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Yes, my change oil indicator recently came on by base C7 at about 2000 miles - at almost exactly a year from when I purchased the car (and I have enjoyed everyone of those 2000 miles).
I checked the manual several times and did not find any reference to oil change schedule other than 7500 miles. BTW, as per other posts, I found it very difficult to read the oil level on the hash marks. I was a little concerned it was overfilled - one side had the oil level to the very top of top hash mark (couldn't tell if it was above), I noticed the other side was slightly below top mark so I figured I am OK (as per previous posts on this topic - I think the stick goes in at a slight angle ?)
It is somewhat difficult to read the level, especially with new oil! I usually bring the dip stick into the sun and rotate it like a thermometer! Clean it off and make two checks, starting at 5 minutes after shutting off a hot engine and finishing before 10 minutes. Also see two different readings front to back- but close. Easier if you wait and put a few miles on the car then read the slightly colored oil. No problem as long as it is above the min line. I keep mine around the middle of the hatched area and find I burn no oil between changes.
It looks like any LT1 requires the oil change at the first 500 miles :
My guess is that is a typo and the LT1 was meant to be followed immediately with Z51 package and GS in that sentence.
This is what is says on three pages: 24, 236 and 308 of the 2017 Owner's Manual: Dry Sump Engine Break-In Oil Change If equipped with a dry sump engine, the initial oil and filter change must be performed at 800 km/500 mi. Follow the engine oil life system for every oil change thereafter.
You could interpret it the way it's written, as it's also needed in a wet sump but will be interesting to see how a dealer reads it! If true, the GM Bulletin logic as to why it's needed would change. Have not seen anything stating it has.
Perhaps the Chevy folks who monitor the forum can clarify if a wet sump required an oil change at 500 miles!
A myth which won't die. Think about it. If the 500 mile oil change was for metal particles does it mean it's OK for metal particles to be in the oil for 500 miles but not 501? Is it OK for wet sump engines to have metal particles until the first oil change which is much great than 500 miles?
Originally Posted by Bunk
500, must be 500 so you can avoid possible failure due to steel pieces from manufacturing or oil filter entering the cylinders or valves.
Look up articles on this change, there are several authoritative ones.
I spoke with the dealer today and I was told to just drive the car to Florida and change the oil when I get there. This makes my life much easier I wasn't looking forward to going out of my way and then waiting for an oil change before getting underway for a long drive. On the other hand My car likely won't see 500 miles until Spring which is just fine with me!
Yes, my change oil indicator recently came on by base C7 at about 2000 miles - at almost exactly a year from when I purchased the car (and I have enjoyed everyone of those 2000 miles). I checked the manual several times and did not find any reference to oil change schedule other than 7500 miles. BTW, as per other posts, I found it very difficult to read the oil level on the hash marks. I was a little concerned it was overfilled - one side had the oil level to the very top of top hash mark (couldn't tell if it was above), I noticed the other side was slightly below top mark so I figured I am OK (as per previous posts on this topic - I think the stick goes in at a slight angle ?)
The OLM on the C7 takes calendar time into consideration, so it will read 0% at one year, even if not driven.
It has nothing to do with "steel pieces from manufacturing or oil filter entering the cylinders." See multiple posts above. It pertains to dry sump cars only and pertains to oil foaming from the new and curing silicone seals getting into the air intake, which can only happen on a dry sump system. It's done at 500 miles, because the seals have had a chance to cure.
It it were what you say it is, it would be required for all C7s, not just dry sump cars.
Foosh,
Thank you for correcting my post, yours is the definitive answer. However, there were multiple threads about new C7 engines blowing up at low miles, which I read before buying mine. The engines were replaced but I recall discussion about metal pieces in the oil filter as a possible contributing factor in at least one engine failure. So I made sure my first oil change was done at 467 miles due to that reading.
A myth which won't die. Think about it. If the 500 mile oil change was for metal particles does it mean it's OK for metal particles to be in the oil for 500 miles but not 501? Is it OK for wet sump engines to have metal particles until the first oil change which is much great than 500 miles?
Not a myth, friend, just an overreaction after reading about engine failures in new C7's on the forum for nearly two years before buying my C7 Z51 M7. That was one reason for me to make sure to change the oil by 500 miles, it was not the main reason.
My 2016 Z-51 was delivered Sept 21 2016 and the first oil change was done Oct 2015 at 500 miles and the second one was done Oct 2016 at 2,500 miles and i will do the last one Sept of this year when my car is 2 years old. All were done at my dealer with Mobil 1 and had them only put in 9 quarts and gave me the 10th quart to top it off. 2016 C7 Z-51 cars now get 3 oil changes but have to be done in 2 years.
Sorry, it is a myth. The recommended oil change has absolutely nothing to do with metal in the oil. Some early C7 oil filters were not correctly threaded and a piece of the thread broke off and went through the rod bearings. Draining and changing the oil would have done nothing to prevent the damage.
The oil change recommendation for the foaming issue came almost immediately after the oil filter issue was discovered. People associated the two events and surmised the oil change was to eliminate the metal. It is not and has never been the case. But the myth was born and is perpetuated here.
Anyone who has ever built an engine knows the number one rule is to make sure everything is clean. Metal particles from machining have to be removed prior to the engine being built. If you let them circulate through the engine for 500 miles you have already damaged the engine. Changing the oil after 500 miles will do no good at that point.
Originally Posted by Bunk
Not a myth, friend, just an overreaction after reading about engine failures in new C7's on the forum for nearly two years before buying my C7 Z51 M7. That was one reason for me to make sure to change the oil by 500 miles, it was not the main reason.
There appears to be a terrific amount of disagreement pertaining to oil changing intervals and oil filter replacements. Since this appears to be an issue resulting from opinions rather than facts owing to few of us being engineers involved in this area. My opinion is that I do not trust the level of competence of those employed in any facility whose function is to change oil or lubricants. We have all heard of the horror stories pertaining to the lack of interest or experience possessed by the people performing these duties. My main interest is to do what I can do to my C7 and leave to others what I cannot do. Oil changes are what I can do to protect my investment and will err on the side of caution by changing oil and filter at 500 miles as well as subsequent intervals. Stocking up on Mobil 1 and oil filters at wholesale clubs while on sale, and doing it yourself will save not only money but peace of mind in knowing it has been done right. This stems from the horrendous job performed by the dealer at the first oil change. It is very impressive reading about some of the mechanical skills possessed by members of this forum on topics which will never be attempted by me, but for reasons above, oil changes will be. Regards,
Ralph
There appears to be a terrific amount of disagreement pertaining to oil changing intervals and oil filter replacements. Since this appears to be an issue resulting from opinions rather than facts owing to few of us being engineers involved in this area. My opinion is that I do not trust the level of competence of those employed in any facility whose function is to change oil or lubricants. We have all heard of the horror stories pertaining to the lack of interest or experience possessed by the people performing these duties. My main interest is to do what I can do to my C7 and leave to others what I cannot do. Oil changes are what I can do to protect my investment and will err on the side of caution by changing oil and filter at 500 miles as well as subsequent intervals. Stocking up on Mobil 1 and oil filters at wholesale clubs while on sale, and doing it yourself will save not only money but peace of mind in knowing it has been done right. This stems from the horrendous job performed by the dealer at the first oil change. It is very impressive reading about some of the mechanical skills possessed by members of this forum on topics which will never be attempted by me, but for reasons above, oil changes will be. Regards,
Ralph
Great, as you say you'll feel better! It's easy and my last two changes I paid $22 for 5 quart jugs of 5-30 Mobil 1 at Walmart (meets GM dexos spec.) And Mobil had a rebate that was $12/jug and two allowed! $2/quart!
I did all my own changes on my C6 and do that on my Street Rod. i did NOT take advantage of the Free oil changes from GM (I could get 4.)
Funny when you mention engineers, as I are one! On my first job my boss would ask applicants if they changed their own oil! He wanted folks with some manual skills! He also asked if he gave you a meter would would put two fingers in two of the of the three holes in a wall socket. Being a gear head since I was 12 years old -I passed!
I'm also and engineer and prefer to change my own oil. However, I did take advantage of the free changes. Les Stanford is competent and I feel confident in letting them do it. There are many dealers in the metro area who I wouldn't trust to add air to the tires let alone do anything more.
I agree with your old boss. The best engineers I ever hired where ones who liked to get their hands dirty. There are book smart engineers and there are common sense go getters. I prefer the later.
Originally Posted by JerryU
Great, as you say you'll feel better! It's easy and my last two changes I paid $22 for 5 quart jugs of 5-30 Mobil 1 at Walmart (meets GM dexos spec.) And Mobil had a rebate that was $12/jug and two allowed! $2/quart!
I did all my own changes on my C6 and do that on my Street Rod. i did NOT take advantage of the Free oil changes from GM (I could get 4.)
Funny when you mention engineers, as I are one! on my first jon my boss would ask applicants if they changes their ow oil! He wanted folks with some manual skills! He also asked if he gave you a meter would would put two fingers in two of the of the three holes in a wall socket. Being a gear head since I was 12 years old -I passed!
Last edited by Boiler_81; Jan 8, 2017 at 05:07 PM.
For those that want to see what oil looks like at the 500 mile oil change I have attached my oil analysis from my Z06. I will let you guys be the judge if it is a good idea to change the oil at 500 miles. This engine was build by myself during my engine build experience at the PBC in Bowling Green. Perhaps that is why it is looking so good.
cheers!
Last edited by breakskeet; Jan 9, 2017 at 08:45 AM.
Thanks for posting your 500 mi. oil analysis, which is the first I've seen. It suggests one could go a little longer than 500 miles to let the silicone sealant material washout.