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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 05:21 PM
  #61  
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actually the picture shows 6 fuses total

2 of the fuses are not hooked to anything. must be a standard part used in
many cars these days.
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 05:40 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by kevingilmore
actually the picture shows 6 fuses total

2 of the fuses are not hooked to anything. must be a standard part used in
many cars these days.
Taking a shot here, I'm guessing that fuse is needed due to the rear location of the battery. Were the battery in the engine bay and have those short runs, there would not be a 350A fuse. I've used big fuses like that when I added amps in the rear of the car and had to run huge wires to the rear amp for power. I conclude that is the same thought to cover the long run to the front of the car.

Elmer
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 05:44 PM
  #63  
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Hard to believe with an 11.5:1 to compression engine that a 350 amp fuse would be enough!

(must be one Hell of an efficient starter!)
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 05:52 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
if the tensioner leaked and loosened, and the charging system is "smart" in that it regulates voltage, which I am sure monitors alternator RPM, the system may easily be fooled by belt slip and the alternator RPM and engine speed not matching up and somehow screw up the electrical system.

in short, the tensioner bearing and charging system could easily be related.


This my thought exactly.
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 10:22 PM
  #65  
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My thoughts, for whatever value they may be, is that anything with windings (starter-alternator) would emit enormous amounts of acrid smoke drawing this level of current. I would almost bet they find a mis-route of the cable that from chaffing, wore thru and contacted metal frame........ instant arc and blown up cable. The belt "chirping" was the alternator trying to keep up with current demand, until the cable made full contact with the frame and everything went south.
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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 09:54 PM
  #66  
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hey everybody! hang tight for now, working with GM to make sure me and my dad get a solution that is in the best interests of me and my dad with our brand new vette. With a new purchase this large I do not want to make hasty decisions.

thanks!
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 06:43 AM
  #67  
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I don't own a Sting Ray. I want to. So stuff like this grabs my attention.

I also am not a mechanic or electrical engineer but if this were to have happened to me I would be VERY concerned what happened could have had serious ramifications to the car's entire electrical system whereby gremlims and glitches would pop up at the most unexpected moments. Kinda like buying a car that had been flooded. You never know when things will crap out on you due to unseen corrosion.

I would be demanding one of two things:

1. a new car
2. written assurances from the dealer and GM that ANY, ANY future electrical issue would result in a new car...no questions asked.

Maybe I feel this way because I am older and less willing to take risk or maybe it's because I am not so well off that spending so much money on a car to have it do this to me would cause me to willingly accept whatever GM and the dealership told me about its future reliability.

My $0.02's worth.

I wish the OP the best in the resolution to this matter and will follow his post to see what happened.
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 07:24 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by tavaresv
I don't own a Sting Ray. I want to. So stuff like this grabs my attention.

I also am not a mechanic or electrical engineer but if this were to have happened to me I would be VERY concerned what happened could have had serious ramifications to the car's entire electrical system whereby gremlims and glitches would pop up at the most unexpected moments. Kinda like buying a car that had been flooded. You never know when things will crap out on you due to unseen corrosion.

I would be demanding one of two things:

1. a new car
2. written assurances from the dealer and GM that ANY, ANY future electrical issue would result in a new car...no questions asked.

Maybe I feel this way because I am older and less willing to take risk or maybe it's because I am not so well off that spending so much money on a car to have it do this to me would cause me to willingly accept whatever GM and the dealership told me about its future reliability.

My $0.02's worth.

I wish the OP the best in the resolution to this matter and will follow his post to see what happened.

There are laws in place for this reason....to protect the customer AND the dealer/manufacturer.

Can you imagine if every customer who ever decided on their own they should get a free car.....there would be no car companies left, even Toyotas break (all the time actually).

In Florida the law states:
Within the first 24 months,
if a car is in service for 30 cumulative days OR
the SAME problem is not fixed after three attempts (not three different problems)
Then the customer must notify the manufacturer of their intent to proceed with Lemon law, then the manuf has one last chance to fix the issue.

THEN you can get yourself a new car. You can't make your own rules except for under your own roof. When we are out and about we are all subject to the same laws, rules, and guidelines set forth by our forefathers and elected officials.

Emotion will only make things worse.
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 07:34 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
There are laws in place for this reason....to protect the customer AND the dealer/manufacturer.

Can you imagine if every customer who ever decided on their own they should get a free car.....there would be no car companies left, even Toyotas break (all the time actually).

In Florida the law states:
Within the first 24 months,
if a car is in service for 30 cumulative days OR
the SAME problem is not fixed after three attempts (not three different problems)
Then the customer must notify the manufacturer of their intent to proceed with Lemon law, then the manuf has one last chance to fix the issue.

THEN you can get yourself a new car. You can't make your own rules except for under your own roof. When we are out and about we are all subject to the same laws, rules, and guidelines set forth by our forefathers and elected officials.

Emotion will only make things worse.
Reply
Old Mar 27, 2014 | 08:11 AM
  #70  
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Once the root cause (likely a chafed cable or defect in the starter solenoid allowing short to ground) is found and corrected the car will be fine. A fault serious enough to open a 350 amp fuse will leave evidence at the failure point, i.e. a cable that tried to arc weld itself to the frame, so the dealer tech should find a clear cause.

The electrical system will be fine, "snubbers" and clamping devices are used in various places throughout modern vehicle electrical systems and are integrated into many system components in order to protect the electronics from voltage spikes that commonly occur when starting the engine, "jumping" a dead battery, igniting/extinguishing HID lights, exposure to electromagnetic radiation as in nearby lightning events, etc.
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 10:56 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by NSC5
Once the root cause (likely a chafed cable or defect in the starter solenoid allowing short to ground) is found and corrected the car will be fine. A fault serious enough to open a 350 amp fuse will leave evidence at the failure point, i.e. a cable that tried to arc weld itself to the frame, so the dealer tech should find a clear cause.

The electrical system will be fine, "snubbers" and clamping devices are used in various places throughout modern vehicle electrical systems and are integrated into many system components in order to protect the electronics from voltage spikes that commonly occur when starting the engine, "jumping" a dead battery, igniting/extinguishing HID lights, exposure to electromagnetic radiation as in nearby lightning events, etc.
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 11:11 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by tavaresv
I don't own a Sting Ray. I want to. So stuff like this grabs my attention.

I also am not a mechanic or electrical engineer but if this were to have happened to me I would be VERY concerned what happened could have had serious ramifications to the car's entire electrical system whereby gremlims and glitches would pop up at the most unexpected moments. Kinda like buying a car that had been flooded. You never know when things will crap out on you due to unseen corrosion.

I would be demanding one of two things:

1. a new car
2. written assurances from the dealer and GM that ANY, ANY future electrical issue would result in a new car...no questions asked.

Maybe I feel this way because I am older and less willing to take risk or maybe it's because I am not so well off that spending so much money on a car to have it do this to me would cause me to willingly accept whatever GM and the dealership told me about its future reliability.

My $0.02's worth.

I wish the OP the best in the resolution to this matter and will follow his post to see what happened.
Cars are made by robots (that are made by humans) and humans.

Humans are not infallible. There is always going to be a small percentage of cars that have serious issues. As long as it's a small percentage that's acceptable and hopefully if you are one of the few unlucky ones you can get your car fixed.

If there were many issues like this then I'm sure we'd hear about it and there would obviously be a serious process, control or manufacturing problem. Since this is the only instance of this I've seen I'm willing to conceded that's it's probably just a one-off problem and nothing systemic.

The problem with car forums is that you hear about every little problem and you don't hear from the majority of people that have no problems. Get some perspective.
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 08:02 AM
  #73  
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Any update?
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 08:53 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by C6Warrior
Can you imagine the repair costs on this car once it's out of warranty if crap like this starts to happen?
Probably as bad as your C6 huh
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 09:27 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by C6Warrior
Can you imagine the repair costs on this car once it's out of warranty if crap like this starts to happen?
I can, about the same level as any current vehicle. The C7 performance level is higher but the level of sophistication/complication isn't any different than other current vehicles. From the most economical Chevy economy model through a V series Cadillac you will find highly integrated, networked multiple computer controllers; engines with variable valve timing, many OHC with 4 valves per cylinder; and involved entertainment/display systems.

If you want simple pre-1973 is your best choice

If you want scary new vehicle repair costs NOT even covered during the warranty period do a search of what happens to Ford 6.7 diesel owners when the fuel injection system is damaged by a small amount of water in the diesel (diesel fuel is highly prone to picking up some water contamination but some recent systems don't handle it well); $12K to $20K! All the new HPCR diesels are subject to this but at least GM seems to be doing a much better job of taking care of their customers.
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 11:06 AM
  #76  
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Hello Everybody. I am working with chevy customer service to resolve the issue. The case has now been escalated to a specialty team. I should get a call today from them today or tomorrow.

We know what is wrong with the car, but we don't know the why. Sorry I am being intentionally vague. Until I can talk to corporate some more and we can agree on the appropriate resolution I really don't want to put anything out here. I am really hoping they do the right thing. I will keep you posted.
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 11:24 AM
  #77  
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possible depending on routing of cable back to front, that in lifting the car the battery cable got pinched or something from the road damaged it. curious to know outcome because maybe the cable needs additional protection.
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 03:54 PM
  #78  
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 03:58 PM
  #79  
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Specialty Team? In what? Arc welding?

Seriously looking for a really valid reason this happened and NEVER wanting to have to carry a 350A fuse as a spare!


Elmer
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 08:47 PM
  #80  
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Hello! Sorry it has taken so long for the update, I wanted to talk to GM before I posted anything.

So basically the engine is seized, they cannot get it to turn over no matter what they do. They do not know why it is seized. GM had a new engine shipped to the dealership, ready to install, the day after we found out the engine was toast. I told the dealer to hold off on installing the engine for several reasons:

• I am worried that because the techs do not know the root cause of the engine failure, a new engine may not fix the root problem, leading to more down time, and another safety issue
• the engine failure was a huge safety concern. I lost all control of the vehicle, no power steering no power brakes, no airbags. another engine failure would be unacceptable
• I do not want to have any other problems with the vette and have to pursue a car replace via lemon law, my dad does not have the time for this, i bought this car for him so he could drive it, not wait
• techs do not know the root cause! did the electronics fry the engine, or did the engine fry the electronics? I do not know and GM does not know


I thought about this for awhile. I have asked GM to put in writing that if the new engine goes into the car and I have another single problem with either the engine, or the electronic issues related to the engine management system, that they agree to a new car, right then and there. My worse fear is that there could be gremlins that plague the care after the engine swap. I am asking GM to step up and replace the car, and not require us to adhere to the timeline that the lemon law states (30 days in shop, or 4 repairs for the same thing). My dad does not have time for this. GM is supposed to get back to me about this request Tuesday or Wednesday of this week. So far all they have said is that "We will do the right thing".

I authorized the engine swap today, should be all buttoned by the end of this week, early next week. I will keep you posted.

Brian
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