Sorry, can't agree with that. 15 minutes isn't enough to both charge and help the engine. You need to actually drive the car and get all fluids up to operating temperature. Also, 30 - 40 minutes at minimum would be needed to adequately charge the battery. Probably closer to an hour.
Just unhook the negative terminal and charge in the spring.

 

I agree, I know a guy back in the 70s that had a 1969 tri-power and started it up for 15 minutes to let it warm up in the winter. A month later he tried to do it and the Pistons rusted tight to the cylinders. He traded it in, the GM dealer had to pound the Pistons out with a sludge hammer. That was during the gas shortage and the dealer had a hard time getting rid of it no one wanted a gas guzzler. I could have bought it for $1200 before they rebuilt it, if only I knew what they would be worth someday.

 

I had a "toy" that I only took to car shows. When it was in storage, I removed the battery, brought it home and put the battery on a maintainer. When I want to use the car, reinstalled the totally fully charged battery and drove the car away.


Elmer

 

One thing to note if you do disconnect the battery is you have to "index" the windows by putting em down and back up. Convertible has a little procedure too. After you do the windows, you hold the vert button up till the windows roll down and it beeps. The second one took me a little while to figure out the first time I disconnected the batt. Not very clear in the manual.

 

get a battery jump starter with a 110 V output. Plug the battery tender into it. once a week or so recharge the battery tender. use a volt meter to check the car battery and jump start voltage.

 

I live here in VA - much farther south than NY, but still susceptible to significant snowfall. When I get my new C7 (which I hope to be ordering in December), it is going to be a 'garage queen' and in no way will I be tempted to drive it in any type of inclement weather.

As for the battery sitting during winter, I would recommend disconnecting the negative terminal if the car will be stationary awhile. Even in NY, you should still be able to drive it once every couple of weeks. Plenty of sunny (albet cold) days with no snow.

I wonder if the Corvette - with all of its electronic wizardry - drains the battery any faster than a "normal" car does when not driven for long periods of time.

 

It's no worse than any other contemporary car. Even entry-level KIAs have a lot electronics these days. It's always been a problem with garage queens of all makes and models.

None of my cars are garage queens, and the C7 will be driven all winter in Maryland.

 

Disconnecting the negative cable is generally sufficient but the reason I recommended considering removing the battery in my earlier post is some people will be storing their vehicle for the entire winter in an unheated space. Even disconnected a battery will slowly self-discharge if not on a maintainer and this will also increase the temperature at which the electrolyte will freeze. If a battery does freeze and crack and it isn't discovered until Spring then the highly corrosive electrolyte will have made a large mess.

It isn't as much concern for a car that won't see well below freezing conditions in storage but if that is a possibility for your car then I would remove the battery.

 

Being doing this for years takes all the worry about trickle charger or power failure. Only way to do it.

 

Wrong thing to do. Once in storage don't start the engine unless you plan on driving the car 15 to 20 miles to get it thoroughly warmed up. Idling just builds lots of condensation in places you don't want it.

Bill