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Keep the oil level in the lower half of the cross hatched zone on the stick.
Every 5000 miles, loosen the intake connector at the mouth of the throttle body and spray in a can of CRC intake valve cleaner while a friend keeps the revs up to 2500 rpm.
Keep the oil level in the lower half of the cross hatched zone on the stick.
Every 5000 miles, loosen the intake connector at the mouth of the throttle body and spray in a can of CRC intake valve cleaner while a friend keeps the revs up to 2500 rpm.
All the bases are covered...
JV
Are you referring here to a Z 51 model with the oil reservoir? I have often seen keeping the oil half-way down the stick recommended for the Z 51 but not a base car engine.
Are you referring here to a Z 51 model with the oil reservoir? I have often seen keeping the oil half-way down the stick recommended for the Z 51 but not a base car engine.
Yes, oil level in the upper range has always been a problem for the Z51. "Don't Overfill" would be a better universal description. Sorry for any confusion.
Keep the oil level in the lower half of the cross hatched zone on the stick.
Every 5000 miles, loosen the intake connector at the mouth of the throttle body and spray in a can of CRC intake valve cleaner while a friend keeps the revs up to 2500 rpm.
All the bases are covered...
JV
And these are the reasons I dig through forums! I had no idea that it was a good idea to run the Z51 a bit lower on the dipstick... and I am just getting ready to do my 500 mile oil change
I have been checking into catch can setups, and it looks like the most complete system is from RX Speed Works, with thier dual valve catch can setup. Anyone used these? Any comments?
i put a RX dual catch can on and after 1000 mikes i got one once of oil so it is working i like the rx it gives you a petcock type valve on the bottom so you just turn and dump
i put a RX dual catch can on and after 1000 mikes i got one once of oil so it is working i like the rx it gives you a petcock type valve on the bottom so you just turn and dump
Kept going back and forth with brands, finally ended up with the Elite Engineering E2 setup, and installed it today. It's well put together and a very complete kit. Now I can stop worrying about that issue
I'm thinking using this every 5000 miles wouldn't be a bad idea ...
A few things about this. One, this doesn’t eliminate the need for a walnut blasting, only prolongs it. Eventually you will have to do a good nut blast’n. Two, it’s hard on your converters because your washing all the carbon build up and oil that’s coated the intake in to the combustion chambers and burning it all at once. I bought my Wrx new in 2016’, it’s DI as well. I change my oil every 4k and shoot CRC through the brake booster line every time. So basically just cleaning intake runners, TGV’s, and intake ports/valves. It’s at 98k now and it very due for a nut blast’n. But, around 70k I started having a P0420 code which is a converter low efficiency code. Usually means you have a converter not doing its job. I started using cataclean about a few thousand miles after it started, which actually works awesome, and the code went away. I also purchased an air oil separator as well. I ended up buying everything to walnut blast, so both the Wrx and the C7 is going to get it soon. I suggest you get a catch can and do a blast every 40/50k but if you do want to stretch it a bit longer use the CRC but make sure to use cataclean or just get an off-road x-pipe. Hope this helps.