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I have a small scuff mark (1/8" x 6") where the top of the front license plate holder would sit. The prior owner lived where a front license plate was required and I do not. I tried wax with a fair amount of elbow grease which did not work.
Sounds like the scuff is in the clear coat. If so, try a dual action variable speed orbital polisher. Start with a mild polishing pad/polish and work your way up. The DA with help to prevent removing the clear coat. Be careful with any edges where the paint is the thinnest. There are many options. I've had great results w/the below:
Adams sells a Hand Revive Polish that is a cheap first step. You buy the polish and corresponding pad and it works on light scuffs and swirl marks. I have some, used it with good success.
Before polishing, I would look to be sure it has not gone all the way through the clear coat. If it has, you'll ever get it to look right.
Personally for such a narrow scratch, I would avoid a power polisher. I prefer, back and forth motions with my finger over the scratch, so you are only abrading the affected area. I have had good luck the the Zaino two stage scratch remover. It starts out course, and then gradually turns to a fine abrasive as you rub.
I misread the OP's post. I though that a scratch removal substance was already used. My go-to for light scratches is Meguiar's Scratch X.
As mentioned, it's hard to recommend something without knowing the extent of the damage. If it's just a scuff, any light abrasive scratch removal should work with just hand buffing. If deeper, then a more abrasive substance, up to and including a DA, may be necessary. GL.
Mine had a nose wart attached when I bought it, and by the time I arrived home (500 miles) to where the screwdrivers resided, there was a scratch mark in the paint. 20/20 says I should have stopped and bought one before lunch that first day. It doesn't take long with that horrid plate frame.
That said, I buffed it out with DA orbiter. Griots, 3" is the one I used for this (with Adams polish and an orange pad finished with a red one). I have several, but that is the one that fit that particular job.
That said again, it is always best to try the least aggressive option first, especially if you don't have much or any experience with polishing paint/more precisely clear coat. If the plate has been on the nose for awhile, chances are the scratches are fairly deep, though , but again, the clear coat on Corvettes is pretty hard, so it can withstand both abrasion and polishing fairly well.
If it's a light scuff (not scratched) Turtle wax has a scratch and swirl remover that works just fine at less than 3 bucks a bottle. Had a scuff on the bumper of mine, and the Turtle took care of it. I was happy 'cause I didn't want to buy any of that high dollar stuff, and it go bad before I needed it again.
Last edited by Rebel Yell; May 3, 2017 at 03:12 PM.
I have a picture but I think it is misleading. I'll post it a little later.
When I drag my finger across the lengthwise scuff I do not even feel it. When I drag my finger along the lengthwise scuff it feels only a little worse than 600 grit sandpaper.
I misread the OP's post. I though that a scratch removal substance was already used. My go-to for light scratches is Meguiar's Scratch X.
As mentioned, it's hard to recommend something without knowing the extent of the damage. If it's just a scuff, any light abrasive scratch removal should work with just hand buffing. If deeper, then a more abrasive substance, up to and including a DA, may be necessary. GL.
Yes it does. I had a scuff on mine and used that product. It took me about 15 minutes of elbow grease, but it removed the scuff without damage to the surrounding paint.
Scuff mark
