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Yes, I'm going thru your thread post by post and finding it very useful. Just now about to tackle the project again. Thanks very much for documenting your original issue and making it available to others. That's what this forum is all about, helping others!
Didn't get a chance to work on it Thurs but Fri I have a friend from the neighborhood that is an electronics tech and owns a '17 C7 coupe. He graciously offered to bring his code reader and expertise and see if it is showing any codes and to help me check out the fuses on the buss system. I'll check the tightness of the battery cable clamps while I'm at it and generally let him look at everything I've done to look for errors. I'll keep everyone posted. Thanks for your interest.
I'm guessing your new battery is weak and/or cable connections are not secure. In any event you should have a good charger on that battery. 10amp charger on a battery that may be about dead is not really sufficient in my opinion. Hit it with 20 or 30 amps for an hour or two. Best of luck and let us know whats happening.
Got my car back on the road with the help of a neighbor and fellow C7 owner who is also an electronics whiz. I should say he got it back on the road as I mostly watched as he pointed out two or three errors that I had made earlier. I had everything hooked up in the proper place but a couple of the cables were misaligned causing less than optimum connectivity from the battery. That's why I had some lights and warning buzzers working but doors wouldn't open and engine wouldn't turn over.
One thing he discovered than myself and first helper missed was the 2nd hole in the anchors in the floor that the hold downs attach to. I didn't have a manual or photo of the darn things and had no idea that 2nd hole was there. When using both holes in the anchors, the 'battery tray mounting studs' (that's the way the parts manual describes the metal arms that connect the battery hold down cross piece to the anchors in the floor), stay in place and you don't have to fight constantly inserting one as the other comes loose. First time around we heated and turned one stud into a 'j' hook instead of the 'c' configuration that's it's supposed to be. That created a problem on our redo but we worked around it. I'm going to order one and have it on hand so if I ever have the battery out again, I can put the correct one back.
After getting everything aligned perfectly, it looked much better and we got good connectivity with the battery and the rest of the system. First thing I did was see if the doors unlatched and they did so I pretty much knew at that point it would start. Got in it and hit the starter button and the sound of that V8 sure sounded good after hearing nothing for a week.
I want to thank my friend and neighbor Bob for all his help and saving me an embarrassing trip with a flatbed to the local Chevy dealer.
And I'm appreciative of everyone's interest in following this thread. Only lesson to be learned which has been said before is to make sure all connections are tight but everything has to line up perfectly in order to achieve that.
Doug
1) Loose connections at the battery (Be sure everything lines up exactly as it was OEM. Sometimes the leads aren't "Square" and there is a loose wire connection and the car hates those.)
Very enjoyable to read a post with a happy ending. Corvette family helped this guy when he needed it most. Especially his neighbor. Good on ya!! We should be proude we helped this fella out.
Glad to hear the good outcome. I have never had a more difficult battery installation in a car in my entire life! But it's worth it. I had the dealer do mine. I'm all thumbs to begin with. It took me hours to put on my Xpipe, and a day and a half the replace my son's brake pads on his Z06. I wouldn't do well as a mechanic.
Vegas is right and I assume you have already changed the FOB batteries and you also may have to put the in the steering column for a few times so it becomes apparent that you can leave them in your pocket !!! Alternate each Fob !!!! I also have changed my Fobs in my 2014 Z-51 about 9 months ago but have never changed my car battery because I drive it so there are no long periods in which it is not driven !!!! Wayne
1) Loose connections at the battery (Be sure everything lines up exactly as it was OEM. Sometimes the leads aren't "Square" and there is a loose wire connection and the car hates those.)
vegas is right and i assume you have already changed the fob batteries and you also may have to put the in the steering column for a few times so it becomes apparent that you can leave them in your pocket !!! Alternate each fob !!!! I also have changed my fobs in my 2014 z-51 about 9 months ago but have never changed my car battery because i drive it so there are no long periods in which it is not driven !!!! Wayne