When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
just be aware, double sided tape is very strong after a short time of adhesion. if you ever have to take the side skirt off, you will do more damage to the rocker from the tape removal than seeing a hole that you drilled to rivet. The hole can be plugged if thats your desire, but damage either needs to be repainted, or repaired if "chunks" are taken out...
I too was going to install my ACS skirts with tape until i realized how simple the rivets were...
no they won't.... fishing braid run down on the tape separates it easily....I just did a rocker in 5 min last week, same way you do a windshield with piano wire....
but I would still use a few fasteners of some type on each rocker...
no they won't.... fishing braid run down on the tape separates it easily....I just did a rocker in 5 min last week
but I would still use a few fasteners of some type on each rocker...
You removed a taped rocker in 5 minutes? How long was the tape on for? Cause my experience with similar applications was after the heat secured the tape for a while it was hard to take off so easily. Its not easy to get the fishing line in these spots. (not like taking off a front or rear badge)
actually about 7 minutes....take off the front and back bolts, . then take 50# fishing brad and wrap it with two handles like Popsicle sticks or screwdrivers...saw away, rocker falls off..this was a lashway rocker that is is flat and easy to snake.
actually about 7 minutes....take off the front and back bolts, . then take 50# fishing brad and wrap it with two handles like Popsicle sticks or screwdrivers...saw away, rocker falls off..this was a lashway rocker that is is flat and easy to snake.
im not that good then... lol haven't tried rockers, but similar pieces destroyed composite parts for me. i won't do it again (unless its only option)
Most of the "Side Skirts" that are available from vendors have predrilled holes so that you can attach the Side Skirts using 3 OEM GM washer screws behind the front wheel and 2 OEM GM washer screws in front on the rear wheel.
These vendors also have pre-drilled holes in the side skirts so that IF YOU WISH, you could secure the side skirts further by drilling into the composite material or use an industrial strength double sided adhesive tape.
From previous posts here on the C7 Forum, some owners have choosen to drill holes and use either metal rivets (requires drilling a 3/16th hole) or plastic OEM GM scrivets (requires a 5/16th hole) or using double stick adhesive tape.
It really comes down to your personal preference what to use. (Personally I choose to drill 5/16th holes and use the plastic push in scrivets for extra security and stability).
If you drill holes and decide to remove the side skirts in the future, most likely the holes would not be visible as they are very low on the car and somewhat on the lower side of the rocker panel.
There are various vendors who sell "side skirts" ranging from $389.00 per set in Fiberglass including shipping, up to $799.99 in Carbon Fiber.
What's good is the C7 owner has many choices of securing the side skirts, & choices of purchasing various styles of side skirts made from various materials, from Fiberglass to Carbon Fiber. (Personally I purchased the Z06 style in fiberglass, I painted and installed them myself for $389.00 shipped to my door).
Hopefully this post helps other forum C7 owners.
How did you jack up the car to have room to work, did you use 4 jack stands or some other method?
How did you jack up the car to have room to work, did you use 4 jack stands or some other method?
I don't like to use 4 jack stands (in fact my jack stands have a warning that says to only use on one end of the car.)
I made stanchions for the rear wheels and used jack stands for the front. I also use the stanchions when changing oil to keep the car level.
Here is a PDF that you might find useful: http://netwelding.com/Side_Skirts.pdf
For the OP, as I note in post #20 of this thread, it’s only physiological about the concern of drilling! Most all skirts bolt on the ends with the factory bolts. Then with the skirts in position you drill and only thru the composite rocker panels. I slipped a piece of scrap metal behind the rocker panel when drilling so the bit did not scatch the aluminum frame. The composite drills like butter!
If you use pop rivets the holes are very small. You also get a strong attachment and you’ll feel much better when you or a passenger brushes against them on exiting!
If the skirts are removed only an ant can see the small holes! Just my opinion!
Here's my skirts that required no drilling. They used existing bolts and 3M tape. They are made by American Car Craft and a number of vendors carry them. They are stainless with carbon fiber overlay, and I went with Stingray inlaid into the carbon fiber.
I used the factory screws and screws supplied by RPI, and had XPEL put on the skirts and splitter.
BTW, I inadvertently got sucked into a construction area a few days ago and slowed down. I could hear the rocks hitting the inner fenders and skirts. No damage to the car at all with these skirts installed.
Last edited by Randy G.; Mar 20, 2016 at 05:04 PM.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
Just my opinion!
. 