New C7 alignment question - Help appreciated
I know there is a lot of experience on this forum. I would sincerely appreciate any thoughts and knowledge as to whether I should have the alignment re-set. He said I could get maybe close to 20,000 miles on the tires if I changed the alignment.

Just put a level on the rears, almost zero. I have been considering having it aligned closer to track setting because I autocross the car.
Last edited by juanvaldez; May 14, 2016 at 04:01 PM.
I did change the alignment on all my previous Corvettes (I have more than 600,000 miles in Corvettes), but have not found it necessary on my '15 C7.
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I drive a Z51 and believe me I can afford a Z06. No point I love my car.
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I drive a Z51 and believe me I can afford a Z06. No point I love my car.
I'll get off my soap box and you take pride in your ride.
Last edited by Strake; May 14, 2016 at 07:42 PM.

It seems to me there have been very few alignment discussions here in C7, certainly not like there were in C6 over the years. I think the factory settings aren't too bad for tire wear but may possibly be improved a little with fine tuning. My opinion only.

It seems to me there have been very few alignment discussions here in C7, certainly not like there were in C6 over the years. I think the factory settings aren't too bad for tire wear but may possibly be improved a little with fine tuning. My opinion only.


Gm allows an alignment under warranty as long as it's performed before 1000 miles?(or somewhere in that neighborhood). Drive it for a while to let the suspension settle then take it in and tell them you've noticed some unusual wear and would like the alignment checked and set to the 0 camber setting.
Make sure you get the printout of the before and after readings. They should be all in spec when done. The readings on the printout you get should match the chart above unless there have been some recent changes in the factory settings. It has been my experience that the factory settings were not always in spec. It's worth a check just due to the cost of the tires.
Enjoy the car!

It seems to me there have been very few alignment discussions here in C7, certainly not like there were in C6 over the years. I think the factory settings aren't too bad for tire wear but may possibly be improved a little with fine tuning. My opinion only.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...r-base-c7.html
The factory alignments are notoriously....hmmm....shall we say, within spec!!
The problem is...the factory specs are so w-i-d-e that they can be within the broad +/- values and be "within spec".
When you get an alignment, don't tell them "put it within the factory specs", tell them exactly what you want.
Here are the Service Manual specs, and they are for a STREET alignment:
In the Owner's Manual there are alignment specs for "Competitive Driving":
Caution
Using these wheel alignment
settings may cause excessive tire
wear. Only use these wheel
alignment settings for racing or
competitive driving. Excessive tire
wear is not covered under the
vehicle warranty.
If the vehicle is equipped with the
Z51 Performance Package or is a
Z06, the racing and competitive
driving wheel alignment settings
should be set as follows:
Alignment should only be done by
adjusting the lower control arm cam
bolts and by removing a maximum
of one washer between the upper
control arms and frame.
Alignment values are targets. See
your dealer for tolerances.
Front (per corner)
. Caster: +7.0 degrees
. Camber: -2.0 degrees
. Toe: 0.05 degrees toe in
Rear (per corner)
. Caster: 0 degrees
. Camber: -2.0 degrees
. Toe: 0.05 degrees toe in
Thrust Angle: 0 degrees
One thing that is VERY DIFFERENT with the C7 than previous Vettes is that the REAR CASTER needs to be adjusted during an alignment!!

The rear caster should be adjusted to 0 degrees, but there is a very wide +/- spread that will allow the left and right to be significantly different, and that is completely unacceptable.
The rear caster should be adjusted to 0, but it's probably even more important that both sides are equal. There is some bump steer/roll steer with rear suspension compression/rebound. As the suspension bounces up and down it can cause the toe to change and input slight rear wheel steering, and if the left and right are different it can cause a very uncomfortable darting of the rear end - and if the left and right are different you could have a different reaction from aggressive left or right cornering.
The rear caster probably isn't too much of a concern for street driving, but if you'll be tracking the car you definitely want it set up with 0 degrees both sides, and some of the track hounds have been setting it up with a little positive rear caster, and up to +0.8 degrees will keep you within the specs. A couple of performance shops have determined that the positive rear caster gives a better "toe curve" - not so dramatic toe change with suspension movement.
Bottom line - the factory alignments are STREET alignments - and the factory specs are VERY WIDE. The Owner's Manual has track driving recommendations. Don't forget to have the rear caster checked and set to 0 degrees. Get them to give you the rear caster settings on your alignment results sheet.
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