Another Oil question
I did a search and read all the other threads (mostly GM Dexos vs Mobil1)...but I just wanted to double make sure before I do my first 500 mile oil change (z51). I'm assuming that most folks use Mobil 1 oil...is there a specific one? In the past cars I used to use full synthetics (there were options in other brands..full synth, mixed, natural oil and etc).
Is there a specific 5w-30 Mobil 1 version I should be using? (Race, extended performance, mileage, etc)
I plan on using the Mobil M1-113 oil filter (unless you guys say otherwise).
The other question I have is the use of jackstands. I have jacking pucks installed, but was curious about the placement of of the forward facing drain plug. Since the car will be jacked nose up, will the fact that the main drain plug is facing forward be an issue?
Thanks guys!
Last edited by Saint_Spinner; Nov 14, 2016 at 09:46 PM.
I did a search and read all the other threads (mostly GM Dexos vs Mobil1)...but I just wanted to double make sure before I do my first 500 mile oil change (z51). I'm assuming that most folks use Mobil 1 oil...is there a specific one? In the past cars I used to use full synthetics (there were options in other brands..full synth, mixed, natural oil and etc).
Is there a specific 5w-30 Mobil 1 version I should be using? (Race, extended performance, mileage, etc)
I plan on using the Mobil M1-113 oil filter (unless you guys say otherwise).
The other question I have is the use of jackstands. I have jacking pucks installed, but was curious about the placement of of the forward facing drain plug. Since the car will be jacked nose up, will the fact that the main drain plug is facing forward be an issue?
Thanks guys!

I put my rear wheels on 6 inch high stanchions I fabricated from a 2X6 and plywood before I jack up the front. But getting the last drop out isn't critical, IMO.
However you jack it up, you will probably have to move your catch container to be sure oil doesn't spill on the ground! I remove the rear plug first, reinstall after it fully drains and then remove the front plug.
The next step is critical. Do Not put in 9.5 quarts. Put in 9 quarts, run the engine to get the oil hot, check the level after 5 minutes but not more than 10. The 5 minutes is needed to let the oil drain down from the baffles in the tank. If you wait more than 10 minutes you'll get a false low reading as oil will drain back from the dry sump tank to the pan. Wait a day or two and you'll read ~5 quarts low! The oil will be below the end of the dip stick! It fills back quickly when you start.
Top off to whatever level you would like but to help avoid oil burping with the large amount of air that scavengers with the oil from the pan, many of us fill only 1/2 quart over the Min level which is half way in the hatched area on the dip stick.
My 2014 specifies a different AC filter number, which is what I use, but use whatever your Owner's Manual specifies.
Last edited by JerryU; Nov 15, 2016 at 12:29 AM.
Good synthetic is key to the oil change, where as brand would be secondary. Do some reading on bobistheoilguy.com if you are interested in oil. Go to the motor oil university link on the far right side.
I have done a few reports in journal bearing turbo motors, as well in higher mileage straight 6's and lately have found Mobile 0-40w Euro to be to my liking.
German castrol is also great oil, but harder to come by, Rotella T-6 is a durable oil for relatively cheap that can be had almost anywhere.









