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Not sure how much you want to spend or what your space requirements are but here is another option. I just park over it so its not really in the way and when I need to lift the car, put on the pucks and hit the button.
May be of help lifting for some things but would not have been useful for installing my side skirts where center access was needed with the car level!
Pics below show a much less expensive way I use. In fact before I bought my 2nd small hydraulic jack I used one hydraulic and a scissor jack. I always lift both sides before installing jack stands or stanchions. Note, I use 2 inch high jack pads (red in pic) that are needed after I installed vertically contoured CF side skirts.
I won't get under the car with jack stands holding both ends (also stated in jack stand warning as noted) so I made inexpensive stanchions from a 2X6 and plywood.
Made a PDF showing how I keep the car level for oil changes etc. http://netwelding.com/Jacking_A_C7.pdf
Inexpensive Way to Lift Both Ends of C7 When Needing to Keep Level
May be of help lifting for some things but would not have been useful for installing my side skirts where center access was needed with the car level!
Pics below show a much less expensive way I use. In fact before I bought my 2nd small hydraulic jack I used one hydraulic and a scissor jack. I always lift both sides before installing jack stands or stanchions. Note, I use 2 inch high jack pads (red in pic) that are needed after I installed vertically contoured CF side skirts.
I won't get under the car with jack stands holding both ends (also stated in jack stand warning as noted) so I made inexpensive stanchions from a 2X6 and plywood.
Made a PDF showing how I keep the car level for oil changes etc. http://netwelding.com/Jacking_A_C7.pdf
Inexpensive Way to Lift Both Ends of C7 When Needing to Keep Level
Jerry, GREAT PDF attachment link write up !!! Nice job. Lots of good ideas, that look to emphasize safety..... I too had a high school friend die many years ago from a car coming off a poor jack stand set up.
Thank you
I had a local C7 owner come over and use the lift to install his side skirts with no problem. How does raising the car on a lift make it not level?
Thought from the pic is was a portable lift similar to the one shown below that uses the jack pads so there would not be room to install side skirts like mine requiring some drilling of the rocker panels. My Bad!
Not to hijack this thread, which was tremendously helpful, but first time Vette owner and first time jack stand user, so I began to take off front passenger wheel (to take in for curb rash repair) but chickened out because:
When I got it lifted high enough to get jack stand under, the rear passenger wheel was off the ground, and when I lowered the car down onto the jack stand, the rear wheel came down but driver's front wheel came a couple inches off the ground. Since jack stand was at passenger side mounting point (on diagram in post #8 above), I wasn't sure I should leave the car in the air that way for a couple of days.
I thought about jacking up the driver's side and putting the other jack stand on that side, but my garage is a little tight (and I'm definitely not ready to try to jack the car up from the front center yet.
Not to hijack this thread, which was tremendously helpful, but first time Vette owner and first time jack stand user, so I began to take off front passenger wheel (to take in for curb rash repair) but chickened out because:
When I got it lifted high enough to get jack stand under, the rear passenger wheel was off the ground, and when I lowered the car down onto the jack stand, the rear wheel came down but driver's front wheel came a couple inches off the ground. Since jack stand was at passenger side mounting point (on diagram in post #8 above), I wasn't sure I should leave the car in the air that way for a couple of days.
I thought about jacking up the driver's side and putting the other jack stand on that side, but my garage is a little tight (and I'm definitely not ready to try to jack the car up from the front center yet.
Appreciate any advice/reassurance.
Well you've probably figured something out by now, but if not then I'll try to help. If you haven't already, you can buy a set of jacking pucks for the car that you can attach to the jacking points. After sitting the car on the first jack stand, you can use one of these jacking points on the driver's side to lift the car enough to get the jack stand underneath. Then you should be able to lower it and have the front of the car sitting on two jack stands without having to jack the car up from the front center.
The jacking points I'm talking about are the red circles in the first diagram in post #4.
Rooster, thanks..... I guess I felt it would not be safe to jack one side, then go do the other as the weigh would shift and I was concerned that the first jack stand might move.
Where do you place the jack stands if lifting the front and jacking from the side rails?
I feel the same way about jacking one side placing a stand under it then jack up the other side. I worry the first jack stand could move or tip over.
Big difference in the C7 from the C6!! The C7 has "hollow aluminum casting front and rear cradles (to save weight over the C6)" and GM warns only to lift where they say! I made the pic with the colors from the 2014 Service Manual. You can lift where you wish but risk cracking the hollow castings.
I repeated the picture below. Those dimensions are for the Cross Brace I fabricated. You are only supposed to lift from the center of the rear most front cross member-not my words, GM's!
First, no need to jack up very far for a splitter install. Since you have only one jack (I use 2) and you're concerned about jacking the other side after putting in one jack stand on an appropriate GM spot, then do it in two steps! Jack up from one side 1/2 way putting a jack pad in a shipping slots (blue circles,) install the jack stand then do the other side lifting fully, install that jack stand. Then go back to the first side and lift it so both jack stands are even. Depends how safe you want to be, I favor max safety!
GM Suggested Lifting Locations from 2104 Service Manual, I Colored for Clarity.
Can you please post a pic of the Cross Brace you fabricated? Also did you fabricate two different cross braces? One for the rear & one for the front?
Can you please post a pic of the Cross Brace you fabricated? Also did you fabricate two different cross braces? One for the rear & one for the front?
Pic below shows what I made for my C6 and modified for my C7 by making it shorter. For the C6 needed different widths so just used 2X4 "pads" placed at different points. I used bolts in the pads as pins and drilled shallow holes in the 2X6. For the C7 just space them at ~12 inches and it covers both front and back. Full details in my PDF with lots of pics: http://netwelding.com/Jacking_A_C7.pdf
As noted I also show some other options. In fact the modified Harbor Freight beam may be the easiest to make. It should fit both front and rear although need someone to try and check that the beam center section is not to wide (although it could always be shortened, if needed, with a hacksaw.) You have to remove the sliding side pieces as it is much too wide with those installed.
Pic covers:
1) The wood 2X6 beam I made and use,
2) A Harbor Freight Beam (red on top) you can buy for ~$31 with a 20% off coupon. A poster modified my idea of: a) removing the side pieces, b) drilling holes in the center beam and inserting the pads with threaded post- by saying just remove the sliding side pieces and glue hockey pucks 12/13 inches apart on the center beam (that is a great suggestion)
3) Bottom pic is a thin beam that can be fabricated so you might be able to get a low profile jack under the car without first jacking up the sides (which is needed for my wood design and the one from Harbor Freight.) I made the deflection calculations to define the thickness and width needed.
Lift the Vette from front or rear, and place jack stands on the rail locations. The Z06 is low and will prevent for the jack to slide under it. I build a low cost ramp with two planks, and that give me enough clearance to slide the jack under the front end.
Thank you for posting this picture. I know where the correct lifting points are, however I was curious where to place the jack stands if I want to remove all four wheels for an extended period.
I have two low profile, long nose floor jacks plus custom Corvette-specific cross beam lift bars that I use with a set of four RacecRamp Track Ramps so that I can lift from the front and rear. I lift from the sides when I'm working on one wheel or side.
My question is if you have either GM or aftermarket side skirts, whether you need jacking pucks in between the round Esco jack stand pads and the side frame lift points? I read the article on Dan Binks and the C7R race team and the one picture showed the C7R up on jack stands placed in the same locations under the side lift points.
General rule (on all cars) is you can always jack up on the outermost points where the lower control arms contact the "frame." Or get a 2x4, put it between those points and jack up the center.
May be of help lifting for some things but would not have been useful for installing my side skirts where center access was needed with the car level!
Pics below show a much less expensive way I use. In fact before I bought my 2nd small hydraulic jack I used one hydraulic and a scissor jack. I always lift both sides before installing jack stands or stanchions. Note, I use 2 inch high jack pads (red in pic) that are needed after I installed vertically contoured CF side skirts.
I won't get under the car with jack stands holding both ends (also stated in jack stand warning as noted) so I made inexpensive stanchions from a 2X6 and plywood.
Made a PDF showing how I keep the car level for oil changes etc. http://netwelding.com/Jacking_A_C7.pdf
Don't buy cheap jack stands. I jack up my cars 100% and leave them on the stands and crawl under them. But I have some serious stands (they are heavy as f too).
Last edited by user051728; May 19, 2016 at 08:52 AM.
Don't buy cheap jack stands. I jack up my cars 100% and leave them on the stands and crawl under them. But I have some serious stands (they are heavy as f too).
:agree:
I have the heavy duty Esco jack stands (as pictured under the silver Z06 above) for when I lift for an extended period or when I will be under the car, and then a set of four, aluminum Harbor Freight jack stands that I use for safety or when working on one corner, or one end, at a time. Mostly as back up to the jack.
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