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The owners manual for my 2017 Grand Sport has conflicting information on the proper jacking location for the rear of the car when using a floor jack. There is one image of the underside rear of the car with an arrow pointing to the cross member just forward of the differential indicating that is the correct jacking location. There is also a diagram indicating the correct jacking location is the cross member just to the rear of the differential. Which one is correct? Thanks in advance for the help. I have done some Google searches and I can't find definitive info.
I do have a set of cross beam adapters on order from Smith Fabrication. I also plan to order a Service Manual from Helm once they are available.
The owners manual for my 2017 Grand Sport has conflicting information on the proper jacking location for the rear of the car when using a floor jack. There is one image of the underside rear of the car with an arrow pointing to the cross member just forward of the differential indicating that is the correct jacking location. There is also a diagram indicating the correct jacking location is the cross member just to the rear of the differential. Which one is correct? Thanks in advance for the help. I have done some Google searches and I can't find definitive info.
I do have a set of cross beam adapters on order from Smith Fabrication. I also plan to order a Service Manual from Helm once they are available.
Here is a pic I colored for clarity from the Service Manual.
This is a PDF with lots of details and "How To Make" a cross beam:
Thank you very much for these two links. The first one I had found in my previous searches but it did not clarify the conflicting info in the owners manual. The second link was a new posting and was extremely helpful as it had pictures from the service manual which provides a great deal more info. Thanks again.
Install the jacking pucks from ZL1addons and never have to worry again. Especially but not limited to dealer visits. My techs love that these are installed, makes it easy for them as well.
For changing tires, brake pads, or other brake work, it's far easier to use the blue jack points in the diagram above with jacking pucks. The so-called "preferred locations" are for the DIY person using jack stands at home for doing other work underneath the car.
Does anyone know if this Harbor Freight floor jack will work on a GS? It says minimum height is 3-3/8" which should be fine but you also have to reach in about 9" and since the side of the jack is tapered it is hard tell what the height is at that depth.
Any other suggestions for a floor jack that is known to work is appreciated.
Does anyone know if this Harbor Freight floor jack will work on a GS? It says minimum height is 3-3/8" which should be fine but you also have to reach in about 9" and since the side of the jack is tapered it is hard tell what the height is at that depth.
Any other suggestions for a floor jack that is known to work is appreciated.
See the PDF in my post #3.
It will work but with its very short lift arm it has to roll in over 2 inches when jacking to keep the saddle centered under the jacking puck. If not it can slip off-BAD!
Be sure whatever hydulic jack you buy, it is placed perpendicular to the car, the rear swivel wheels are pointed in the direction of the car. Then lift slowly and watch that the jack and saddle move in. Easy on my tiled garage floor, not as easy on my concrete driveway!
I want to get jacking pucks for my new GS. I went to Eckler's and found billet pucks for 2014-2017 Corvettes. I opened the link and in red print it said "does not fit 2017 models".....huh?
I know this subject has been beat to death, but what are the best jacking pucks out there for a 2017 2LT GS with side skirts? Thanks.
PS...my GS arrives tomorrow morning from MacMulkin.
JerryU, That is a heck of write up thanks. Is your concern with a floor jack needing to "travel" toward the center of the car while you are jacking that it may hangup and not move? I thought this traveling movement was exactly how the jack is designed to function so it really shouldn't be an issue should it? I always use a jack stand in conjunction with the jack even if I'm just changing a tire and not getting under the car.
I want to get jacking pucks for my new GS. I went to Eckler's and found billet pucks for 2014-2017 Corvettes. I opened the link and in red print it said "does not fit 2017 models".....huh?
I know this subject has been beat to death, but what are the best jacking pucks out there for a 2017 2LT GS with side skirts? Thanks.
PS...my GS arrives tomorrow morning from MacMulkin.
FWIW I bought KaTech 2 1/2 inch diameter 2 inch high pucks for my 2014 Z51 when I added LG Motorsports side skirts and the higher lift was needed.
However always worried that the mechanics would not use them even though I left them on the passenger seat in a clear plastic bag! Even if the dealer has them, mechanics don't like to "waste time" going to the tool crib to get out tools! They jack up most other cars and trucks without problems. With a Vette they have a chance of cracking the rocker panes. Just have to hope they are not taking a chance on your car!
This is a cleaver design. When jacking at home (I do my own oil changes etc) I'll use them like the Katech. Slip in and take out.
However if going to the dealer or tire shop for whatever, I'll remove the spacer on those pucks and lock them on the car. When I'm back home I remove them. Great product, IMO
FWIW I bought KaTech 2 1/2 inch diameter 2 inch high pucks for my 2014 Z51 when I added LG Motorsports side skirts and the higher lift was needed.
However always worried that the mechanics would not use them even though I left them on the passenger seat in a clear plastic bag! Even if the dealer has them, mechanics don't like to "waste time" going to the tool crib to get out tools! They jack up most other cars and trucks without problems. With a Vette they have a chance of cracking the rocker panes. Just have to hope they are not taking a chance on your car!
This is a cleaver design. When jacking at home (I do my own oil changes etc) I'll use them like the Katech. Slip in and take out.
However if going to the dealer or tire shop for whatever, I'll remove the spacer on those pucks and lock them on the car. When I'm back home I remove them. Great product, IMO
Since I don't have the facility to do my own oil changes, my dealer allows me to watch the tech when they do oil changes and any other work. I will hand the pucks to the tech personally when I need to use them, thanks.
Does anyone know if this Harbor Freight floor jack will work on a GS? It says minimum height is 3-3/8" which should be fine but you also have to reach in about 9" and since the side of the jack is tapered it is hard tell what the height is at that depth. Any other suggestions for a floor jack that is known to work is appreciated.
I've had the HFT 68050 for four years and it has worked great with my C6 and two C7s (Stingray and GS). It's long reach and low profile makes it perfect for these cars, and it's two-ton rating is plenty. Be advised that at ~90# it is no lightweight, but it isn't a problem wheeling it around my garage.
I also bought the Cross Beam Adapter #60762, but in its current configuration it is too wide for the C7. I pulled out the two adjustable end sections and fixed two small 2x4 squares on the base unit at the correct width. Others have used 2x4 sections instead and just centered it on the jack pad, which is a cheaper solution. This X-beam adapter fits "most" Pittsburg jacks, including the 68050. It's too high to fit under the car, even with a low-profile jack, so I made some ramps with 2x12" boards (<$10) that gets the car up about 3½" so the jack and X-beam will fit. The jack alone does not have any clearance issues inserting ≤18".
I've had the HFT 68050 for four years and it has worked great with my C6 and two C7s (Stingray and GS). It's long reach and low profile makes it perfect for these cars, and it's two-ton rating is plenty. Be advised that at ~90# it is no lightweight, but it isn't a problem wheeling it around my garage.
I also bought the Cross Beam Adapter #60762, but in its current configuration it is too wide for the C7. I pulled out the two adjustable end sections and fixed two small 2x4 squares on the base unit at the correct width. Others have used 2x4 sections instead and just centered it on the jack pad, which is a cheaper solution. This X-beam adapter fits "most" Pittsburg jacks, including the 68050. It's too high to fit under the car, even with a low-profile jack, so I made some ramps with 2x12" boards (<$10) that gets the car up about 3½" so the jack and X-beam will fit. The jack alone does not have any clearance issues inserting ≤18".
Love DIY solutions! After I had an issue with a short arm harbor freight jack bought exactly the jack you have! But since I now have three hydraulic jacks, I use two with jack pads to lift the car just high enough to get my large jack and home made cross beam under the correct jacking locations. Your solution with the purchased cross beam is excellent.
I've had the HFT 68050 for four years and it has worked great with my C6 and two C7s (Stingray and GS). It's long reach and low profile makes it perfect for these cars, and it's two-ton rating is plenty. Be advised that at ~90# it is no lightweight, but it isn't a problem wheeling it around my garage.
I also bought the Cross Beam Adapter #60762, but in its current configuration it is too wide for the C7. I pulled out the two adjustable end sections and fixed two small 2x4 squares on the base unit at the correct width. Others have used 2x4 sections instead and just centered it on the jack pad, which is a cheaper solution. This X-beam adapter fits "most" Pittsburg jacks, including the 68050. It's too high to fit under the car, even with a low-profile jack, so I made some ramps with 2x12" boards (<$10) that gets the car up about 3½" so the jack and X-beam will fit. The jack alone does not have any clearance issues inserting ≤18".
I saw that low profile long reach unit but the 93lb weight is a turn off unless the aluminum one won't work. I have HF near my work so I am going to check them out tomorrow.
I saw that low profile long reach unit but the 93lb weight is a turn off unless the aluminum one won't work. I have HF near my work so I am going to check them out tomorrow.
It will work, but if your going to HF bring a tape measure and buy the one with the longest arm that fits your weight and price objectives. They have many to pick from.
JerryU, That is a heck of write up thanks. Is your concern with a floor jack needing to "travel" toward the center of the car while you are jacking that it may hangup and not move? I thought this traveling movement was exactly how the jack is designed to function so it really shouldn't be an issue should it? I always use a jack stand in conjunction with the jack even if I'm just changing a tire and not getting under the car.
Yep, as you say that is the way it is supposed to work. Does that on my tiled garage floor but when I jack it up on my concrete driveway it does not always move in sifficiently. I watch very carefully (most times!) and occationally have to lower the jack an start over. The large rollers used for front wheels on some HF jacks are worse in that regard. The shorter the lift ard the higher the lift, the more it must move in.
After measuring all of the HF aluminum floor jacks it didn't look like they would fit so ended up getting the steel long reach jack. It should work like a charm.
After measuring all of the HF aluminum floor jacks it didn't look like they would fit so ended up getting the steel long reach jack. It should work like a charm.
Hope someone helped get it in your car! I didn't know how much it weighed when I bought it. A HF employee helped put it on a buggy and I wheeled it to my SUV. Could slide it in! Not really a big deal once it's in the garage as I just wheel it around!