So, just finished off my install of my 2015 z51 stingray. Car is headed for tune on Tuesday but have run into my first problem.

Although there were some minor issues such as the instructions being incredibly detailed up to the point of actually putting the procharger on, then the instructions went fairly vague, the install went on as expected.

One issue that I haven't been able to sort.
1. After initial startup, the radiator fan kicks on immediately. After car is turned off, fan continues to run +5 minutes or more until such time as the battery terminal is pulled. Checked fuse and replaced but still have same issue. Strange that the fan kicks on immediately once car fires and runs continuous even after car shut down


Some minor issues,
1. Radiator hose pinching between radiator fan and procharger unit - required ziptying hose hose up so it would not restrict flow - procharger really should provide a new shorter hose to eliminate the radiator pinch point
2. Instructions define radiators aluminum hoses attaching on the passenger side of radiator coming out a different direction then mine (assume its a difference between a Z51 and a '14) but the location where the aluminum hoses come out of bottom of radiator were in conflict with where the outlet of the intercooler. - Required bending the radiator hoses to get the intercooler 90 to fit through.
3. Also tied to (2) the main pipe running from the intercooler to the throttle body would impact the hood struts hydraulic lifter. Required some tugging and pulling till ultimately ziptying the pipe to the sway bar. Otherwise the hood strut would return to the up position. (with hood off)
4. Assume this will get sorted with the tune but when you hit the start button the car tries to turn over but acts like it doesn't have the force to. Hit a second time and it turn over fine but runs a bit rough, assume a combination of new spark plugs, supercharger, etc.
5. Very tight fit once the radiator, supercharger and hoses are in place. It all fits but very tight.

 

I have had my fan run like that if my mass airflow is unplugged.

 

Thanks for the quick response. Checked ma and looks all good from a connection standpoint. Does have the extension provided by procharger and tried to connect it without but just short

 

For minor issue #1, can you cut the hose yourself? #3, the sway bar will rotate back and forth a lot, i'd worry about wear on the zip tie, the pipe, or the finish on the bar itself. #4 hmm, this shouldn't be, my car ran fine before tuning. Make sure your MAF is plugged in tight, and that you're using a 1-bar map sensor until you're at the tuner, where you'll swap in a 3-bar map sensor.

 

#1 yes i assume I can cut the main radiator hose but will require dumping the fluid

#3 didn't think the black sway bar moves as it felt very rigid. If it does I'm definitely going to need to go back and cut the zip tie loose

#4 plan is to trailer it to the tune shop as its 2+ hours away. So currently on the start up attempt it's running the stock tune. I did check that it's plugged in tight and doesn't seem to show any slop in any of the connections... really not sure what to check next.

 

Cool, I think your plans are solid.

Just note, #1, a new hose would also require draining the radiator , and for installations that use a new lower pulley, removing the hose helps get things out of the way.

#3, yeah, the sway bar is attached to the rigid frame and then to each wheel lower control arm, after the suspension pivot point. When you go over bumps with both wheels, the sway bar is free to rotate up and down as the suspension compresses. However, when you go around corners, it will prevent one side of the suspension from rising and the other side lowering, preventing body roll, and adding to suspension tightness.

#4, any check engine lights? I'm sure the tuner can diagnose the issue, but I do worry that the maf extension connection may be damaged. Maybe disconnect it and inspect it and the connectors in the car for any damage or debris in the connectors.

And just as a note, I drove my supercharged + headers vehicle to the tuners on the stock tune, about an hour and a half away, without issue (just had to stay out of boost). I had a check engine light, but it was only in regards to my rear O2 sensors being missing (not installed in the new long tubes).

 

For #1 I zip tied the hose up so it won't fall into the pinch point. Guess I can dump the radiator fluid while I still have the nose/undercarriage off but a bit of a pain.

#3 will definitely mean I need to cut the zip ties loose or else it could end up pulling on the throttle body to intercooler tube.

#4. Initially no. Started it up later trying to figure out the fan issue and did have a check engine come on. Strangely it went away on another attempt.

 

The fan running is your Mass air connection. I ran into the same issue when I did my supercharger install. For me what was happening is when I plugged the extension harness to the MAF it actually was pushing the pins out the back of the harness and not engaging which resulted in iat codes and fan running constantly. I tried 3 different harness extensions and the same thing would happen. I ended up taking the harness apart and making the connnection & then meticulously wrapped the whole thing up with electrical tape.

 

Good to know this may be a known issue. I went out and started it then unplugged each connection location and wiggled around but no luck. Will call ProCharger on Monday to see what they say before I start cutting wires.

Appreciate everyone's help.

Did anyone else have issues with the main radiator hose falling in the gap between ProCharger and radiator fan? Definitely looks like it would impede flow by some amount. Took a look to see about shortening hose but looks like it may have the same issue unless it's shortened to the point of being a tight line with no slop. But hose has some prefab bends and shortening looks like it will then cause it to contact the throttle body pipe to intercooler

Also went back and cut the zip ties loose from sway bar. Hood closes fine but does have contact with hood strut so strut doesn't lock down. Again no impact when the hood function but know when hood was off this contact was causing the hood strut to not lock down. Tried repositioning intercooler bracket, intercooler adjustments but not enough play.

 

I did not cut any wires, I took the outside wiring housing off so just the inside section would line up to slide pins in. I used a silver sharpie to mark the wires so I could see the pins were being pushed out...if that makes sense.

I know on the A&A kits you need to shorten radiator hose.

 

Going to call Procharger first thing in the morning and see what they have to say. I've tried a few different things with no luck. I did take a look and not sure how or why this would work because if its partially plugged in the fan is on, fully plugged in fan is on, completely disconnected the fan is on.???

Once I talk to them and see what they say will try the disassembly of the wiring housing.

Frustrated and car is supposed to go into the shop Tuesday for the tune... running out of time

 

Better to find out now as opposed to when you're at the tuner's shop.

 

does the fans still run with the car off!

 

Yes, it did. Had to pull the battery terminal to get it to shut off.


But on good news and great help and knowledge from the forum, spoke with Procharger yesterday and figured out what the issue is. The extension harness included in the kit had a broken pin on the male side. Should have had 8 pins and only had 7. So, new part was overnighted and looks like it has cured the fan staying on issue.



Car's now booked in for its tune on Friday. Will post up with a review once this baby is tuned and everything running like it should.

 

Very nice. I'm super stoked that we got this resolved for you even before you went to the tuner.

Are you still going to have it towed/trailered, or are you confident that you can drive it to the tuners now?

 

Yes the plan is still to trailer it. i know many drive it to the tune shop but car runs with a fluctuating idle and would even call it rough. Not sure I would want to run it for 2+ hours as it is right now. I'm guessing it's the new spark plugs at the required gapping that's causing the idle to fluctuate. But want to play it safe since I'm going to be hard on it once it has been tuned

 

So we have run into another issue.

Hauled the car up by trailer to the Tune Shop on Friday. All looked good until tuner called saying they have codes coming up with the knock sensors. They have dialed the car rich and still showing the knock sensors going off. Went the other way and still having knock sensors going off. I really don't know enough about the tune part but the shop is also struggling for a solution and stating they have never seen this issue on any of the C7's they have done. The shop did state they have dialed it both ways and are 100% confident that the car isn't actually knocking but the knock sensors are still coming up. The shop, bless them, really do not want to turn the sensors off and I appreciate they are looking out for the car.

Can anyone assist in how to get past this issue? I've searched on HPtuners.com and looks like this was coming up in 2014 but no concrete answers.

 

If the knock sensor are going crazy that's usually a sign of a problem, not necessarily with the engine, but something touching somewhere it shouldn't or some other "gremlin" type of problem. The sensors are essentially reading a vibration or sensor interference from maybe wiring. my procharger kit was insanely tight, so try going over everything that was touched, and do a bolt check also, loose parts can cause false knock (rattling)

Find out how much timing they are running and what they are considering rich. Also make sure they don't desensitize the sensors because that can be very bad, as long as the ecu is seeing knock it should/will be pulling timing, you have to figure out the root of the problem if it is mechanical and not in the tune

 

Took a few extra days but car ended up running 525 hp and 490 tq and the drive home was awesome! What's also interesting is only putting out 3 lbs of boost even though procharger spec'd the car with a 7-8 lbs boost pulley. I'm at higher elevation but still seems low. That said car definitely is more powerful all around and really comes alive at 3500.

So, the fix on the knock sensors ended up being desensitizing the sensors but not turning them off. The tune shop said that the engine/location of the injectors is just causing a lot of vibration and the long and short was change the set point for when the sensors start adjusting timing. Shop was super helpful and really made sure to send the car out right.

 

What altitude are you at, and how are you determining how much boost you're pushing?