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Thank you for all the helpful responses. I think I will go for the leave on lifting pucks. I can slip them on at the museum and be ready for that first oil change on the way home.
You can be sure I will be standing there as the oil is being changed to make sure there are no mistakes and I get the correct oil. I will also request as suggested the 10th quart of oil and top it off myself so I know it will be right. Nobody will care more about that car than me!
I currently have a 4 post lift in my garage so future oil changes will be done myself as I have done for the last 46 years or so on all my stuff.
This forum has truly been a great help to me and I'm sure thousands of others. When I look at the amount of post some of you have made I know there is a lot of experience here. Also enjoy some of the entertaining post but really don't like some of the hate some have dished out. I saw enough bad people in my 39 year career.
Probably plenty guys on here like me that are just happy to wake up and have another day of life! I am now off my soap box. Carry on...
I bought the aluminum pucks on Amazon. $60. Love them. I did the budget hockey pucks with eye bolts but they didn't stay in the holes. Easier jacking the car when the pucks stay attached so the jack rises to touch the puck. But I didn't like the idea of the permanent leave-in pucks.
I have the plastic leave-in pucks, and they work fine for my Quickjack pads, and also my floor jack but with MINIMAL clearance. Wish they were about .25" - .5" thicker/taller.
I bought the aluminum pucks on Amazon. $60. Love them. I did the budget hockey pucks with eye bolts but they didn't stay in the holes. Easier jacking the car when the pucks stay attached so the jack rises to touch the puck. But I didn't like the idea of the permanent leave-in pucks.
Another benefit of pads that are made to tightly fit the shipping slots is they don't move when you are jacking the car! You must position hydraulic jacks perpendicular to the car as the jack must roll in as you lift the car. On smaller jacks the amount of horizontal movement is significant. With jack pads that aren't secure in the slots, then instead of the jack moving in the pads can slip outward as the jack raises. One slip is not worth the few bucks they cost! Less than a $100 investment for 4 pads is cheap to protect a $60,000+ car IMO!
Permanent jack pads are fine IF they clear side skirts. Just measured and my slots are ~1.5 inches above the edge of my vertically contoured LG Motorsports CF side skirts. My jack arms would hit if I had short pads, which is why I bought 2 1/2 inch high ones and why they sell them! Even if the jacks you might use, like sissier jacks, would be OK, when the dealer positions the large pads on their post lifts, if the aren't careful they can place them such that they extend under the side skirts. With the car sitting on the ground, I have watched as they just push large pads with their feet to place them!
I like the ReverseLogic pads, which I don't have-I have KaTech aluminum 2 1/2 inch high pads that work fine but can NOT be left in. With my C6 when I brought it to the dealer several times I would put my jack pads in a clear plastic bag on the passenger seat and tell the service scheduler to be sure they used them. Could not be sure they did! Would watch the mechanics put cars up on their 12 center post lifts and just place those large pads so they hit a frame but they were not careful! With the ReverseLogic design you remove a spacer and can lock even their 2 1/2 inch high pads into the slots. It is NOT permanent but would be fine when bringing the car to a dealer or tire shop so you are sure they are used!
When I brought my C7 in for a GM request to have my diff fluid level check, did the same with the 4 pads I had at the time (before I installed side skirts.) Said my usual, "Be sure, etc..." Knew her from my C6, great gal, and she said; "Don't worry I will be sure he uses our drive on alignment rack. We just cracked Vette rocker panels and had to repair them, don't want to go thru that again!!"
Permanent jack pads are fine IF they clear side skirts. Just measured and my slots are ~1.5 inches above the edge of my vertically contoured LG Motorsports CF side skirts. My jack arms would hit if I had short pads, which is why I bought 2 1/2 inch high ones and why they sell them! Even if the jacks you might use, like sissier jacks, would be OK, when the dealer positions the large pads on their post lifts, if the aren't careful they can place them such that they extend under the side skirts. With the car sitting on the ground, I have watched as they just push large pads with their feet to place them!
I like the ReverseLogic pads, which I don't have-I have KaTech aluminum 2 1/2 inch high pads that work fine but can NOT be left in. With my C6 when I brought it to the dealer several times I would put my jack pads in a clear plastic bag on the passenger seat and tell the service scheduler to be sure they used them. Could not be sure they did! Would watch the mechanics put cars up on their 12 center post lifts and just place those large pads so they hit a frame but they were not careful! With the ReverseLogic design you remove a spacer and can lock even their 2 1/2 inch high pads into the slots. It is NOT permanent but would be fine when bringing the car to a dealer or tire shop so you are sure they are used!
When I brought my C7 in for a GM request to have my diff fluid level check, did the same with the 4 pads I had at the time (before I installed side skirts.) Said my usual, "Be sure, etc..." Knew her from my C6, great gal, and she said; "Don't worry I will be sure he uses our drive on alignment rack. We just cracked Vette rocker panels and had to repair them, don't want to go thru that again!!"
I have side skirts; no problems. I've not heard of pucks like these breaking
I bought the plastic leave-in pucks for my C6 from this vendor three years ago, then transferred them to the C7. No problems, but I haven't used them much yet on the C7. I don't have side skirts installed.
I seem to recall having read that the place where those pucks goes is where a flatbed tow truck driver is supposed put some hooks in order to drag the base C7 Vette onto the truck. Is this the case? And if so, do you keep the tool on board in order to uninstall the pucks if necessary?
I seem to recall having read that the place where those pucks goes is where a flatbed tow truck driver is supposed put some hooks in order to drag the base C7 Vette onto the truck. Is this the case? And if so, do you keep the tool on board in order to uninstall the pucks if necessary?
The plastic leave in pucks snap into place, and it takes just a little pressure to pop them back out by hand in seconds each. No worries about them being "permanent".
I seem to recall having read that the place where those pucks goes is where a flatbed tow truck driver is supposed put some hooks in order to drag the base C7 Vette onto the truck. Is this the case? And if so, do you keep the tool on board in order to uninstall the pucks if necessary?
The puck locations are where the flatbed truck driver used to secure my C7 when it had to taken to the dealer.
Another benefit of pads that are made to tightly fit the shipping slots is they don't move when you are jacking the car! You must position hydraulic jacks perpendicular to the car as the jack must roll in as you lift the car. On smaller jacks the amount of horizontal movement is significant. With jack pads that aren't secure in the slots, then instead of the jack moving in the pads can slip outward as the jack raises. One slip is not worth the few bucks they cost! Less than a $100 investment for 4 pads is cheap to protect a $60,000+ car IMO!
