Read several threads on the c7 jacking pucks. Most seem to like the aluminum pucks but they are not made to leave installed on the car.

Then I also see that the plastic leave in pucks break sometimes. Since I am new I will ask you which ones I should buy. I will need them when I bring my car home from the NCM delivery and will likely stop in Little Rock, Arkansas for the 500 mile oil change.

After that I will do my on oil changes. I also plan to put side skirts on my car which further confused me as some vendors say their pucks won't work with side skirts.

So which ones should I buy?

 

I wanted leave-in pucks but the plastic ones can break sometimes. To be clear, there are only a few cases of this happening with the RPI and SCP ones, but they occasionally happen and you can find a couple on the forum. Most people use them with no issues.

I ended up going with the ones from ZL1Addons (they are leave-in as well). They are aluminum and made to be left-in. You can get them both in red (anodized) and in a plain aluminum finish. PM if you want a discount code. I believe they are a forum vendor.

https://www.zl1addons.com/index.php/...ck-pads-detail

 

I bought these leave-in pucks:
http://www.southerncarparts.com/corv...ks-p-5762.html

I have side skirts; no problems. I've not heard of pucks like these breaking

 

I have the plastic leave-in ones too, and they worked on the dealers lift...but find when using a floor jack they work better and provide better clearance of my side skirts if I put a hockey puck between the leave-in puck and the floor Jack pad.

 

[QUOTE=joeybsyc;1592627505]I have the plastic leave-in ones too, and they worked on the dealers lift...but find when using a floor jack they work better and provide better clearance of my side skirts if I put a hockey puck between the leave-in puck and the floor Jack pad.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the Info

 

I have 2 1/2 inch high aluminum pucks from KaTech and need that height to clear my side skirts with the jacks I use.

However I would buy the best of both worlds from ReverseLogic.
They are 2 1/2 inches high and have a unique construction that lets you install them temporally by locking them into the slots. I'd get 4 so if your car dealer or when you get tires or have a flat fixed and they have a center post lift they will not crack your side skirts or rocket panels! Can't leave them in but fine for driving to a dealer.

On the subject of having that first fill done by a dealer. First I would tell them to add only 9 quarts and give you the 10th. Then in the parking lot do what many dealers don't. Start the car, get the oil up to temp. Wait 5 minutes but not more than 10 and check the level. Put in enough to leave it half way in that hatched area between min and max. Bring a funnel! If you wait more than 10 minutes or the dealers mechanics helper goes for coffee then oil drains from the dry sump tank back to the pan and you get a false low reading. For fun I waited a day and checked before starting and it was below the dip stick >5 quarts low!

Frankly if you read the GM bulletin that came out a year after I got my C7 it says:
If the car is driven at sustained high speeds it may cause oil to drip from the air cleaner. Since that bulletin issued, there are still many posts of oil dripping from the air cleaner! It is much more probable, IMO, that dealer overfilling is and was the cause of the issue not engines run at excessive speed in the initial break-in.

The mechanics helpers that often do oil changes may just use the capacity chart that will overfill a minimum of 1/2 quart. Per the Service Manual they are NOT to rely on the chart and are supposed to check the level and adjust! Takes too long with a dry sump! Excess oil will then burp with the air from the dry sump tank to the air intake tube and run down and soak the air cleaner then drip on the floor! Also may mess up the mass air flow sensor etc etc.

Since my Z51 was a year old when that bulletin came out I was very careful to check for oil drips in my air duct and filter when I added a low restriction air intake system. Not a drop of oil in the intake tube or where the burped air exits or an the air cleaner. I changed my own oil at ~1500 miles. Frankly I'd drive home rather than risk a cracked rocker panel or overfill. Your car your choice.



ReverseLogic pucks can be screwed in temporarily when going to a dealer.

 

I use hockey pucks with an eye bolt that I made for my previous vettes. I remove them after each use. They work fine with the side skirts on my car.

 

Use those with my RPI side skirts. I have to drive up a ramp to clear a jack, but it's not an issue with the pucks, but rather the jack and a lowered car.

 

[QUOTE=TheVettePirate;1592627554]
You're welcome. As with everything Corvette related, many make it way more complicated than it needs to be. The plastic leave-in pucks stay in the frame unseen until you need them, you don't gotta fumble with putting them in every time you want to jack up the car or have the car lifted, and you also don't have to carry around a set of loose pucks in your car which undoubtedly get greasy and grimy the first time they're used with a dealership lift and need to be cleaned before putting them back in your trunk. They snap in place easily, are affordable, look OEM when installed, and I haven't had any issues with them breaking, cracking, or anything else. The extra hockey puck I mentioned is just something I do for extra height at home with a floor jack, you can actually still use a floor jack without it.

 

FYI, I also went with leave-in-place pucks. I put them in before my first free oil change. Even the dealer service department liked them!

 

I have the "leave in place" type plastic pucks and have side skirts and all is well. I bought a cheapo racing style floor jack that slides under the skirts so I don't have any clearance problems. My '15 base coupe has not been lowered.

 

I bought the plastic, snap-in pucks from BMW for my C6 in 2006, and transferred them to my C7. 10 years on the road on a daily driver, oil changes, flats repaired, zero issues.

 

These are the same ones that I use and they are about 3 years old. These are the same ones that I used from my C6 and they keep working great with my floor jacks. No issues for me. I have the Race Ramps too when I need those.
Adding the side skirts this weekend and when I checked, no issues. Just go slow and triple check as you lift!

 

When I saw the price of the plastic or aluminum units I resisted. I bought 4 eye bolts at Lowes and used some scrap 2x4 to make the 4 3" round spacers. I just keep them in the rear storage compartment. Cost less than $5 and took less than one hour on a Saturday morning. When I get a chance I may paint them.

 

Buy the leave in place pucks. Install them once and forget about it.

 

My plastic pucks from SCP have been in for 2 years with no problems.

 

Plastic snap in pucks from forum vendor. No problems. I have a 10,000 pound Bendpack lift with the low profile arms and round poly pads and the smaller diameter pucks sit perfect on them.









I guess you could save some money and do it this way.

 

My plastic pucks from RPI have fallen out, and gotten stuck in my floor jack so I'm thinking about replacing them with the ZL1 pucks.

Also saw another aluminum billet puck (not meant to be left in place), but it was a bit pricier.

This really should not be this complicated...

 

I put the zl1addons aluminum pucks in seven months ago and forget they're even there.

 

Rooster, can you explain how the Zl-1 pucks attach?