using a heavy duty sissor jack and puck to remove my rear passenger side tire. ( Don't own a floor jack ) I am thinking of putting one jack stand at the rear passenger side jack point bar for safety just in the remote chance the sissor jack fails. I have read on the forum that someone said you have to use a a piece of wood To go fully across the rear jack point bar not just one Side or or you can crack the lift point because it is weak aluminum. Is this true.Need opinions.. Can I use just one jack stand in the rear passanger side jack point ? Thanks

 

I cannot specifically answer your question as posed because I don't have nor would I use a scissor jack on these cars, and I'm not a big fan of using wood across the rear cross member to jack up both rear wheels with a single jack, although some have done it. I always worry that with the lumber are you really putting the weight where it needs to be so you don't accidently bend the aluminum cross member.

If you invest in any decent low rise floor jack, I've never had a car that was easier to lift and put on jack stands than the C7.

I just did my first DIY oil and filter change about a month ago (first one since m '15 came out of warranty) and jacking from the rear jack point (I have the permanently installed jack pucks) with a single floor jack and the car raises high enough to easily slide a jack stand under the front and rear support points. Go to the other side and repeat and all 4 wheels are off the ground and the car's on jack stands. I own a set of 3 ton Esco aluminum jack stands that have wide bases and flat rubber covered heads, which work well. Boy they were pricey but I'm always working under one car or another, but I digress.

See the thread linked below for where you can support the car on jack stands and jacking points. If you are comfortable the scissor jack will sit stable enough under one of the identified jack points, it should be ok but don't lift higher than you need to in order to remove the wheel & just watch your body parts (feet, etc...) as scissor jacks can topple over.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...fications.html

 

At the track, I've used a scissor jack to raise just one corner for a tire change. A hockey puck or 6" piece of 2 x 4 will distribute the load on the frame rail near the shipping slot, and ensure the jack does not press against the plastic rocker panel.

I take precautions-
Never put part of your body under the car.
Be sure the jack is stable on a hard surface.
Don't leave it unattended, or lifted for longer than necessary.

Worked for me...

As mentioned, a low profile floor jack is nicer.

 

Maybe I was not totally clear. I am NOT putting the sissor jack by the rear lift point by the gas tank I am using it in the lift hole right near the rocker panel. The jack stand I would slide near the rear lift point just in the remote chance the sissor jack failed. Not sure if I am being clear.My sissor jack is a heavy duty one with a wide base for not tipping.

 

These are the words from GM's in the 2016 four volume Service Manual.



I had been posting a similar pic from the 2014 Service Manual that only defined the furthest most front cross member as being capable of being lifted in the center (the one that is Green.) That changed in the 2016 Service manual BUT it clearly says use a pad between the jack and car. The C7, unlike the C6 has hollow cross members. That saved 25% of the weight. Would think a piece of 1/2 inch wood would satisfy the statement but don't know for sure. There are folks who do it because they did for their C6! Not logical but no reports of cracks.

 

I understand.
In my own case, I took the precautions listed and accepted the slight risk of the jack failing and the car dropping down.

 

Hmm, not sure I am clear! If you are lifting via the frame rail, locations is blue in y pic above, you must use a 2 1/2 inch diameter max lifting pad in the "shipping slots" as they are called" OR you can crack a rocker panel!

I use pads from Reverse Logic a forum vendor. See pic.


Story from Dealer About Cracking a Rocker Panel.
For my C6 always put 4 jack pads in a clear plastic bag on the passenger seat and asked the service write to be sure to tell the mechanics to use them. When I got my 2014 C7 GM requested I have the dif fluid checked. Did the same with my 4 jack pads and asked the service writer (great person i got to know with my C6) to be sure they were used. She said, "Don't worry I will insist they use the alignment rack (not their ~14 center post lifts) as we just cracked a Vette rocker panel and are having to have it repaired!"

Note the rocker panel is one piece that goes up on each side of the door. It is glued in place! An expensive repair! Your car your choice! But suggest you buy one pad from what you describe.



I like scissor jacks as no need to worry about the jack having to move into the car as with a hydraulic low profile jack. The one in the pic is 40+ years old! Now have 4 hydraulic jacks so I use them! Note jack pad in slot on frame.

 

Yep that's what I am using the reverse Logic pads. They seem to be the best. Reason for removing the wheel is I am taking it to have a scrape fixed from touching the curb. Car will sit on jack for about a day maybe two

 

I will need to get those pads.

 

You can also get hockey pucks, and eyebolts from Home Depot.
Drill a slightly undersize hole through the center of each puck and let the eyebolt thread its way in. You can adjust the eyebolts in or out so the pucks fit slightly snug into the frame slots.
One puck per corner is usually enough, I keep a second set with 3M mounting tape to stack if I need a double thickness for something.

I made two sets of 4, one set stays in my garage and the other stays in the rear cubby. Still doing fine after 17 years.

 

I would be very leery of jacking up my Corvette with a scissor jack especially if you are using pucks at the jack point. There is nothing to cup the puck like a floor jack has

 

I agree, and would advise against it. I prefer the ReverseLogic pucks as well.

 

Lots of good advice here. No excuse to use a scissors jack when you can get a hydraulic floor jack from Harbor Freight for $60 or $70. And use jacking pucks, reverse logic are my fav.

 

Just the opposite, IMO! Don’t need a “cup or recess” on the top of a sizzle jack since it lifts straight up versus a “hydraulic jack” that MUST move in to keep the saddle centered under the puck.

No longer use mine as now have 4 hydraulic jacks including one long reach that has to only move in 1.2 inches to match the lift of my light, short arm “race jack.” The short arm jack must move in 2.5 inches to keep the saddle centered under puck. But that long arm jack weighs ~95 lbs and doesn’t roll into the car at all! Made that jack saddle 5//8 inches high by welding on a lip so it captures a 1 inch high jack puck.

Never had an issue. for the many years of using sizzler jack including all those when I had a C6 and used it and one inexpensive hydraulic jack. When I built my Street Rod bought the other jacks.

 

Yes, the scissor jack lifts straight up, however if only jacking up one side the C7, it and the puck attached to it are being raised at a considerable angle. Not a good idea to use a scissor jack in combination with a puck IMO.