When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
QuickJack prices sure have went up... less than 2 years ago, I paid $900.00 for my 5000SLX delivered to my house. I purchased directly from QuickJack.
The regular price on these sure seem to have increased, like many thing I suppose. I did however just order an "open box" 5000slx via phone call this morning for $1014 shipped to my door. This is the same price as the refurbished shows online but I got the guy to confirm "open box".
There's lots of good ideas in this thread. I'll glad to have found it. I intend to store mine under my C6.
I added the casters to mine last weekend. I couldn't get the exact ones referenced in the video, so I got something that I thought was nearly identical. They don't seem to roll very well. It's definitely better than sliding around on the frame, but it's not great. Still, I can't complain for ~$15 all in.
I've thought about storing mine under my Corvette, but I'm worried about the effects of heat on the hydraulics and seals. I think I'm just going to go back to my original plan of building a bracket to lean them up against a corner wall in the garage.
I added the casters to mine last weekend. I couldn't get the exact ones referenced in the video, so I got something that I thought was nearly identical. They don't seem to roll very well. It's definitely better than sliding around on the frame, but it's not great. Still, I can't complain for ~$15 all in.
I've thought about storing mine under my Corvette, but I'm worried about the effects of heat on the hydraulics and seals. I think I'm just going to go back to my original plan of building a bracket to lean them up against a corner wall in the garage.
Ah, I didn't think about the heat from the Vette exhaust causing an issue with seals on the QJ. I might do an experiment and check the temp on the cylinders after parking the hot car on top of them for 15-20 min(until exhaust cools). If there's a concern I might store them under my daily driven 2000 Tacoma 4wd(plenty of room under it).
I bought the 5000TL over the holidays, it lifts 3 additional inches over the 5000SLX. The issue im having is the added height means the lift is a bit longer and i cant get the front and rear lifting pucks to completely fit on the lifting blocks. I can get the front puck fully seated but only 3/4 of the rear puck makes me a bit nervous anyone else have a similar experience?
Last edited by S.Curtis; Jan 15, 2022 at 10:27 PM.
I bought the 500TL over the holidays, it lifts 3 additional inches over the 5000SLX. The issue im having is the added height means the lift is a bit longer and i cant get the front and rear lifting pucks to completely fit on the lifting blocks. I can get the front puck fully seated but only 3/4 of the rear puck makes me a bit nervous anyone else have a similar experience?
What is the center to center distance on the your car(I'm assuming a C7)? I have a C6 which has a center to center distance of 38" and what sold me on the 5000SLX is that the center to center distance is less than the TL.
What is the center to center distance on the your car(I'm assuming a C7)? I have a C6 which has a center to center distance of 38" and what sold me on the 5000SLX is that the center to center distance is less than the TL.
I got 37.5 in using a tape measure and just me “eyeballing” it.
I bought the 500TL over the holidays, it lifts 3 additional inches over the 5000SLX. The issue im having is the added height means the lift is a bit longer and i cant get the front and rear lifting pucks to completely fit on the lifting blocks. I can get the front puck fully seated but only 3/4 of the rear puck makes me a bit nervous anyone else have a similar experience?
Here's the thread where C6 folks are talking about this. Puck to puck distance is nearly identical between the C6 and C7 so the problem seems the same.
I bought the 500TL over the holidays, it lifts 3 additional inches over the 5000SLX. The issue im having is the added height means the lift is a bit longer and i cant get the front and rear lifting pucks to completely fit on the lifting blocks. I can get the front puck fully seated but only 3/4 of the rear puck makes me a bit nervous anyone else have a similar experience?
I have the same issues. I think it will be ok but will check it again before lifting the car completely
I added the casters to mine last weekend. I couldn't get the exact ones referenced in the video, so I got something that I thought was nearly identical. They don't seem to roll very well. It's definitely better than sliding around on the frame, but it's not great. Still, I can't complain for ~$15 all in.
I've thought about storing mine under my Corvette, but I'm worried about the effects of heat on the hydraulics and seals. I think I'm just going to go back to my original plan of building a bracket to lean them up against a corner wall in the garage.
QuickJack makes a set of mounts for them, they sell for $60 on their site, but I picked them up on HomeDepot.com for $32 and they work well. Weight rests on the floor and they hold them from moving away from the wall. I even have the supplied moving bars on them. Sorry about the ramps in the left part of the picture lol, don't need them any longer...
If you add casters to the QuickJack can you still use their wall brackets or do the casters push the jack too far away from the wall?
I don't have wheel casters that use the rod through the end joints, but from what I have seen they would still work as the casters make it wider, but not deeper. With them on the wall, there is some flexibility even though the weight is on the floor and the brackets hold it from moving forward. Side aspect of them on my wall is below.
I am going to be using a different caster method that uses ball casters from Harbor Freight (https://www.harborfreight.com/5-8-ei...ing-67067.html) that uses a variation of the Ma-San Garage hack (below the pic) but instead of using wheel casters under the label part of the jack, I will be using four ball casters on the rise bars on both sides to rise it off the ground slightly to move into place under the car easier. I can make a post here for that once I have completed it if anyone wants to try the same. I tested it out using zip ties and so far, so good, will be mounting with tape later this week.
I don't have wheel casters that use the rod through the end joints, but from what I have seen they would still work as the casters make it wider, but not deeper. With them on the wall, there is some flexibility even though the weight is on the floor and the brackets hold it from moving forward. Side aspect of them on my wall is below.
I am going to be using a different caster method that uses ball casters from Harbor Freight (https://www.harborfreight.com/5-8-ei...ing-67067.html) that uses a variation of the Ma-San Garage hack (below the pic) but instead of using wheel casters under the label part of the jack, I will be using four ball casters on the rise bars on both sides to rise it off the ground slightly to move into place under the car easier. I can make a post here for that once I have completed it if anyone wants to try the same. I tested it out using zip ties and so far, so good, will be mounting with tape later this week.
I'm still waiting to receive my QJ but I think I will be wanting to do the ball casters on both ends like you mention. I'm interested in seeing how that works out for you.
I don't have wheel casters that use the rod through the end joints, but from what I have seen they would still work as the casters make it wider, but not deeper. With them on the wall, there is some flexibility even though the weight is on the floor and the brackets hold it from moving forward. Side aspect of them on my wall is below.
I am going to be using a different caster method that uses ball casters from Harbor Freight (https://www.harborfreight.com/5-8-ei...ing-67067.html) that uses a variation of the Ma-San Garage hack (below the pic) but instead of using wheel casters under the label part of the jack, I will be using four ball casters on the rise bars on both sides to rise it off the ground slightly to move into place under the car easier. I can make a post here for that once I have completed it if anyone wants to try the same. I tested it out using zip ties and so far, so good, will be mounting with tape later this week.
The modification works great! Couldn't be happier that it's easy to move while they are in the fully lowered position. No more scraping/dragging/hard to move lifts. It brings the bottom off the ground 1/4" so it can be moved around easily under/around the vehicle. I tested it out to ensure it slid under my Vette, and it did with enough clearance to get under the rockers and under the pucks. Easy and cheap hack that I can't believe QJ doesn't do themselves or at least offer. I can create a separate post if the mods want it on its own. I have a few videos below the pictures showing the movement where it raises the platform off the ground when lowered so it moves easily and puts the platform on the ground when raising so safety is not compromised. They also go up against the wall and do not hit the wall when using the QJ mounting hooks. PSA, no frame rails were harmed or damaged during this. DM me with any questions, I would love to help.
The casters are slightly wider than the frame tubes, so I left the outer edge flush. There is still enough surface to grab the tube and not interfere with movement.
These help fill the gap between ball recess and flush mount to the frame tubes
These aren't necessary to make this work, this is an OCD item for me. The casters are sturdy enough to handle this across four of them on each lift, this was a personal preference for me as it adds filler for the tape to adhere to the caster better.
The casters mounted on the outer frame tubes, not the platform that rests on the ground while lifting/lifted. I inserted two 3/8" washers into each caster to fill the gap and add further stability, then added a strip of Gorilla tape to the caster mount and trimmed it to form the caster mount. The casters were then mounted on the frame tubes the specific distances depending on the end. I used rubbing alcohol to clean off any oil or residue prior to applying the mounting tape.
On the polyurethane wheel side, they are 5+ from the lift joint closest to the hydraulic tube where the short hose is attached
On the label side, they are 6" from the end lift joint under the labels Left is caster as it comes, right is with 2 3/8" washers added to flush up the gap prior to mounting With Gorilla tape applied, trimmed to form Left one for perspective, right side with casters mounted on the underside outer frame tubes Left one for perspective, right side with casters mounted 5" from the upper joint nearest the cylinder Left one for perpective, right side with casters mounted 6" from the upper joint nearest the label Lift lowered onto casters (wheel end) Lift lowered onto casters (label end) Lift raised off casters (wheel end) Lift raised off casters (label end)
Last edited by Todd McMullen; Feb 17, 2022 at 11:20 AM.
The modification works great! Couldn't be happier that it's easy to move while they are in the fully lowered position. No more scraping/dragging/hard to move lifts. It brings the bottom off the ground 1/4" so it can be moved around easily under/around the vehicle. I tested it out to ensure it slid under my Vette, and it did with enough clearance to get under the rockers and under the pucks. Easy and cheap hack that I can't believe QJ doesn't do themselves or at least offer. I can create a separate post if the mods want it on its own. I have a few videos below the pictures showing the movement where it raises the platform off the ground when lowered so it moves easily and puts the platform on the ground when raising so safety is not compromised. They also go up against the wall and do not hit the wall when using the QJ mounting hooks. PSA, no frame rails were harmed or damaged during this. DM me with any questions, I would love to help.
Thank you for posting your experience with this. I really appreciate the details. This looks to be by far the best way to add wheels.
Thank you for posting your experience with this. I really appreciate the details. This looks to be by far the best way to add wheels.
Glad to help! I saw several different caster methods out there in this forum and YouTube, figured I would make my own variation of it based on what I could find for parts and simplicity. Plus, it's cheap too! Casters are $1 each, the tape $7 and the washers $5. ~$20 and some time spent isn't too bad, and it works so far.
Glad to help! I saw several different caster methods out there in this forum and YouTube, figured I would make my own variation of it based on what I could find for parts and simplicity. Plus, it's cheap too! Casters are $1 each, the tape $7 and the washers $5. ~$20 and some time spent isn't too bad, and it works so far.
Just curious about the need for the washers, since they aren't connected to the casters. Did you try mounting without?
Just curious about the need for the washers, since they aren't connected to the casters. Did you try mounting without?
They are sturdy enough given the weight of the lifts across four casters, that is personal preference. I did mount them without during my testing of them, they didn't have issues. It's an OCD thing for me, just felt like I was adding extra stability and does add a filler for the tape to stick to the caster better.
Good call on that, I will modify my post to call that out.
Last edited by Todd McMullen; Feb 17, 2022 at 11:21 AM.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.