Keith Richards

I have had this supposedly USA made lift "The Complete Lift" for 13 years and NO issues and works great. I really need to clean my garage!

The Complete Lift link

N4Speed

Thank you all for your input!

I went to the local Direct Lift supplier today and put my AMG on their Pro-Park 8 Plus. Drive through width was great and no need to fold the mirrors, but the 75" outside runway to outside runway was about 1" short, however AMG is my DD and will never go on top. it should work fine for Cali T. They are installing it Thursday. Will report back with pics.

N4Speed

Thank you all for your input. I just couldn't live with 75" outside runway and decided to go with Bendpak HD-9. Small foot print and 82" runway. The ramps are very heavy, I am getting Race Ramps to replace them. Here are couple of pics:

m3incorp

All I can say is Dang.....you have a real nice garage to park some really nice cars.

Ih2lose

Looks great, I have had a lift I purchased at Corvettes of Carlilse back in early 2000. I cant imaging how many times I have cycled it up and down ,My only advise to a new lift owner is TUNE IN when lowering as if you don't have the lock release depressed all the way and one post is not lowering the lift can go off level and the only thing that makes this work safely is that the weight is distributed evenly , once its off balance its a disaster waiting to happen

Mayor111

Im about to start painting my garage and want to get a lift (for winter storage) once Im done. I notice with every picture shown (beautiful garages by the way), that no one has a garage opener for the bay door where their lift is. I have a 2 car garage, with one large door with an opener in the middle...is there a 4-Post lift that is designed for this setup without taking down my opener? I think there is enough width between my wall and the center where my opener's rail is installed...its a pretty wide & deep garage. My ceiling is 10 1/2 ft tall...

N4Speed

If you have enough height, you can keep your current opener. I could have kept mine, but I chose a jack shaft opener for aesthetic. To determine the required height, I was told to add the height of the 2 cars and add another 9"-12".

m3incorp

There are quite a few wall mounted openers being used.....that keeps from eating up your ceiling height.

Trihawk

+1 on a jackshaft opener. Upgrade the door to a nice insulated one and your garage will stay warmer in the winter. You can angle the door rails upward closer to the ceiling to improve the clearance if necessary. Use the plug in the ceiling for a drop down extension cord reel. Nice way to power the battery tender. If your beam is in the way you can do this:

m3incorp

I smiled when I saw that beam in your garage. My garage in Georgia has that same dang beam running across the middle. It made me wonder what the heck the builder was thinking....but putting two single garage doors on an over-sized two car garage makes me forget the beam, as I'm always having to watch out for the dang mirrors; now that is definitely a waste of entrance space that I have going on.

imaposer

Dang! I wouldn't have the guts for that trick.
My support beam runs the other way, the length of the garage. It's over one bay, so I'm limited to putting the lift on the far side. I just scheduled the garage door company to come and put in all new doors, tracks, and openers for both sides. The far side is getting the high lift track and jack shaft opener installed. Shopping for lifts currently. Yeah, I guess I screwed up the timing for getting done before winter started, but hopefully I can get my vette up and my work car under it by New years.

k_arnold

I would say most every picture posted shows a door with a jackshaft opener like mine. The opener is not visible in this bay as it is on the far wall. I had the garage built with the rails run as high as possible to accommodate the lift and it worked out great.

Mike Jesse

Question for the people with the 4 post drive on lifts...…….are they free standing, or bolted to the floor?

N4Speed

My HD-9 is free standing, however, it came with bolts for those who like to bolt them down.

CE_Vetteboy

Free standing, can’t drill into the floor or I’ll risk hitting an in-floor heating pipe!

JohnnyDee

My direct lift has 94" between uprights and 74" from outside edges of runways.

KnightDriveTV

I honesty, the two pad scissor lift is superior to the two post. Don't need the concrete thickness for anchors, doesn't impede door opening, and much more secure to keep the vehicle from falling off. I've had every type of lift there is, in 4 of my shops spanning 20yrs. In the end, the 4post is the easiest to own, easiest to use for a hobbyist and frankly, great for low cars and gets you in the air quick. They don't need anchored (so no concrete issues at all), and you can disassemble and move them. Plus...they're cheap.

If you really get a 4 post with all the "fixin's", you can do a vast majority of work on a 4 post/drive on. Get two of the stands in the pic below and you can lower the 4post and elevate an end...easy as pie. Ideally, I'd have a 4post and a scissor (2 pad, not single center pad which is crap). 2 posts, especially asymmetrical ones rely HEAVILY on the anchor and concrete quality. For a pro shop with good floors they're fine, but I think home garage guys should avoid them at all costs, unless they are getting a pro to install it.

CE_Vetteboy

As far as working on my cars I prefer my Rotary two post asymmetrical lift for accessing virtually all areas of the underside as well as for anything requiring wheel removal. I rarely use my Rotary 4 post it
actually only gets used for storage unless I have a longer term project on the go. The Direct lift pictured in my previous post is strictly for storage in the attached house garage. I’ve never used a scissor type lift.

JCHVMSC

Check out the BendPak HD-7W Rev M - I have 100" drive thru

ZZZorro

Which lift is this please ...? Cost and ceiling height please...? No need for concrete drilling ...?