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You might want to take care of that expired registration too.
I Was waiting for that one , i keep the new sticker in the glove box. Been waiting till i take the plate off until i take the plate off to figure out a water solution .
And that day is today,
Sound like my wife, she reminds me everytime we go for a drive along with " do you have your wallet ( drivers license) "
Forgot to add , the area that is drilled is hollow behind and thin plastic , but i just drilled slowly and once through backed the bit out. You will feel it give and at that point there is no need to bury the bit
Neat solution and more permanent than mine. I just put a couple of the rubber self adhesive cabinet door bumpers on the back of the plate to keep it from ratting.
I know the adhesive is going to wear off eventually and when it does I'll use your method.
I bought a roll of 1" wide foam insulating tape with a peel-off sticky backing. I cut it into several sections and stuck it all around the perimeter of the back of my license plate. When I installed the two top bolts through the frame, the entire frame/plate assembly compresses the foam strips and forms a padding which keeps it from flopping and also prevents it from scratching the paint.
I bought a roll of 1" wide foam insulating tape with a peel-off sticky backing. I cut it into several sections and stuck it all around the perimeter of the back of my license plate. When I installed the two top bolts through the frame, the entire frame/plate assembly compresses the foam strips and forms a padding which keeps it from flopping and also prevents it from scratching the paint.
I got tired of my plate flopping about while being held in with the 2 upper plate mounts provided by GM
So made a trip to the auto store and picked up a pack of plate mounts
They are sold by the plate frames
With the plate held in by the 2 upper bolts, i used a sharpie to mark the 2 lower and removed the plate
Then drill a hole and snap in the new plate screw grommets and its done
Dont remember what size bit i used but just practiced ( smaller to larger) on a old butter bowl until i found the right size
2 on top are oem<br/>2 on bottom are from auto store <br/>Really cant tell a difference
Now i just have to figure out how to keep water from getting behind it!!
My nylon screw inserts needed a 7/16" square hole to avoid turning with the screw. Just made the correct size hole, drew a square around it, cleaned the corners with a triangular file, and pushed in the insert. Works great, looks great! Entire job took only 15 minutes (not counting the two days it took to get courage enough to drill the first hole) Thanks Again!
I used foam rubber strips used for insulating around doors, to the back of my plate, it's about 3/4" thick.
Stick a few pieces on the back of the plate near the bottom, or a whole strip across the bottom of the plate, the rubber stops the plate from digging into the carbon flash paint.
I didn't do drilling, I bought small bolts/nuts for the bottom two plate holes, put the plastic cup/caps on the bolts first, then the black caps snap into place hiding the bolts, then put a small square of velcro on the bottom area....no flapping....no drilling, can be put instantly back to original...my $.02
I got tired of my plate flopping about while being held in with the 2 upper plate mounts provided by GM…….
Now i just have to figure out how to keep water from getting behind it!!
Good looking job.
I solved both problems with a rubber plate-backer. As you can see, it sits snugly behind the plate and frame. No rattles or squeaks, and keeps water out while protecting the car from scratches from the plate. I bought it from the local auto parts store, and it was only a few dollars.
What do you mean no drilling required? Did you mount the frame and the top plate screws and then just attach the bottom of the frame to the plate?
Does the bottom still vibrate or is it solid enough to keep it from rattling?
You use the Rattle Stop (top photo in my post) bolts on the bottom. They have a rubber plate that goes up against the car. The plate screw (provided with the Rattle Stops) screws into the rubber plate (there is a threaded insert). When you tighten the top screws, it pushes the bottom Rattle Stops firmly against the car. No rattle, no drilling.
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Simple and cheap license plate modification
