I have a 2016 A8 which has been having the RPM fluctuation at steady cruising while in V4 mode, 150-200 RPMs. I know I can put the shifter in manual to keep it in V8 mode. But I bought an automatic because I want an automatic, I hardly use the manual shift feature. I know that goes contrary to the thinking of many on here, but I have been driving since 1963 and when it comes to stick shifts, I fall into the category of "been there, done that". My last manual was my 1993 6 speed C4.
But back to my query. I bought a Range AFM delete device which worked perfectly for about five driving cycles. Then last night, when leaving a local car show, after starting the car, (with the unit still plugged into the OBD port), there was a check engine light. Also when I put the transmission in drive it went directly into 4th gear. That's right, 4th, with the number 4 displayed in the instruments. Even after I pulled out the Range device while still sitting in the parking lot, restarting the engine, moving the shifter through all settings, into and out of manual mode, when in anything other that park or reverse, it was lodged in 4th gear. I finally gave up and drove it home stuck in 4th. Yes it feels sluggish when leaving a stop when in 4th. When I got home I shut the car off for a few seconds, started it, and reinstalled the Range unit while the car was running. Instant success, no CEL, and a test drive showed the transmission is again acting normal, for this A8. Notice that I said it was acting normal, not "right", as this transmission just has never felt right to me.

I am tired of dealerships, and Paul Koerner, telling me just to keep driving it, it will get better. That is why I decided to try the Range unit. My question now is, has anyone who has been using the Range installed with the extension cord, with integral off/on switch, thus not leaving it activated while the car is off, had any CEL or other issues. And for those who are using a switch, do you turn on the device before or after starting the car, and what order of shutdown do you use at the end of a drive? Any input please?

 

Hello,

I cannot give you a direct answer as mine is a '15 and does not seem to suffer the Range CEL problems. But perhaps this will help you.

How To: Range AFM Disabler – No More Parasitic Battery Drain via Relay in Cord

 

I switch the Range on after the car is started and backed out of the garage or if in a parked position after it has obtained a steady idle. I switch the Range off when it is in a parked position and still running, and than I switch off the ignition. So far no CEL problems. Have used the Range for the past 300 miles or so. Car is a 2016 and has about 2300 miles.

 

I would like a Range unit, but sorry guys -- let me know when I can just plug it in and forget about it. It seems that from lots of other forum posts, they are pretty "buggy" at times, will kill your battery if you forget to take it out or don't install the switch. JMO for a couple hundred bucks I want to plug it in and forget about it. I understand several types of tunes will disable the AFM also, but warranty risk is an issue I also don't want to deal with.

I'm open to changing my mind if a majority of members voice in with "works great- no problems"

 

 

Same here. If Range would just update the thing to work correctly, I'd purchase one right away. Not dealing with CELs and dead batteries.

 

I think the key is to turn on the Range after starting the car. Then you should be fine, as it sends an "all clear" to the system when plugged in hot.

 

No interested in something I have to remember to unplug every time I stop the car and remember to plug in after I get the car started and drive away.

Its broken because its an incomplete or outdated design. Range needs to update the product to work properly rather than users trying to find a way around the problems.

 

 

Here's my story with the Range AFM and my 2017 GS:

I bought the Range AFM disabler directly from Range and an inline on/off switch from Amazon.

Used it for about 3 weeks, no problems.

Then the car started experiencing CELs. Starting/restarting the car didn't clear the CEL, but starting the car and then plugging in the Range or turning it on via the switch, cleared the CEL.

That being said, and this is my opinion, I didn't buy a $200 device to have it negatively impact my $80k car (fully realizing it doesn't permanently alter the tune, but none the less, it shouldn't cause CELs).

When I bought it, i was under the impression from reading reviews that they had fixed teh CEL problem on Vettes, but obviously this is not the case. And I'm concerned about more serious issues such as you're experiencing. Range CS told me that 99% of cars don't exhibit any issues, which I know is just hyperbole.

I spoke with customer service, and I have since returned it for a refund, and when they get it 100% operational, I'll consider buying another unit. Until then, I'll drive in manual.

 

I posted this in many other threads, but never heard of anyone trying this. Diablo Sport makes a similar module. Not a turne, same plug-in like the Range. But everyone seems to buy the range for some reason... I have yet to find one person that used this in a vette... Everyone seems to buy the Range even with all the documented issues and no one tries the equivalent Diablo for some reason?

 

Thanks for all the feedback so far. I obviously agree that Range Technology is loosing credibility, as each version is supposed to fix the CEL problem, none have so far. I think mine is an 8.1 version. But my larger complaint is with GM doing the same game with at least three revisions to torque converters, and at least four "fixes" for the RPM variation/shudder problem.

 

Just for reference, the unit I returned was 8.2R

 

That's probably because people assume that all Diablo products change the tune, which isn't true. The S1000 is the Range AFM equivalent, and it's OBD2 port based, no tune alterations.

I just spoke with them, and I'm going to give their s1000 device a try. I'm not seeing any feedback about CELs on theirs, so I'll see how it goes. They have a 30 days return policy.

I'll report back with results.

 

Damn CEL happened to me today with my Range. Thought I might have been a lucky one

 

Thunder22, yes please, if you give the Diablo unit a try, let us know how it compares to the Range. I am afraid that if the two brands use the same circuit board internally, perhaps bought from an outside supplier, they may be identical. If some one has used the Diablo for a while with no CEL's set, maybe it is a different and better unit. I noticed that they are the same price.

 

I don't think the circuitry is in question, it's the firm/software. I've been scouring websites looking for negative reviews or any that mention CEL problems with the Diablo product and I can't find any, but then again, I've only been looking for a short time, I'll keep looking.

Device should be here by Tuesday, so don't look for updates before then.

 

davanz,.. I experienced the same thing with my Range AFM.
Never threw any codes but started off in 4th once until I stopped and restarted the car.
Another time it wouldn't start until I removed the Range.
This was back in late 2015 into early 2016 and put about 400 miles on it before I stopped using it.
Didn't like not knowing when I might be stuck somewhere without warning.
Apparently they're still not fool proof yet ......

 

EXACTLY freakin THIS.

 

I have a 2016 Z06 and the Range module threw its first CEL while I was on vacation (about 4 months after I bought the Z). Two weeks later it happened again.

Unplugging the Range and restarting the car will clear the DTC (loss of communications with TCM) and resume normal operation but the CEL won't extinguish until after several starts without fault are completed.

I usually drive in manual mode but I did use the Range today. I have a switched OBD-II extension plug and I turn it on a few seconds after starting the car and used that way it never has a problem.

Unless you want to play torque converter roulette I would either deal with the Range shortcomings or drive in manual mode. The wear that results in excessive RPM fluctuation and shudder only gets worse with time.

It is inconvenient to switch the Range module on and off AND you can add a simple external circuit to do this for you automatically but regardless of Range operational shortcomings I would rather deal with minor Range inconvenience than the major transmission operation inconvenience brought to us by a major GM screwup.