I'm starting to have an intermittent issue where the driver side door doesn't want to open when I press the button to get out. It clicks and opens partially, but then I have to hit the button one or two more times to get the door open. It's 2019 stingray still under warranty. I will take it to the dealer but I know they won't address it unless they can reproduce the issue. Just wondering if this happened to anyone else. There is never an issue on the passenger side door. It also doesn't do it as frequently from the outside pad entering the car.

 

Don't waste your time going to the dealer. It's operator error. I've had the same thing happen to me on a few occasions. When you push the button and unlock the door if you do not completely open the door to where the door is away from the body, the latch will close and half lock the door. You then try to push the button again and it thinks the door is unlocked. The way to remedy this is when you push the button and you hear it unlock open the door far enough away from the body. There's a slight learning curve I still do it every now and then. I have to pull the door shut and completely close it in order to unlock it. Or you can use the manual safety release on the driver side floor.

 

My 2014 door switch was replaced recently under warranty so they can go bad. Make friends with dealer's vette tech, it will pay off in the long run.

 

Try what Punisher44 mentions - could just be the way you are opening the door. Otherwise you may just have to hope it acts up when you go to the dealer.

 

You guys might be on to something and might explain why it doesn't do it from the outside as I am pulling on the door pad to open from the outside. I will try to push on the door at the same time I press the button on the inside to see if that remedies it. I know it's not the switch itself as it definitely makes the click when I press it. Thank you guys!

 

Failure of those switches is a fairly common problem and is cheap/easy to fix yourself. So if your problem continues even after you are more careful about pushing the door open, you don't need to hassle with the dealer over an intermittent problem or spend a bunch of money if out of warranty. The round button switches for C6 Vettes and CTSV coupes are part 20787026, and are available from Amazon for $27. It looks like the C7 buttons aren’t round, so must be a different part number, but I’m sure you could find it too for a similar price. You don’t have to remove the door panel, you just pry the switch bezel out, disconnect the wiring harness, and then pry the switch itself out of the bezel. The whole operation would take an experienced dealer tech about 5 minutes, and depending on level of confidence, shouldn’t be any more than 15 or 20 minutes for most driveway mechanics. YouTube videos like this one for the CTSV coupe show exactly how to do it, and I’m sure there are similar videos for Vettes. .

Some people (including the video above) have reported taking it a step further by prying apart the old switch and cleaning the contacts without needing to buy a new switch, but when I did my CTSV, since it was only $27, I bought a new switch. For grins, after I had installed the new one without doing any damage while prying the bezel out of the door or old switch out of the bezel, I tried taking the old switch apart to clean and have a spare. Unfortunately, I cracked the old switch casing when I tried that, but once inside, the contacts are indeed easily cleanable. So if you are better at prying than I was, you might even get by for zero dollars.

 

The issue is definitely not the switch as it clicks every time but the door seems to catch on the latch as it opens and I have to press the switch again to get it free. Its seems to me that maybe the actuator isn't opening completely or maybe it's slightly misaligned. When it does this the door will actually open maybe an inch or so but not all the way. I have tried pushing a little harder but it won't open until I press the door button again. I'm hoping its not a faulty actuator. My fiancée never has an issues getting out on the passenger side. I'm about to leave for a 780 mile trip to south Florida and I'm hoping I don't have any issues on the trip but I guess I can always pop the hatch and pull the cable release if the door actuator fails completely.

 

Are you saying it works from the outside every time? I know the C6s had an issue where the latch on the driver's door would go after a few years and had to be replaced, but in that case it won't work from both outside and inside.

 

You are probably right, with those symptoms it probably isn’t the switch. However, in the early days of my CTSV’s button failing, it did sometimes have that symptom, namely, a partial door opening. As time went by, it happened more and more often, and shifted from partial opening to no opening or noise of any kind. When that happened, I just pushed it again, and after 3 or 4 tries (or later, 6 or 8 tries) it would open. When I found out that the switch was so cheap, rather than go through a “proper diagnosis”, I just replaced it. The problem went away and has not recurred. All I can figure in my case was that in the early days of failing, when it had one of its intermittent spasms the switch allowed a small flow of current, but it wasn’t enough to allow the actual latch actuator to function properly. As the problem got worse, it didn’t allow any current at all during one of its spasms. That relates somewhat to the question Mad*Max asked. If the problem was in the actuator, you’d think it would happen part of the time from the outside too. In my CTSV’s case, it never failed even once from the outside. Even though the problem was intermittent, 100% of the intermittent occurrences were from the inside.

 

That makes sense. I think it may have happened once from the outside but is happening more often from the inside. I might pop out the switch and measure the resistance when I return from my trip.

 

I'm now back from my trip and its now also doing it from the outside pad so this is going to be actuator related and/or possibly door or latch alignment. Looks like I'm headed to the dealer for this one. I will report the outcome. Thanks for all the suggestions and help guys. Appreciated.

 

OP: Anything from your dealer? I’m having an identical problem, and would like to know how yours resolved.

 

Go with what Punisher says in post #2. Same thing was happening on my 19 Stingray when I first purchased it. You'll get used to it.

 

I haven't had time to get it in to the dealer. I'm hoping to get it in there next week and will update the thread. Now that the weather is warmer it doesn't do it as often so I'm likely to get the "cannot reproduce " from them.

 

I’ve read the entire thread attentively, and tried the solution Punisher offered. It didn’t work for me; there was no change in the way the door operated. I mentioned the issue to my servicing dealer last summer, and the Corvette tech could find nothing wrong. This led me to hope that Punisher was correct; unfortunately, in my case, it didn’t produce a worthwhile result.

Interestingly, my passenger door opens as it should. I can discern a difference in the operation of the two doors.

 

Is yours not working from both inside and outside?

 

Both doors work as they should when opening from the outside. The passenger door opens as it should from inside. My only issue involves opening the driver's door from inside the car.

 

I've also tried Punishers suggestions and no change for me either. At first it only happened from the inside but now also does it from the outside pad. This rules out the switch and the way I'm opening the door as your are basically pulling on the outside pad to open the door. I'm going to guess it's a weak actuator.

 

I've found that over the years on all my C6s and C7s that occasionally it happens when not unlatching and opening assertively will allow the door to semi-relatch, requiring a second push of the button (inside) or pulling of the door pad (outside).

For me, car age has not been a factor, but yours sounds like there may be an actual problem, so taking it to the dealer sooner rather than later will at least document the problem.

 

I should also add a note from my post #13,...I sometimes find that if I try to exit the car too rapidly after hitting the button, it will do what yours is doing as well. If I wait an extra second or two after depressing the button, it's fine. Might just be my car, however.