Any reason one couldn't use a hockey puck to jack up a C7 in the same way you'd use a jacking puck? Call me cheap, but why spend $50 on four plastic pucks that any sporting goods store will sell you for $10?

Or could be made with a hole saw and some spare lumber for free?

 

I use hockey pucks, got a 6 pack for $3, I've also used $1 sandals from Walmart when they had no pucks and I had to do a parking lot repair

 

I have been using the same set of hockey pucks for 10 years to lift corvettes. They work great.

 

What happens if a hockey puck slips out of place? Is it worth risking thousands to save $40 or $50 bucks after spending $60K or more on a car?

Jacking pucks are cheap insurance, in my book.

 

They won't slip if you have an eye bolt running through them that slips into the slot the overpriced "corvette" jacking pucks utilize.

 

I would be willing to say I have lifted C5/C6 cars thousands of times and I have never had a hockey puck slide or slip. They are rubber, once you apply weight they grip the frame really well.


Its not something to worry about.

 

I don't like hockey pucks because they deform under load...
I prefer to use the machined aluminum ones, and not the ones that stay on the car all the time...

Our club had a local machine shop make us some for less than you can buy them...

 

That's true, but the original question wasn't about modifying a hockey puck to turn it in to a jacking puck, was it?

 

permanent snap-in pucks

 

Sure it was. It was about using a hockey puck for a few bucks or spending $50 on something that looks pretty. You're still using a hockey puck and eliminating the slip factor. Whatever you need to do to justify your purchase is fine with me. I was just stating an alternative that works equally as well for those that want to save a few bucks.

No different than people telling me I'm an idiot for buying the tinted Showstopper LED side markers instead of slapping some tint on the factory ones. We all choose what we like and that's why there's a market for various items that all technically do the same thing.

 

They don't slip even if you don't do the eye bolt. No need to be over **** on this type of thing. Typically, the pucks are not required at the front of the car since there is plenty of room around the shipping slot for a jack pad to placed directly on the frame without touching any of the body work. The rear jacking/lift points are more problematic since the body work gets very close to the jacking point.

Bill

 

I recommend you move the jackstands inward a little more. Place them so they are under the cradle where the LCA is bolted to the cradle. You can see the bolt head right behind the jackstand as it is pictured.

Bill

 

I wanted to lower my Z06 and didn't want to wait for on line jacking pucks to show up so I used this idea. It worked perfect.

 

And thanks for the idea Peterbigblock!

 

I've been using hockey pucks as a lifting aid for a good 15 years -- never an issue.

Hockey pucks don't slip under load. If you're putting enough lateral force on the car that you're worried about a hockey puck slipping, you're doing it wrong, and would be in danger of pushing the car off the jack regardless of whether you are using a hockey puck or a $50 specialized puck.

 

I use wood, but I have a car lift so it doesn't lift at an angle. Also, there are other points on the frame you can lift from so the target isn't really as small as people make believe.

 

I've used hockey pucks with eye bolts for 15 years. First on my 2001 C5 and now on my C7. never had one slip or any issue with them at all.


Phil

 

I had 3 inch diameter alumiminum jack pads for my C6 but found the GM Owner's Manual was right- needed 2 1/2 inch diameter for my C7. There were two frame slots that the 3 inch pad that were hitting the plastic rocker panel. With a smaller diameter eye hook in a hockey puck it probably can be pushed further from the panel versus and aluminum puck that is centered in the slot.

Also it is dependent on the length of the hydraulic jack arm as to how far the jack has to "move into" the car to keep it centered on the jack saddle as the car is raised. A short jack arm lifted near max-quite a bit (see pic.)

I bought a long reach jack from Harbor Freight so it would not have to move in as far. But it weighs 95 pounds! To get a low lift position it had a very shallow saddle! That heavy jack was not moving in at all! Solved that by welding a metal rim around the jack saddle (see pic.)

Bottom Line:
Whatever you are using be sure the Jack Pad/Hockey Puck is staying on the frame and jack saddle as you lift!








For equal lift height (max shown for short jack arm) a longer jack arm has to move in less to keep the jack saddle centered on the jack pad. Thinking I would solve the potential slipping problem (ask how I know about slipping!) I bought a long arm jack, it did not! The heavy jack was not moving in well even on my titled garage floor and would be difficult to have it move on my concrete driveway! Solved that by welding a rim on the shallow jack saddle making it deeper to hold my jack pad. Pic insert on left is after welding a rim to the jack saddle with a I inch high jack puck in place. Still plenty of room to fit under my side skirts and 1 inch high jack pad when installed on the frame.

 

Less than 10.00 !!!!

 

^^^
Understand but my math is a bit different:

Saving ~$40 Not Worth one time slipping!

i.e. $50 (for quality jack pads) < $10 (and damaged $65,000 Vette!)

TO EACH THERE OWN!

PS Eye bolts will help prevent slipping.
Better than the short sections of 2X4 a trained C7 tech was ready to use recently on my Vette when I pulled out the bag with my 4 jack pads! He thanked me. The wood was OK for his center post lift with 4 arms as it raises straight up. OK IF he placed the wood properly under frame without hitting a plastic panel but not so good when using a hydraulic jack that must move into the car to keep the saddle and wood or hockey puck under the slot in the frame. Mechanics that work on few Vettes can't be expected to buy jack pads! IF the dealer had them, he would have to go to the parts department and check them out, assuming the fellow working the parts/tool crib could fine them!

Mechanics mostly buy their own tools. The prices from Snap-On, who bring a truck and visit the mechanics every couple of weeks, are very high! But as many jobs where folks live from paycheck to paycheck, Snap-On gives them credit. They have the dealer take $xx/week from their paycheck (depending on the agreed to credit plan with the mechanic!)