Patman

Why don't you just remove them? I'm telling the dealer not to install them on my 2018 when it comes in, as I want to lower mine 2 inches. Without that piece up front to scrape, I should have no issues with clearance in the places I drive.

NmtMev

they do look stupid in my opinion but, as well as the functionality debate. They do serve as scrape indicators. They are covered up well with an aggressive front lip. You could hardly notice they are there. Which I have yet to order that front lip.. maybe soon. It doesn't bother me a whole lot. Just throwing it out there for people who may be surprised the first time they encounter the sound.

MerakiAutoworks

I removed mine. Still don't scrape on anything. I know my Vette.

-Josh

JerryU

FWIW, They are called spitters (not front lips) and air dams (not rubber deflectors!) Not trying to be funny but the proper description does tell you what they do!

Splitters, split the air and forces it to increase the pressure above so it provides downforce. The downforce counters the natural lift the car makes from it's airfoil shape.

The air dam stops some air from going under the car where it meets all the suspension etc causing drag. At highway speeds it improves gas mileage (the Chevy Volt has one for that purpose) and as speeds increase it provides some downforce as well.

Depends on the slope but pic below was my 2014. The splitter had about 2 inch clearance when at it's minimum when the aid dam had 1/4 inch. Have checked my Grand Sport and it's about the same.

The air dam is designed to scrap (as it does on the Chevy Volt!) It bends, no problem. My C6 scraped every time I left the driveway and all I did in 6 years was sand off the bottom edge a few times. As you noted in another post it provides a good early warning (like curb feelers) that the next thing to hit will be the aluminum "skid pads" that stick down about a foot further back! They are made from aluminum and make the plastic air dam on pavement sound like music compared to aluminum on pavement that is a horrible sound! They don't bend. They can dent or break (dented my C6 several times!) If they break they must be replaced as they also serve as a radiator support. Not cheap!



Checking splitter clearance in driveway. Flexible Air Dam is he lowest point by several inches.

C7s

Here is my mine and not too worried about it.

Patman

That's all well and good on a Z51 that only has the side pieces, but on the base non Z51 car that air dam goes all the way across the front so it's going to scrape considerably worse.

NmtMev

congrats on your new job btw. I'm looking at transferring within my company to a different department for my body's sake. I do a young man's job, and I'd be taking a 7$ initial pay cut transferring..but in a year ill make it up + more. What i loose in $$$ ill gain in life extension LOL!!!

I'm sure everything will work out for you in the long run. Keep posting new videos!

C7s

Thanks man! Yes happiness and well being is more important than the money. I too took a pay cut with the new position but other factors make up for it.

NmtMev

Just a coincidence you posted that video the same day I put in for a bid to another department. 2 days ago @ work I just dropped. I couldnt hang, heat exhaustion. Next thing I know I woke up a few min later, F&S showed up quick cut my nomex off I had an IV in my arm, etc etc etc and I'm going to the hospital. It's crazy. The money is not worth it. I'm just happy im alive. But anyways

this thread is for lowering bolts! Continue on!

oldC5

What type of work ?

NmtMev

coker operator, we dehead coke drums. Full rubber suit, rubber boots, gloves, jacket + respirator, full nomex + full face hood and hard hat with face shield + earmuffs....Near the the drum when you drop 16" bolts with a 2" impact gun, it's around 180*. In the winter its not bad. But summer time, 100* weather its brutal. Whole process takes about 5 min for 46 bolts.

the reason for the suit is cause once you break the flange there will/could be 300* steam+ boiling water spraying. Everything is heavy, dirty and hot as Satan's *******.....

you run the gun, your partner catches bolts...

I made it off the mez deck started taking off all my **** and just dropped. Been doing this for 4yrs.. it's crazy, unless you saw it you wouldn't even know wtf I'm talking about.

LOL anyways carry on

Lowering bolts on stock car!

HorsePower Junkie

Has anyone done this mod and not done a 4 wheel alignment?

If you did this, and did not do a 4 wheel alignment, did it cause premature tire wear?


How much scraping did it cause over speed bumps and low entry driveways?



.

Deicide

I keep putting off having my alignment redone. No premature wear on the tires yet. However, it has only been street driven. Over 4700 miles driven since lowering.

No scraping, but you do need to be careful the angle you approach some driveways and speed bumps.

Pizz

Great write-up! I am going to do this. Are the jacking pucks aftermarket parts, or should they have come with my car?

bsedwebt

I want to RAISE my car a bit from stock to clear rough roads - base Stingray. I assume I just turn the bolts CLOCKWISE and stop before the bolt goes through the hole. BUT can the bolts just be turned with the car just sitting on ground on the tires? How will this affect alignment?

owc6

No new Corvettes come with jacking pucks. You will need to buy them. There are several types. When you buy them, you should keep them in/installed on the car at all times, depending on type.

Pizz

Thanks. I found another Thread that used hockey pucks instead of the jacking pucks. I have hockey pucks, so I tried it last night and it works. I was concerned about slip, but the cleats in the jack dig into the puck and I have the car tires chocked, so it's not going anywhere.

Pizz

Here's the hockey puck link:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ckey-puck.html

JerryU

If it works for you fine. Remember as a hydraulic jack raises it must move into the car to keep the jack saddle under the pad. For a given lift height, the shorter the jack arm the more it must move in. (See pics below for the amount with my 3 jacks.) If the hockey puck uses an eye hook to position it in the slot that should keep it in place. But it does take a considerable side load, it that case on the eye hook. If just using the hockey puck without an eye hook then it could slide off the frame and slot area.

I found the C7 has the rocker panels closer to the slots than the C6. The Owner's Manual says to use 2 1/2 inch diameter jack pads. My 3 inch aluminum jack pads I used on my C6 hit one of the rocker panels in the C7 so bought 2 1/2 inch diameter aluminum pads.

In fact I also just bought what I think are the best jack pads for me from a forum vendor Reverse Logic (see pic below.) The Reverse Logic Jack Pad can be used as my aluminum pads when I am jacking the car. But it has a unique way they can be temporally locked in place if visiting a dealer of tire store! I don't have to be concerned the tech will not use the jack pads I leave in a clear plastic bag on the passenger seat.

To temporally install, just unbolt the parts, remove the white section and after installing in the slot tighten the screw and lock the pad into the slot. If you have side skirts assures the dealer tech doesn't hit then with their large jack saddles they position under them when lifting. When the car is back home just reverse the cycle.



Reverse Logic Jack Pad with optional extension added. Bought one in case it was needed for my smaller hydraulic jack. But for my other jacks it's not and 1 inch high is enough to clear my Stage 2 aero side skirts on my Grand Sport.

Pizz

JerryU, my jack rolls to take up the distance the jacking pad moves. Here's a pick of the puck on the jack: