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2019 come with 0w-40 so some owners of older C7 are encouraged to use it. You might want to get a new oil filler cap also that states what oil in in the engine. I think dealers supply those free with oil change when you change your spec.
You only need to use 0w-40 if you track your car and drive it hard. But, if you are doing that, you should have a dry sump system. You should also drain your DOT 4 brake fluid and put in DOT 3. The DOT 4 can boil if you track the car very hard.
99.9% of drivers, including myself, don’t need these changes to have a perfectly performing car.
2019 come with 0w-40 so some owners of older C7 are encouraged to use it. You might want to get a new oil filler cap also that states what oil in in the engine. I think dealers supply those free with oil change when you change your spec. You only need to use 0w-40 if you track your car and drive it hard. But, if you are doing that, you should have a dry sump system. You should also drain your DOT 4 brake fluid and put in DOT 3. The DOT 4 can boil if you track the car very hard.
99.9% of drivers, including myself, don’t need these changes to have a perfectly performing car.
I switched from 5w-30 to 0w-40 in my '17 GS because I take it out on some cold clear winter days if no chemicals on road an the 0w-40 provides much better protection for cold weather starts. I'm willing to spend a little extra $ for that engine protection.
2019 come with 0w-40 so some owners of older C7 are encouraged to use it. You might want to get a new oil filler cap also that states what oil in in the engine. I think dealers supply those free with oil change when you change your spec.
You only need to use 0w-40 if you track your car and drive it hard. But, if you are doing that, you should have a dry sump system. You should also drain your DOT 4 brake fluid and put in DOT 3. The DOT 4 can boil if you track the car very hard.
99.9% of drivers, including myself, don’t need these changes to have a perfectly performing car.
DOT4 is what you need for track duty, not the other way around.
I called Speeeway for clarification. I have a feeling that it's indeed the right product, but their title is a copy paste disaster. Their technical staff will be back on Monday. I'll either call them during the week, or put an order, asking them to check part number before shipping. Hmm, yeah I'll just do that actually.
Sorry for the delay sir! The part number is correct and the oil we sell is the green bottle/label ESP Mobil 1 oil that you were wanting to order. If you like I can call you and help you place an order, just send me a phone number to call. Otherwise you can place the order online.
Seems like they don't want you using anything over 30 weight oil. The 0W-40 would be good for cold starts but not when it gets up to temperature. That's if you use the manual as gospel. Might not be. Who do you ask? GM? I'd probably just use the same thing we're using in the C7's (0W-40 ESP Dexos 2). I seem to remember someone at GM saying that you could run it in older vettes but I don't have the source of that.
Dry sump only takes about 9.5 quarts so be careful.
It's actually 10.5 quarts, but GM decided to reduce the limit to 9.8 to reduce chances of frothing (there was a hold sale for 2014 models until they could supply new dip sticks).
500 mile change is coming up, and I'll likely change it yet again after the first track day, hence stocking up.
It's actually 10.5 quarts, but GM decided to reduce the limit to 9.8 to reduce chances of frothing (there was a hold sale for 2014 models until they could supply new dip sticks).
500 mile change is coming up, and I'll likely change it yet again after the first track day, hence stocking up.
I would recommend caution in filling a dry sump with 9.8 quarts for an oil change as you will never completely drain ALL the old oil. Adding 9 quarts typically takes it to about midway in the cross-hatched marks on the dry sump stick.
Last edited by Kevin A Jones; 12-20-2018 at 02:38 AM.
Also be careful with the wet sumps too, even though the owner's manual lists 7 quarts, I (and others) have found that when you put in 6 quarts after draining the oil (even after letting it drain 20-30min) it shows up as full on the dipstick. So putting in 7 would show a huge overfill. I don't know why they haven't updated the manual to reflect this, I bet a lot of dealerships are overfilling the wet sump cars.
Help please. Thanks. BTW out of warranty so far as I know 2013 10k miles, unless it's a CA emissions thing or such.
You can spend the extra money if you want BUT I'm in SC and (as you note) have no need for 0 versus 5 weight. My 2017 Grand Sport came with dexos 1 5W-30 and until I can buy the new 0W-40 dexos 2 ESP oil for close to the price of other 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 at Walmart and get their rebates so I am paying ~$2.50 quart I'm going to use what came with the car! I have performed all my own oil changes in my 2014 and now my Grand Sport. That is what you read in your manual and what you should use.
NOTE: The 2 your referring to is before the dexos word, as you not it is a version that replaced version 1 BUT is NOT dexos 2 which is required for diesels and since the new oil meets the diesel spec is what is on it!
I also don't track and not sure if I did I would not use the 15-50 also recommended (and perhaps better.) My visits to reline, although frequent are only in 2nd and 3rd and for very short duration with oil not near excessively hot.
SIDE BAR
FREE oil changes are not worth the risk of bringing my car to the dealer and have some newbie mechanic working the oil change bay:
1) Not use lifting pucks and cracking my rocker panels,
2) Using what is easiest for him the "Oh-So-Peachy" brand oil the boss bought in 55 gallon drums from the low coast vendor that meets the GM dexos 1 spec, which is all that is required and is used on 99+% of the cars and trucks they change! The option for my dry sump is to go to the parts department and check out 10 quarts of Mobil 1 and lug those back his oil change service bay!
3) If he just goes by the oil "Volume Estimate" the 4 volume Service Manual says much be checked on the dip stick, he'll overfill. Will he check the level on the dip stick like I do that requires operating the engine for ~10 minutes to get the oil hot, waiting 5 minutes after shutting the engine off to check the dip stick BUT not more than 10 minute or excess oil will drain back to the pan and he'll get a false low reading? Doubt even most C7 certified mechanic do that if they do oil changes at all. They can make much more commission working on a brake job on a truck!
4) If he pulls the lever on that pump handle from the 55 gallon drum OR just pours from the quart bottles in a funnel as he does on the 99+% wet sumps where he changes oil (which is like a bottomless pit under the filler cap) it will overflow the top of the dry sump tank (as there are internal baffles and it takes time for the oil to go around them.) Oh he'll clean the front and sides of the tank BUT as the tank is next to the firewall, very difficult to get spilled oil from the back of the tank. Unfortunately that is where the cabin air filter is located. A number of reports of folks smelling oil after a dealer oil chage that lasts for several weeks (until the oil finally evaporates as the dry sump tank gets hot when driving! Never smelled oil in my C6, 2014 Z51 or my Grand Sport because I pour the oil slowly and put a large rage around the fill opening Just-In-Case!)
I'm only 76, perhaps when I get old I'll let Jiffy Lub change with oil I bring to them and watch!
It's actually 10.5 quarts, but GM decided to reduce the limit to 9.8 to reduce chances of frothing (there was a hold sale for 2014 models until they could supply new dip sticks).
500 mile change is coming up, and I'll likely change it yet again after the first track day, hence stocking up.
It's actually 10.5 quarts, but GM decided to reduce the limit to 9.8 to reduce chances of frothing (there was a hold sale for 2014 models until they could supply new dip sticks).
500 mile change is coming up, and I'll likely change it yet again after the first track day, hence stocking up.
Originally Posted by Patman
Also be careful with the wet sumps too, even though the owner's manual lists 7 quarts, I (and others) have found that when you put in 6 quarts after draining the oil (even after letting it drain 20-30min) it shows up as full on the dipstick. So putting in 7 would show a huge overfill. I don't know why they haven't updated the manual to reflect this, I bet a lot of dealerships are overfilling the wet sump cars.
Been changing oil in cars for ~60 years. Have always followed what it states clearly in the 2014 four volume Service Manual re oil level:
"The following capacities (referring to a table similar to what is in the Owner's Manual) are APPROXIMATE. RECHECK THE FLUID LEVEL AFTER FILLING.
IT'S THE LEVEL THAT IS IMPORTANT NOT SOME OIL CAPACITY IN A TABLE!
THIS IS A CAUTION STATEMEENT IN THE OWNER"S MANUAL: "Do not add too much oil. Oil levels above or below the acceptable operating range shown on the dipstick are harmful to the engine. If you find that you have an oil level above the operating range, i.e., the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. You should drain out the excess oil or limit driving of the vehicle and seek a service professional to remove the excess amount of oil."
The LT1/4/5 are high performance engines and like most have what is referred to as a "Windage Tray." It separates the spinning crank from the oil below in a wet sump where it is more important than in a dry sump which does also have one. Pic below is one but not the one in the C7. If the oil level is excess it can get above the baffle and as the Caution in the owner's manual states "it can cause foaming and engine damage." An article in a performance car magazine also showed without a windage tray they lost a few hp!
RE: The issue with dip sticks in the first LT1. My 2014 Z51 dry sump was built in September 203, one of the early cars. I have done all my own oil changes and because of early posts where the dealer overfilled and oil "burped" out of the dry sump with the crackcase air and dripped on the ground I have always kept my oil half way between the cross hatched marks. In fact it states if the oil level is below the bottom hatch mark add one quart. So half way in the hatched area should be a half quart under the MAX mark. NOTE it says MAX not fill level.) I have always added just over 9 quarts so at least my dip stick was current in my car, Note I do have my car level when I chage oil BUT there is always old oil left in the lines to the dry sump, some in the rocker arm pockets as well as areas in the head and scavenge and oil pumps.
IMO the problem with dealer oil changes is to check the level in a dry sump they have to run the engine to get the oil hot (perhaps 10 minutes at idle.) Then they have to wait 5 minutes after shutting it off to allow oil to drain down from the internal baffles in the dry sump tank. BUT they can not wait more than 10 minutes per the Owner's Manual or excess oil will drain back to the oil pan and give a false low reading! Doubt many that that time!
12-15-2018, 10:01 PM
