck to use the press to slowly press the piston down in the body, then reset the retainer clip back in its groove.
Also to note, go slowly pressing the piston down, since it filled with oil, and the oil will have to flow between the sides of the pistons od, and the ID of the body, which is a tight tolerance (read may not be able to press the piston is just by hand to get it downward to reset the clip).
HD lifter and all it parts,
oh I see so the retainer is only when the lifter isn’t on The engine . I think I found out why some clips were broken check this out, from intake to exhaust the pushrods are .075 different. There’s no way that’s normal right?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 209
Likes: 27
Problem, yes and no.
The no part is that the lifters are under pre load to being with by the rockers and push rods, so clip does not come in to play when everthing is to gether.
The yes part, when lifter is remove, then could end up with the retainer clip flying out, to allow the lifter assembly to unload.
So on that note, something like a drill press, where you can clamp the lifter down at is roller shaft side, then install a drill bit backwards in the chuck to use the press to slowly press the piston down in the body, then reset the retainer clip back in its groove.
Also to note, go slowly pressing the piston down, since it filled with oil, and the oil will have to flow between the sides of the pistons od, and the ID of the body, which is a tight tolerance (read may not be able to press the piston is just by hand to get it downward to reset the clip).
HD lifter and all it parts,
also with the clip wedged like that it’s still technically doing its job right even tho I’m not going to leave it like that. What it’s wedged between isn’t an individually moving part so it won’t throw the clip right ? It’s the Entire lifter than moves up and down the cam lobe? so in theory if I couldn’t get the clip back into its flush orientation/ spot if the pushrod seat fine in the lifter as is with the clip wedged I could theoretically run them like that ?
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From: Erlanger, Kentucky
Yes, those clips like that are a problem. I would replace all of the lifters with something better. Johnsons is what I would use.
As for the different pushrods, it can happen that an engine needs a different length pushrod between the intake and exhaust. Just depends on how the cam was ground. Still not a bad idea to confirm the proper length pushrod that is needed to make sure this is correct.
As for the different pushrods, it can happen that an engine needs a different length pushrod between the intake and exhaust. Just depends on how the cam was ground. Still not a bad idea to confirm the proper length pushrod that is needed to make sure this is correct.
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Hence would pulling lifters apart to make sure piston seals are still fine/not bur city, burs marring the seal plate and piston valve seal surfaces need to be cleaned up and valve seal plate flipped,
Before,
After clean up,
Note, if the roller show any signs of wear, or roller bearings showing any signs of wear, then replace the lifter
Hence its toller and it bearings that you really want to check to being with, since unless you want to replace roller and bearings (which are hard to find that are not import junk), then waste of time doing any thing with internals of lifters to rebuild them as well.
And yes, when HD's was running solid lifters, normal to replace rollers and bearing on solid lifter bodies, instead of replacing the entire lifter instead.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 209
Likes: 27
Yes, those clips like that are a problem. I would replace all of the lifters with something better. Johnsons is what I would use.
As for the different pushrods, it can happen that an engine needs a different length pushrod between the intake and exhaust. Just depends on how the cam was ground. Still not a bad idea to confirm the proper length pushrod that is needed to make sure this is correct.
As for the different pushrods, it can happen that an engine needs a different length pushrod between the intake and exhaust. Just depends on how the cam was ground. Still not a bad idea to confirm the proper length pushrod that is needed to make sure this is correct.
which Johnson’s did you end up going with 2110s or 2116s?
