^^^^ This. Any GM Chevy dealer

 

I took my 2014 into the local dealer to have them document that the original selling dealer (brand new) had failed to check the fluid level in the differential, despite a service bulletin to do so and me specifically asking them to do so prior to a 300 mi drive home. Over a qt low, I was not pleased.

Dealer feels the differential is fine but it is now documented with GM in case of issues later and perhaps outside of the stated warranty.

Service mgr was good to work with, I asked if receipts for oil and filter were sufficient to substantiate that I did oil changes at required intervals. I always change considerably more frequently than required.

Mgr said what I had was quite satisfactory. Don

 

I actually, just changed the oil in my C7. Used ramps,emptied the catch pan, then jacked up the rear and got about another 1/2 quart out when it was level. So that's what? additional 5%. I tend to change my oil sooner than required, so, for me, may not be worth the additional effort.

 

Are not the holes in the frame for the jack pucks also used to pull the vehicle on to the delivery vehicle or, more importantly, on to a wrecker if you had to call one for assistance? If you had the "permanent" pucks installed, wouldn't this create a problem?

 

They are used when transporting to hold it down and I believe in the plant as it is propelled along the assembly line but NOT by a tow truck!

 

I realize a Corvette cannot be towed. I'm talking about what is used to pull the vehicle up on his hydraulic flatbed. And even then, once its up on the flatbed, does the tow guy have to knock out the pucks to secure your vehicle?

 

Is a cross brace necessary? If two stands are under the front, you have a floor jack under a rear puck.. It would look awkward, but just for a moment.

I'm asking, I sure don't want to test it.

ah 1 more: better to change cold, warm, or hot oil? I was told once that the hotter the oil the better, since more particulate would be suspended within the oil. I'm not changing 175 degree oil, but I would 120.

Since I'm not using ramps, my car will be level, I'm assuming cold oil changes are fine.

I'm also suspecting that my understanding is pure horsepucky and balderdash, or advice from 1955.

 

You can drive yourself crazy with all the dos and don't for a procedure on a car forum.

drain when warm.....just use common sense

 

Hmm! Would not get under a car being held up by two jack stands in the front and a jack under a right rear puck, assume that is what you meant!
Might think about trying what I do when changing oil in my Street Rod if you don't want the 1/4 to 1/2 quart of old oil to remain as some folks report is left with just the front raised.
I put few miles on the Street Rod so when I change every year I want all the old oil out. Much too hard to jack up front and rear so I jack up the front and use jack stands on the frame. Then after it has drained, I keep the collection pan under with the removed drain plug, remove the jack stands and lower the car so it all drains! That also gives it time to cool. Then I raise the car, re-install the jack stands, remove the filter and install the drain plug (If removing the filter when the engine is hot I would burn my hands as it's close to the long tube headers! I also have to remove a brake return spring to get clearance to get it out.)
FWIW, when I did my first oil change on the C7 I had to use my 1/2 inch breaker bar to get the side drain plug off. Took quite a bit of force, appeared to have blue Loctite. Would not want to be putting that type of load on the car while laying under it with what you suggest or with 4 jack stands for that matter, just my opinion.

 

Jerry U:

I don't worry about the reset of the oil monitor at this time. My 2014 Cayman 981 only has 3400 miles on it and is now 2 years old. I had the oil changed at 3000 miles and will do so again @ 7000 Miles, then at 10,000 miles I will brunt the expense of a Porsche dealer change. Then they can reset the oil monitor.

I don't get any indicators for the oil. I keep accurate records of the maintenance on the Porsche.

The oil monitor can be reset by anyone, but takes a durametric cable and reader. They are sold in the aftermarket at places like Amazon. I do not have one presently.



I plan to take the 981 to an independent Porsche shop who will change the oil at 10,000 miles and reset the system. I know if a person takes their Porsche to a bona fide Porsche dealer and resets anything they usually check on and install software updates at that time.

So for now, I don't worry. On my third oil change, I will then have it done by a Porsche professional down in El Paso, Texas.

My closest real Porsche dealer is 250 miles away.

 

Thanks; 250 miles and I was complaining about 60 miles! Perhaps something else my friend (who built the racing TH400 in my Street Rod for the 8.2 liter BB) said as to why he doesn't have one! He said then he'd have to work on them and they are a PIA! Thought he was kidding. The brakes were a good example. He quoted me $500 thinking the pads would be an easy install, as did I, which they were. But when it needed new rotors, which for aftermarket weren't that expensive ($100,) they were a pain to install! Watched one of his young mechanics and it took time!

 

Jerry U.

I like your street rod very much. Last year I was on the search for a 32 Ford 3 window and lost out on a nice ride at $28,000 in mint condition. Fiberglass body of course.

Not sure who built your motor.

 

That was a very good price. Mine is a Chevy crate motor. It was their biggest when I built the car called a ZZ502, in fact that's my licence plate! Came in about ~30 boxes in a large wooden create! The bottom end was assembled by Mercury Marine you used the base 4 bolt main 8.2 Liter (502 cid) block in boats. But the aluminum heads are CNC ported to a matching manifold both say Chevy but are from Edlebrock. It has a forged crank, rods and aluminum pistons. Hydraulic roller lifter cam. I used long tube headers and an 850 Holley double pumper. It's a prostreet chassis from TCI with 4 bar link rear, independent front suspension with coilovers and disk brakes on all 4 corners. .