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Technically GM says stock rods can handle 460 hp as this is what they're warrantied at. Now obviously they can handle much more, up to double that as we've seen. I think the same principal will apply to the callies rods. I have the 6.125 compstar rods in my 416 so I looked into this very subject I found several ls builds making 1000whp on these rods and a C7, I believe it was Theta? Making 900+ on them.
Technically GM says stock rods can handle 460 hp as this is what they're warrantied at. Now obviously they can handle much more, up to double that as we've seen. I think the same principal will apply to the callies rods. I have the 6.125 compstar rods in my 416 so I looked into this very subject I found several ls builds making 1000whp on these rods and a C7, I believe it was Theta? Making 900+ on them.
Im already making mid 800, and was looking to up it little more but was afraid that they can’t that more power, looking for end of 900 or low 1000
Im already making mid 800, and was looking to up it little more but was afraid that they can’t that more power, looking for end of 900 or low 1000
i won't be afraid to push mine to that level. That being said i have tremendous faith in my engine builder. I know the rods are sized and torqued perfectly. Along with the block being torque plate and align honed.
I bent 4 around the 1140 mark. Many passes with 1030 ish. I wouldn't bother with them just go ahead and get the ultra I beams. That way you are covered. Probably wouldn't have notice it driving but power fell off (lost about 90) on the Dyno.
I bent 4 around the 1140 mark. Many passes with 1030 ish. I wouldn't bother with them just go ahead and get the ultra I beams. That way you are covered. Probably wouldn't have notice it driving but power fell off (lost about 90) on the Dyno.
I don’t think I would need the i beams, im looking for 1100 whp maximum, I think i may order the ultra h beam, or just stick with the compstar h beam
I think it would be a big mistake to get compstars. You really need to consider that to make that power at the wheels takes around 1400 at the crank. The blower eats up a lot of power plus the drivetrain loss.
We had a 850rwhp GS here locally break a stock rod right in the middle. The small and big ends were fine, bearings looked great...Just broke the rod on a long highway pull.
I think anything over 800 rwhp on stock LT1 rods is on borrowed time...especially if you actually run the car.
Compstar rods are much stronger.... I made 900 rwhp on compstar rods in a 402" LS for 2 years, 8k miles and never had a problem with them.... The Compstar crank on the other hand, is junk.
I think the compstar rods will be fine at 1000 rwhp (stick car)....
We had a 850rwhp GS here locally break a stock rod right in the middle. The small and big ends were fine, bearings looked great...Just broke the rod on a long highway pull.
I think anything over 800 rwhp on stock LT1 rods is on borrowed time...especially if you actually run the car.
Compstar rods are much stronger.... I made 900 rwhp on compstar rods in a 402" LS for 2 years, 8k miles and never had a problem with them.... The Compstar crank on the other hand, is junk.
I think the compstar rods will be fine at 1000 rwhp (stick car)....
I would agree really to think about it any stock part 800 to 850 it will be just time on those parts. But agree more than a few have made it for some time.
But HERE IS THE BIG QUESTION really how hard was those cars really pushed. Now that more & more are getting into the 1/2 & 1 mile hard pulls trying to get over are into the 200 mph. We will see more & more of the stock parts giving out. Just my 2 cents...
Last edited by robert miller; Sep 25, 2017 at 09:27 AM.
We had a 850rwhp GS here locally break a stock rod right in the middle. The small and big ends were fine, bearings looked great...Just broke the rod on a long highway pull.
I think anything over 800 rwhp on stock LT1 rods is on borrowed time...especially if you actually run the car.
Compstar rods are much stronger.... I made 900 rwhp on compstar rods in a 402" LS for 2 years, 8k miles and never had a problem with them.... The Compstar crank on the other hand, is junk.
I think the compstar rods will be fine at 1000 rwhp (stick car)....
Im thinking of just upgrading to the ultra just to be on the safe side, and increase the nos shot maybe later
Ive been 8.27@167 with compstar crank and rods haha.... that was an F1r and a 100 shot.... i wouldnt recommend that but they were fine.... Detonation will kill lots of things though if that happens.
Ive been 8.27@167 with compstar crank and rods haha.... that was an F1r and a 100 shot.... i wouldnt recommend that but they were fine.... Detonation will kill lots of things though if that happens.
Is it the i beam or h beam Do u think that rods will hold 1100whp? Only roll races and the car is m7, its will be from a ysi and maybe 100 shot
Last edited by black_c7; Sep 25, 2017 at 07:51 PM.
Do u think that rods will hold 1100whp? Only roll races and the car is m7, its will be from a ysi and maybe 100 shot
Id probably do it if it was my own car but always assume the risk.... and the tune must be ONNNNN.... if you get detonation it can easily bend or break the rod... just remember that.
Id probably do it if it was my own car but always assume the risk.... and the tune must be ONNNNN.... if you get detonation it can easily bend or break the rod... just remember that.
You talking about the h beam? And how much your car is pushing to compare it
Is it the i beam or h beam Do u think that rods will hold 1100whp? Only roll races and the car is m7, its will be from a ysi and maybe 100 shot
With a 100 shot on a YSI you will be having to do a 2.75 blower pulley & have one hell of a tuner to get this motor to do 1100 rwhp on a YSI. I have not seen that many guys in here putting down a TRUE 1,k rwhp with a YSI. Now are you talking a 416 build motor are a stock bore motor with all the good parts. Plus a good set of heads..
Again when the car is done post some 1/8 r 1/4 track slips here.. Robert