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Old 07-17-2017, 12:54 PM
  #21  
Thunder22
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Originally Posted by vbdenny
I noticed when turning on the Range that it takes about 5-10 seconds for the blue light to stop flashing and go solid. I start the car, let it idle down then switch it on. When i park I turn it off before shutting down. Haven't had one problem with mine, works perfectly. Running in V-8 for 1200 miles last week noticed fuel economy at 27 as opposed to 31 with Range off on previous trips. I do use the throttle so no hyper-miling for me.

(27mpg from a 460hp V-8? Never would have believed it possible)
You must drive on incredibly flat roads at 55MPH. The best I can get is 21 and that's with behaving myself somewhat.
Old 07-17-2017, 03:05 PM
  #22  
Rebel Yell
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Originally Posted by vbdenny
I noticed when turning on the Range that it takes about 5-10 seconds for the blue light to stop flashing and go solid. I start the car, let it idle down then switch it on. When i park I turn it off before shutting down. Haven't had one problem with mine, works perfectly. Running in V-8 for 1200 miles last week noticed fuel economy at 27 as opposed to 31 with Range off on previous trips. I do use the throttle so no hyper-miling for me.

(27mpg from a 460hp V-8? Never would have believed it possible)
vb, myself I have been patiently waiting for Range to settle the problem with their disabler. But, what you said here is interesting. My '16 base isn't driven everyday, heck not even every other day for that matter. I'm not really wanting a switch, so here's my question. Would it be possible, and feasible to just plug/unplug the unit in the same manner you use your switch? And, do you think that could belay the problems with CEL's. I'm old, and quite technologically challenged so I ask those in the know. Thanks in advance my friend.

Jim
Old 07-17-2017, 03:55 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Rebel Yell
vb, myself I have been patiently waiting for Range to settle the problem with their disabler. But, what you said here is interesting. My '16 base isn't driven everyday, heck not even every other day for that matter. I'm not really wanting a switch, so here's my question. Would it be possible, and feasible to just plug/unplug the unit in the same manner you use your switch? And, do you think that could belay the problems with CEL's. I'm old, and quite technologically challenged so I ask those in the know. Thanks in advance my friend.

Jim
yes, you can plug/unplug it, but the obd2 port isn't designed to endure that much wear/tear IMO.
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:06 PM
  #24  
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I plug/unplug mine when I use it (paddle shift mostly)
seems to solve the problem with CEL's
of course the new problem is remembering to unplug it
this problem also applies to the switch approach
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:33 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Thunder22
yes, you can plug/unplug it, but the obd2 port isn't designed to endure that much wear/tear IMO.
Originally Posted by drobbins
I plug/unplug mine when I use it (paddle shift mostly)
seems to solve the problem with CEL's
of course the new problem is remembering to unplug it
this problem also applies to the switch approach
I'm of a mind to just keep using manual mode. May be the best the way I use mine anyhoo. Thanks guys, I'll continue to pondering this conundrum.
Old 07-17-2017, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Rebel Yell
I'm of a mind to just keep using manual mode. May be the best the way I use mine anyhoo. Thanks guys, I'll continue to pondering this conundrum.
The switched OBD-II extension cord is the simplest current solution and I wouldn't want to manually plug/unplug for a long period of time. The OBD-II port is robust and it would hold up to this frequent cycle usage for quite a while but it isn't a good idea.

I often shift mine manually and it is very convenient to do so because the car will down shift automatically even in manual mode as the speed slows so you only have to worry about upshifts during most driving.

BUT there is a safety concern for someone who treats the C7 (or other similar paddle shift automatics) as a "nearly automatic manual mode" and that is when an emergency occurs and you need rapid acceleration. If you forget to downshift precious time will be lost while you realize your mistake and that can easily be the difference between avoiding and being part of an accident. I have a Z06 which has a lot of torque but if you are four gears higher than optimal you are still going to be seriously acceleration limited. So when driving in manual mode stay alert for the times you may need to suddenly downshift and remember that holding in the left paddle will automatically choose the lowest range available at that road speed which MAY be the best choice but you should also be prepared to upshift quickly since that optimal range may put the engine near its governed speed.
Old 07-17-2017, 07:30 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by NSC5
The switched OBD-II extension cord is the simplest current solution and I wouldn't want to manually plug/unplug for a long period of time. The OBD-II port is robust and it would hold up to this frequent cycle usage for quite a while but it isn't a good idea.

I often shift mine manually and it is very convenient to do so because the car will down shift automatically even in manual mode as the speed slows so you only have to worry about upshifts during most driving.

BUT there is a safety concern for someone who treats the C7 (or other similar paddle shift automatics) as a "nearly automatic manual mode" and that is when an emergency occurs and you need rapid acceleration. If you forget to downshift precious time will be lost while you realize your mistake and that can easily be the difference between avoiding and being part of an accident. I have a Z06 which has a lot of torque but if you are four gears higher than optimal you are still going to be seriously acceleration limited. So when driving in manual mode stay alert for the times you may need to suddenly downshift and remember that holding in the left paddle will automatically choose the lowest range available at that road speed which MAY be the best choice but you should also be prepared to upshift quickly since that optimal range may put the engine near its governed speed.
Good advise my friend. I will keep that information in my mind. I use the manual more in the city where it has a tendency to move in/out of V8 way to often, thus causing the infamous shake or shudder at times. On a road trip cruising the interstate I usually let it do it's thing.

Last edited by Rebel Yell; 07-17-2017 at 07:31 PM.
Old 07-17-2017, 07:43 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Rebel Yell
Good advise my friend. I will keep that information in my mind. I use the manual more in the city where it has a tendency to move in/out of V8 way to often, thus causing the infamous shake or shudder at times. On a road trip cruising the interstate I usually let it do it's thing.
Just be aware that while it is running in V4 mode cruising on the interstate the torque converter clutch is being continuously cycled to allow "micro-slips" which reduces vibration but results in accelerated issues with the converter lockup clutch. Although V4 mode will increase economy somewhat, probably more with the LT1 than the LT4, take into consideration the hassle of in-warranty converter replacement and if you plan to keep your C7 out of warranty it is an expensive proposition.

I have been using the Range module (switched on after start) the last few days after driving in manual mode most of last year and all of this driving season and I had forgotten how well the A8 shifts in full auto. Earlier this evening I was driving on one of the 55 MPH 2 lane rural roads in this area and a little convertible pulled out of a side road directly in front of me doing about 20 MPH. A quick touch up the throttle and I blasted by quickly and probably gave the driver a well deserved scare because a Z06 with the exhaust in track mode at near full throttle makes a lot of noise
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:47 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by NSC5
The first new car I ordered was in the Fall of 1984 when I bought a 1985 Monte Carlo SS with a 180 HP 305CID (5L) V8. My 1985 got the 4 speed OD automatic but during those lower speed limit times it would get 24 MPG on the interstate cruising at a fairly police safe 64 MPH (55 MPH national speed limit). My 2016 Z06 with its 6.2L 650HP engine shows a steady 26 MPG cruising at 80 MPH on the interstate running in V8 mode with the Range.

Progress is great
26 @ 80 on the Z just blows my mind. Very impressive milage these cars get. I think we should qualify for the Prius lanes. I had a 1970 Buick with a 455 THM400 and 12bolt posi. 8 (eight) mpg on premuim. Ahh how times have changed.
Old 07-17-2017, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by NSC5
Just be aware that while it is running in V4 mode cruising on the interstate the torque converter clutch is being continuously cycled to allow "micro-slips" which reduces vibration but results in accelerated issues with the converter lockup clutch. Although V4 mode will increase economy somewhat, probably more with the LT1 than the LT4, take into consideration the hassle of in-warranty converter replacement and if you plan to keep your C7 out of warranty it is an expensive proposition.

I have been using the Range module (switched on after start) the last few days after driving in manual mode most of last year and all of this driving season and I had forgotten how well the A8 shifts in full auto. Earlier this evening I was driving on one of the 55 MPH 2 lane rural roads in this area and a little convertible pulled out of a side road directly in front of me doing about 20 MPH. A quick touch up the throttle and I blasted by quickly and probably gave the driver a well deserved scare because a Z06 with the exhaust in track mode at near full throttle makes a lot of noise
This is disturbing as I just drove over 1000 miles, mostly on I95 using ECO mode and cruise control with my Range off. I didn't notice any RPM fluctuations or shudder. I got a new TC last December. Hope I won't need another one soon.
Old 07-17-2017, 07:54 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Rebel Yell
vb, myself I have been patiently waiting for Range to settle the problem with their disabler. But, what you said here is interesting. My '16 base isn't driven everyday, heck not even every other day for that matter. I'm not really wanting a switch, so here's my question. Would it be possible, and feasible to just plug/unplug the unit in the same manner you use your switch? And, do you think that could belay the problems with CEL's. I'm old, and quite technologically challenged so I ask those in the know. Thanks in advance my friend.

Jim
Well my rebel friend, absolutely you can unplug it from the extension. No wear and tear on your port and when the switch is off, outlet is dead anyway. Not sure the reason to disconnect. Had mine in for more than 6 months. IF you leave the switch ON, your battery will deplete in about 3-4 days. If your battery maintainer is pluged in then you're fine.

Denny

Last edited by vbdenny; 07-17-2017 at 07:54 PM. Reason: Sp
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:08 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by rmorin1249
This is disturbing as I just drove over 1000 miles, mostly on I95 using ECO mode and cruise control with my Range off. I didn't notice any RPM fluctuations or shudder. I got a new TC last December. Hope I won't need another one soon.
It would be nice to think that GM has sourced a converter robust enough to stand up to their voodoo but given that several 2017 model year vehicles have experienced the issue I don't believe they have yet. I posted a link on one of these threads that provided a short history of the different materials that have been used for the converter lock-up clutch since they became common several decades earlier. It appears that every time a more robust material is created GM comes up with a method to break it

It is a good thing that diesel engines don't need AFM since they aren't trying to pull air past a partially closed throttle plate. The Allison 1000 auto used in the heavy duty pickups since 2001 are just about bullet proof. The current Duramax diesel produces 445 HP/910 ft.lb. torque and in this application the Allison torque converter can stay locked including for a full throttle downshift from any gear to as low as second. The powertrain is certified to a GCWR of over 31,000 pounds (truck plus trailer) but I expect even this robust setup could easily be destroyed by poor programming.

Last edited by NSC5; 07-17-2017 at 08:09 PM.



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