Ok guys.. Just put on the new rotors, slotted and drilled from Sportbrakes, and now I need new pads. Which ones are good ones. raybesots? I am not autocrossing, but I do go very fast in it and tend to drive hard. I hear the Hawk plus or pro ones are good, but can be noisy. I do not want any noise coming from these. What can you recommend? Price?

Thanks.

Matt

 

You will get other opinions but my pad of choice is>>>

Porterfield Performance Pads

R4S

Michael

 

Carbotech Panthers... Brakeman #3's... or Axxis Ultimates..

shoot over to www.zeckhausen.com and give them a ring.

 

But do they make noise? For the best bang for the buck, should I just get Raybestos? Do the Hawk make noise?

 

Hawk HP's doesn't make noise (be sure to bed them properly) the HP+ does...The + also puts up with higher temperatures if you want to open track the car...Most street guys should get the plain HP. They are great pads. I race on HT10s and have used the HP and HPS+ on street cars very successfully...I'm now partial to street pad manufacturers that prove themselves to me in a sedan racing environment (very harsh)...

 

Okay, I asked this on another thread, but no answer.

For all of you with advice on what to use, could you please give us a part number for a C6 application and where to buy them. I have done all kinds of searches and don't find applications for C6's. I know people have said they are the same as for a C5, but just as many have said they are not.

I don't want to mail order pads and have them not working after going to a lot of work (pulling the old ones off). PLEASE supply part numbers that you know will work on a C6.

Thanks - I'm desperate

 

Hawk pads which have great stopping power are also high in dust. The harder the pad compound or he greater the stopping abilty of the pad the more noise the pad will make when not used properly.

Race pads when used under the conditions which they were disgned to do dont squeek, but used on the street with minimal brake force needed will squeek.
Drilled and Slotted rotors help create more noise too. Many ppl like the look of D/S rotors but find under high speed braking they seem to make a whinning noise, which is the pad being scrapped by the holes and slots. Normal noise.

Performace cars need performace brakes = dust and noise. Ceramic pads cut the dust and noise down, and also cut the braking power under extreem conditions by about 5% longer to stop your car. So there are trade offs.

Good luck

 

For Porterfields: R4S pads AP 731 AP 732 order directly from Porterfield
Michael

 

The brakes on the C5 and the C6 are made by PBR of Australia. The calipers are almost Identical. The C6 caliper is slightly beefier and that is it. The pads are the same.

What are you going to be useing the car for ( what kind of driving )? Many ppl have use the PFC-Z pad from Autozone. Great pad.

 

How do i bed them? What is that? I will have someone install these on (tirepros). What should I tell them. Also... others say that the HP's will make noise if I only use the vette on the street. What do you think?

 

Which Hawks?? HP+s ? or S? or ?? if they are the HP+ then YES they will make lots of noise and will have more dust then an Oklahoma dust storm. Wash often

Very simpilfied Version.
For brakes to work properly there must be some brake pad material on the rotor. SO when the brake are applied the pad is in contact with the rotor which has some brake pad material on. The only way to accompish this transfer of brake pad material is with heat. There is no other way.

To Bed the brakes is very easy to do.

1: go find a nice straight road with NO traffic.
2. accerlerate up to 40 mph then step on the brakes hard. Hard enough to ALMOST activate the ABS. slow down to 5 MPH.

do this 3 to 5 times

3. accerleate up to 80 MPH. step on the brakes HARD, as above so slow to 5 mph

do this 3 to 5 times.

these stops should be done one right after another.

4 then drive about for 30 to 40 min at normal speed, if possible do not use your brakes or as little as possible. This will cool the rotors and the pads.
5. park car for 10 min, then roll car 1/2 wheel circumferance, i.e. roll the car so top of the tires are now on the bottom. This moves the hot pad away from the cooler rotor.

6. Leave car for 24 hours ( Do not drive for 24 hours) this will finish the cooling process.

Very easy to do.

any other process as in just drive and brake easy for 100 or 500 miles is bogus and will not work.

Rember a straight no traffic road and when you put on the brakes, brake in a straight line and ALMOST ACTIVAE THE ABS. this is also good to practive controled braking. No sissy braking stomp on the peddle hard.

Good Luck.

 

Ok, thanks. I believe I will but the Hawk HP's. Not the + or racing ones. I just want good ones that will work well during street conditions. Should I treat these the same even though I am not getting the Hawk + or should i be more gentel?

 

One more thing... Some guys are saying that stock ones are fine and will actually keep the rotors nice and shiny. Are raybestos pads stock enough? What do you guys think?

 

for most driving the stock pads are great. if you want a little more stopping bite use C5 ZO6 pads.

The polished rotor is a result of pads that are more agressive, i.e. have more bite or more abrasive. so the rotor is almost ground down when braking. Not quite but close.

Never put any thing on the braking surface to polish. Rotors get dirty becuase brake pads have an abrasive on to help stop your car.

Nickle or zinc platting does not help the surface that the brake pads come in contact with. That platting must be ground off for the brakes work properly. other parts of the rotor that platting will help delay rusting.

Good luck

 

I've talked with some guys who frequently ride bikes on the track. They have suggested (for my bike) to lightly sand the rotors when changing pads so that the old pad material is removed and the new pads can then be properly bedded. Is this something that should be done on the vette? Or maybe just when changing to a different pad? I want to make sure I don't start loosing braking power and feel too early in the pad life.

 

To Golden Eagle: Thanks for the primer! I keep having my front rotors turned (and replaced X1 so far) due to what I thought was warping. People on the forum seem to think it may be uneven pad deposits. They're starting to bounce to a stop again, think I'll try your method and see if it helps. (Have never heard of this 'bedding' method before, even though I've been replacing brake pads... sometimes myself... for 20 years.) It sounds like fun anyway. I'll just clean out the car first to avoid projectiles heading toward the windshield.

 

the bedding process mentioned above works great.....but you have got to get them hot. Mine smoked big time when I did the high speed stops and after the 4th high speed stop the brakes were pretty well gone but after 40 minutes of driving with no braking and the 10 minute cool down, move 180, and no driving for 24 hours my brakes are quiet for the first time since getting my car at the museum. I used Raybestos ceramics on my Z51 pads. Standard C5 ceramic pads fit the Z51 C6.

I cleaned up my car today and you should have seen all the brake glazing that was broken loose from bedding.