No Start Issue
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Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
Do you own a know how to use a DMM ??...if you have the crappy OE battery terminals make sure they are clean and TIGHT...do you have ignition function....acc'y mode and "run" mode ??...if you put one lead of the DMM on battery negative and other lead on the engine block what does the DMM read when trying to start the car ??...unfortunately no one silver bullet here with your no start...what year is the car ??...any recent maintenance performed ??
Last edited by C5 Diag; Apr 30, 2026 at 08:02 PM.
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
Well if you have a charged battery with good voltage that doesn't mean anything...have your battery load tested first...how old is the battery ??..sorry misread your post...thought you said battery "changed" !!
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15,595
Likes: 4,057
From: Cape Coral, Florida
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
First off what year is the car ??...I'm asking about the starter solenoid "clicking"...trying to diagnose this for you is next to impossible without a factory level scan tool, a DMM and 12 volt test light...if your skills don't go beyond making sure your battery terminals are tight I would suggest taking the car to an auto electric shop for a diagnosis...there are MANY things we need to check for your concern...great 2 part video on a no start...you can see what steps are involved...did you put the FOB into the glovebox back up antenna slot ??...any clicking coming from the dash area ??
Last edited by C5 Diag; Apr 30, 2026 at 09:38 PM.
Thread Starter
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update (2011 coupe, 6 spd)..took both batteries to get tested/load tested to day, the 'old' one was low, the new checked out ok. As I mentioned in the first post I had tried to start the car and the battery immediately drained- all lights went on the dash and doors wouldn't open, charged it again and same issue, replaced the battery - same. Today I again replaced the battery (the new one I had put in last night), and this time everything was dead, except the door/security light, and the radio, the rear hatch would open as well as the gas door. ...decided that the one thing operating was the radio......pulled the fuse for on-star/radio...can works as normal, reinstalled the fuse, and it now seems to be ok (going to leave the fuse out until I can do some kind of test to see if the radio is drawing too much power, but at this point it all seems to be normal??
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
The battery isn't "immediately" draining just because some lights went out...so what you're saying is you pulled the onstar fuse and now the car is starting ??...the radio isn't going to completely drain the battery.
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I would install a charged battery, connect the cables and push the start/ignition...no click just everything would go blank....no noise of any kind, I did pull the on-star/radio fuse (both go to 1 fuse ) and now it appears to be ok (same battery, only difference thing I ended up doing was pulling the fuse, that's what's confusing (currently the fuse is staying removed until I check for drain)
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
Unless you charge your battery and note the voltage and then check it in a few hours I doubt the onstar/radio fuse is causing a huge battery drain...since the VCIM module (Onstar) is on the high speed CAN bus the VCIM can cause a communication issue that can keep the car from starting...without a factory level scan tool you would see that you can't communicate with the car.
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I might add that the battery was checked and charged at the facility I took it to (voltage was correct), it was fully charged when I re-installed, and upon trying to start it was done..... didn't need to re-check, it didn't have enough charge to even open the door to get out, it needed to be re-charged...that's why I'm at a loss