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Been working on my C5s for years with industrial stands and jacking at the front/rear members. Just trying to determine exactly how to do the same on a C7.
With a C5/6 you jack on the part of the cradle closest to the end of the car. The diagram I posted suggests that's fine, but then others say to use the inboard parts of the cradles.
Not sure why its so difficult for GM to make this more clear especially with respect to where jack stands ought to go.
The cradles are definitely different than the C5/C6 so it is less clear structurally in my opinion. The C7 cradles castings have a lot of curved surfaces.
I typically jack from the jacking "puck" points and then place large wooden blocks under all four wheels. This gives me enough space to jack from the cradle (per manual image I posted) to put jack stands in the puck locations. I've also put jack stands in the cradles locations although I've never had the need on either of my C7's. (I did it a LOT on my C5/C6)
Here are some other pics (Google) that may help others illustrate their understanding of the proper method.
Cheers.
Last edited by SnowyATX; Nov 21, 2017 at 08:34 AM.
See I thought you could jack from the "outboard" parts of the cradles closest to the front and rear.
Originally Posted by Torch-Red-Z06
Not sure why its so difficult for GM to make this more clear especially with respect to where jack stands ought to go.
The cradles are definitely different than the C5/C6 so it is less clear structurally in my opinion. The C7 cradles castings have a lot of curved surfaces.
I typically jack from the jacking "puck" points and then place large wooden blocks under all four wheels. This gives me enough space to jack from the cradle (per manual image I posted) to put jack stands in the puck locations. I've also put jack stands in the cradles locations although I've never had the need on either of my C7's. (I did it a LOT on my C5/C6)
Here are some other pics (Google) that may help others illustrate their understanding of the proper method.
Cheers.
Last edited by RapidC84B; Nov 22, 2017 at 07:44 AM.
Can someone post a pic of exactly how the jack stands go on the cradle with the cast hollow cradles? Appears it's now OK to jack on the center of the cross-members like the C5/C6?
C7 Jake has no PMs turned on... I don't want to learn the hard way and crack one of these hollow cradles.
The "2016 manual new locations" The front yellow square should be in the center of the green "optional location" (11" in the diagram") Like in here from the manual https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...7-photo356.jpg
The "2016 manual new locations" The front yellow square should be in the center of the green "optional location" (11" in the diagram") Like in here from the manual
And for the rear I only see 1 location in the manual and not 2
So the diagram has 2 more "new locations", are those 2 yellow square locations also acceptable or are they mistakes.
(for the new locations where manual recommends a pad or block, a hockey puck is fine right?)
That is my pic. Made that after a person posted a pic from the 2016 Service Manual. Prior to that my similar pic from the 2014 Service Manual I have showed only one place to jack from the center.
Note I put the words in from the Manual pic abut using a pad. My suggestion re the rubbber pad I have for one jack or suggested wood. I colored pics to make cross hatched B&W Manual pics clear.
That member in Green has shown it can be lifted anywhere from 2014 as well. That is why no need to put yellow area. If you like yellow, add it!
That is my pic. Made that after a person posted a pic from the 2016 Service Manual. Prior to that my similar pic from the 2014 Service Manual I have showed only one place to jack from the center.
Note I put the words in from the Manual pic abut using a pad. My suggestion re the rubbber pad I have for one jack or suggested wood. I colored pics to make cross hatched B&W Manual pics clear.
That member in Green has shown it can be lifted anywhere from 2014 as well. That is why no need to put yellow area. If you like yellow, add it!
Yeah after my post I kept reading other threads and I ran into that 2016 service manual post. So All those 3 yellow square are ok for jack point (should be 4 right?) a hockey puck will do right? in those yellow square jack points.
Also big thanks for the pic, very clear and easy to understand. Sometimes people will say near LCA or subframe etc but a picture is great!
In the pic the distance 11" 12" are the minimal distance to put the jack stands right? Will be dangerous if put them closer then illustrated?
Last edited by okaythen; Mar 24, 2018 at 10:51 AM.
Yeah after my post I kept reading other threads and I ran into that 2016 service manual post. So All those 3 yellow square are ok for jack point (should be 4 right?) a hockey puck will do right? in those yellow square jack points.
Also big thanks for the pic, very clear and easy to understand. Sometimes people will say near LCA or subframe etc but a picture is great!
In the pic the distance 11" 12" are the minimal distance to put the jack stands right? Will be dangerous if put them closer then illustrated?
Yep, I put the Yellow areas where they are in the 2016 B&W Service manual pic.
Want to put the jack stands as far as wide as possible for stability. The shape of the cross member indicates the best locations.
I found it difficult to follow the B&W shading in the Owner's and Service Manuals so as you note the coloring is a big help-Thanks.
I like what you made. I have a couple of questions
1) approximately how long is the 2x4
2) how dense is the rubber pad and where did you buy it?
About a foot Maxie. I got the rubber from a friend at a tool and die shop. It’s left over from their shipping dies and equipment . I bet you can ask at any local tool and die shop.
For me was very surprising to hear both from my local Goodyear and Firestone stores that they wouldn't dare to lift a C7 because of possible damage to the front low lip spoiler and damage to the car because of body flex of the Corvette chassis, to only take it to the dealer, if I wanted to lift my vehicle. I was really surprised to hear that.
For me was very surprising to hear both from my local Goodyear and Firestone stores that they wouldn't dare to lift a C7 because of possible damage to the front low lip spoiler and damage to the car because of body flex of the Corvette chassis, to only take it to the dealer, if I wanted to lift my vehicle. I was really surprised to hear that.
Foolish to worry about the air dam (you or they called it a lower lip) and flexing Vette chassis went out with old Vettes!
Either they did not want to work on the car or don't need your business! Dealer does nothing different! I did have the Firestone folks worry about scraping the air dam as they drove it on their alignment rack until I said it was fine, it's designed to bend! Funny the Chevy Volt has an air dam that is as low to improve gas mileage. Many cars use them for that reason.
If it's a splitter they are worrying about I can understand. The Stage 2 aero carbon fiber splitter on my Grand Sport just cleared the alignment rack on a new Hunter alignment ramp at the dealer. I watched (along with another tech) as they pulled it on there was less than one inch clearance!
Many shops have cheaper center post lifts, especially tire shops as that is a way they can get to all 4 wheels to remove. However that is not as safe since if they don't have/or use jack pads they can crack the rocker panels.
Recall with my '88 Vette the local gas station would not use their center post lift to perform a state inspection as they had cracked a Vette windshield because the fame flexed. No way the C7 frame flexes to any significant amount. They only got $5 from the State and it was all they were allowed to charge. Did away with State Inspection in ~1990!
