I want to jack up my C-7 remove all the tires to have my factory rims powder coated. First, can I put the car on jack stands? I have the pucks to jack with, is the a product I can use to keep the car on stands while the rims are being done? Has anybody powder coated their rims? is this a good idea?

 

The operator manual shows exact locations on where to place jack stands under the car. I've used those positions and proves to be stable.

 

Here's a diagram someone on here made showing jack stand placement. The points near the edge of the car are jack points, the other points are stand placement. The car will be fine on stands for a while and powder coating is a great way to change the look of your rims!

 

 

I am a little confused by this diagram. The 4 points that have a little line in them are for the floor jack, right?

The points near the engine and transmission are for Jack stands?

 

Yes that how to place them

 

Yes, the four green squares with the line on the edges of the car are jack points. Those lines are actually the holes where the jack pucks go.

 

My car was up for 3 days while I painted my calipers.

 

I just completed a comprehensive project where mine was on four jack stands in the recommended positions for a month. Solid as a rock, so to speak

JV

 

Basically the same as the C-6.

 

And the C5!

 

FWIW, it's not like the C6 in one way, the C7 has hollow aluminum castings for the cradles! The C6 were solid. They reduced weight 25% by being thinner and could crack. Know some do it but small cracks grow to big ones once started! There is only one place that you are supposed to lift from the center, one of the two front cross members. Other than that you must used a cross brace. If jacking up from the sides using pucks the Jack stands can be placed on the cross member locations GM recommends.

The other issue is using 4 jack stands. Not the safest, not only in my opinion but also the warning from one pair of my jack stands. If I had to remove all 4 wheels at one time, I would keep my pair of jacks in position in addition to the 4 jack stands. Not the best but safer, IMO. Also never get under the car with 4 jack stands. Might even consider letting one end rest on the brake rotors cushioned on sections of 2x6.

One more issue when using a hydraulic jack. Be sure it is perpendicular to the car and the rear casters are turned to allow it to move into the car. It MUST move in to have the jack saddle stay on the jacking pucks. From experience, if on a rough concrete surface it may not and slip! Expensive and dangerous!

This is a pic from the 2014 Service Manual I colored to make the locations clear, if it helps. Another pic shows the jack pads lifting the sides to make room for my larger jack and cross brace when I need to lift higher. Valdosta shown are stanchions I made when wanting the car level for an oil change.




Pic of Cross Brace I made and suggestions on modifying a metal one from Harbor Freight



Rubber pads for jack stands are a good idea.<br/>Using 4 jack stands to raise both ends of the car is warned against.

 

hardly rocket science

 

Bump...

Can someone post a pic of exactly how the jack stands go on the cradle with the cast hollow cradles? Appears it's now OK to jack on the center of the cross-members like the C5/C6?

C7 Jake has no PMs turned on... I don't want to learn the hard way and crack one of these hollow cradles.

 

You are braver than I am. I can't stand using those skinny chicken leg jack stands.

 

If you’re not pulling the wheels, here’s another, very safe option

 

I have those same Race Ramps, and they work great. They are very safe to use, but like you said, can be used only if your not taking the wheels off. Curious why you are using those little mats with them, though.

 

^ Ya, I like these because of the 2 piece design, you go up 5 inches at a time.

 

Damn cell phone....fixed the text


This diagram is confusing to me (the manual unfortunately has a vague "2D"� bottom view). Other than the four jacking puck points the ones shown in the "3D"� view are the only other points called out in the 2017 manual. The image above conflicts with manual for points in the rear (A-arm attach points can be used as a reference)

 

My pic in post #12 shows what I do. Since up until the new diagram came out in the 2016 Service Manual that I recently posted, I use a home made cross brace. Then the jack stands fit just to the outside of the cross member.

Even though I recently purchased a long reach low profile jack I will still use two jacks on the side to lift the car and place the jack stands only on the ends of the cross member, where shown in the diagram.

I also would not get under a car with jack stands on both ends. You'll see in post #12 I use home made stanchions under the tires on one end and jack stands on the other when I need the car level as when changing oil.

If I had to remove parts requiring significant physical force, as I did for much of my constriction of my Street Rod, I'd use 4 stanchions. The ones I have are too high for normal use as it requires a two step jacking procedure!



When building my Street Rod it was up 12 inches on stanchions for months, installing headers, exhaust, electrical lines, fuel lines, trans cooler etc, etc.